Parking brake stuck on

[andyturbo2000]

Hi all,
Parking brake stuck on one wheel scoring the disc and producing hell of heat. Turns out the parking brake return (spring loaded) had seized and wasn’t pulling the pads back off the disc. I’ve freed off with a load of lubricant but wondering if anybody else has had this and if there’s a more permanent fix. 2016 Ecoboost

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[K4fxd]

What usually causes a parking brake to stick is lack of use.

 

[Grafanton]

I had this exact problem on my 2015 ecoboost. I replaced the left side parking brake cable. Problem solved. Not a hard job, fairly inexpensive part.
I might have also been able to fix it by taking the parking brake cable off and lubricating it, but choose to go the replacement route.

 

[scorpion143]

I know i am a bit late for some. But hopefully others would see my reply if they face the same issue.

There is a 12mm tension nut in the middle of the handbrake spring on the back of the caliper. When the hadbrake gets accessive pulls, or a pull, in my case it was the car wash guy who yanked it all the way up vertically, the nut gets torqued or tightened with the dirrection of the spring. All you need to do is torque it back a quarter turn, or untill the spring is back to release potition.

When it first happened to me, the e-brake became completly loose, and it felt like the rear brakes were applied and stuck when i start driving, a moment later they felt like they released, i had to get to work, so i took my chances. On the weekend, i stopped by a garage, and the mechanic told me that my handbrake broke, but my brakes are good to continue driving. A few months later, my rear calipers got completly rusted, so i went back, then he tells me the caliper is stuck applying brakes at all times, but it's ok to drive for another 6 months since my pads are at 30%!!!

I always drove manual cars, and I never had to change brakes, ever! So i bought the power stop z26 brake kit, and jacked up the car. I figuered out the handbrake spring nut fix after trying to clean,wd40, and even power steam the spring for 4 hours. Then i saw it on the product image when i was about to order it.

The nut fixed my problem, but since the mechanic said i am at 30% pads, i decided to change the brakes. I removed the rusted caliper to clean it, and i tried everything, even dipping the caliper in vinegar. Big mistake, since i didn't plug the oil input, and contaminted the whole thing with rust and vinegar. It also made it look worst, and didn't really clean it. So i had no choice but to order and replace the rear calipers. Only to find out that the rear pads are more than 50%, and the front are at 70%. Ford OEM brake pads are really good to take on the heat for months, yet not fry. The rotor thickness spec was towards the low end, so i guess they took the beating, but they were still good. I hoestly, didn't feel a difference when i upgraded to the power stop Z26 brakes. So i basically spent 1200$ CAD on brakes i didn't need, on a 3 years old car, having 65,000K on it.

My car is a 2017 Mustang GT.

 

[Grafanton]

I will have to try this. Replacing the parking brake cable on one side of the car did not completely fix the problem. Thanks.

 

[ShadowFox]

My rear left would stay locked, I replaced the caliper, and then decided to replace all the brakes with the power stops.

 

[Gnade]

Had same problem. I just finished disassembling driver side caliper. Took whole piston out. Apparently there was dirt inside the caliper, behind the piston, that was seizing the spring inside. Once I cleaned it with brake cleaner, the spring started moving and now everything works as it should.

The confusing part is that few weeks ago I took car to annual inspection and failed because handbrake efficiency was too low on driver sider. Inspector told that something has to be lose. Logically yes, either something is lose, worn out or seized and because of that not applying pressure. What is weird is that handbrake mechanism was seized upwards position. In that position brake pads should be constantly applying pressure on disc, but they were not. And driver side brake pads should be worn out, but they are totally fine.

Now that I unseized the mechanism, how the f#ck could I have more efficiency when it was already in max position. Even if you adjusted the tension from underneath the car, it doesn't change how much pressure the handbrake applies. It only changes how much you have to pull before you handbrake mechanism on caliper reaches to max.

 

[WItoTX]

Had same problem. I just finished disassembling driver side caliper. Took whole piston out. Apparently there was dirt inside the caliper, behind the piston, that was seizing the spring inside. Once I cleaned it with brake cleaner, the spring started moving and now everything works as it should.

The confusing part is that few weeks ago I took car to annual inspection and failed because handbrake efficiency was too low on driver sider. Inspector told that something has to be lose. Logically yes, either something is lose, worn out or seized and because of that not applying pressure. What is weird is that handbrake mechanism was seized upwards position. In that position brake pads should be constantly applying pressure on disc, but they were not. And driver side brake pads should be worn out, but they are totally fine.

Now that I unseized the mechanism, how the f#ck could I have more efficiency when it was already in max position. Even if you adjusted the tension from underneath the car, it doesn't change how much pressure the handbrake applies. It only changes how much you have to pull before you handbrake mechanism on caliper reaches to max.

Because your parking brake is a shoe and drum. Not the pads and rotors.

Also, what a crap experience to have to deal with some inspector checking a parking brake. Just leave it in gear and it's fine. So glad our inspection here isn't that crazy!

 

[Gnade]

Because your parking brake is a shoe and drum. Not the pads and rotors.

Also, what a crap experience to have to deal with some inspector checking a parking brake. Just leave it in gear and it's fine. So glad our inspection here isn't that crazy!

Wait, what... Shoe and drum, on 2016 Ecoboost...trolling?

 

[WItoTX]

Wait, what... Shoe and drum, on 2016 Ecoboost...trolling?

https://parts.levittownfordparts.co...aFIZ5V6PDRAs4HAPtFfuP_SXPLs-TlgHur5I3CS5SAj2z

Your parking brake is still a shoe and drum.

 

[VoR]

Wait, what... Shoe and drum, on 2016 Ecoboost...trolling?

The shoes are inside the rotor (the drum) on the inside of the rotor

 

[raptor17GT]

https://parts.levittownfordparts.co...aFIZ5V6PDRAs4HAPtFfuP_SXPLs-TlgHur5I3CS5SAj2z

Your parking brake is still a shoe and drum.

The eco boost has a drum and shoe setup on a disc brake....

 

[WItoTX]

The eco boost has a drum and shoe setup on a disc brake....

It has both. All S550s do.

 

[raptor17GT]

It has both. All S550s do.

My GT doesn't have a drum and shoe setup, it has handbrake mechanism built into the rear single piston caliper.

 

[D Bergstrom]

https://parts.levittownfordparts.co...aFIZ5V6PDRAs4HAPtFfuP_SXPLs-TlgHur5I3CS5SAj2z

Your parking brake is still a shoe and drum.

GT350 has a shoe and drum, which appears to be what the link you posted is depicting. GT’s and Ecoboost’s do not have shoes and drums, ebrake is part of the single piston rear caliper.

https://parts.levittownfordparts.co...--gt-premium--5-0l-v8-gas/brakes--rear-brakes

Doug

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