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Overheating… again

WildHorse

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Just tossing ideas now.. maybe a coolant hose is partially collapsing. Is there a drastic difference between the upper/lower rad hose at operating temps ?
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tdstuart

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Just tossing ideas now.. maybe a coolant hose is partially collapsing. Is there a drastic difference between the upper/lower rad hose at operating temps ?
Idk how a hose would collapse since it’s being pressurized. But I’ll check if i can tell if there is a temp difference between upper and lower
 
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Does your radiator have the proper "boxing"? There's a rubber flap that seals to the bottom of the rad that can get out of place and let air bypass the rad. The correct orientation is rolled up and making contact with the front of the radiator, not touching the bottom.
This is the same radiator I had when it was running fine. But I can check.
 

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What brand thermostat is in it?
 
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GregO

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Doesn’t seem to have fixed the issue. Did a 15 min drive and it got up to 217 CHT and 207 Coolant temps
You know my thoughts.
Time to try another approach.
Last motor with the leaking MMR fitting stayed cool, correct ?

As I mentioned before the FP pump has merit.
 
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You know my thoughts.
Time to try another approach.
Last motor with the leaking MMR fitting stayed cool, correct ?
Ya when it leaked it leaked bad but it looked like most of the time it wasn’t leaking. But ya after fixing the expansion tank it stayed nice and cool.
 

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sorry to here you troubles , as someone who is building there first gen2 coyote I’m very interested in the cause.


on a side note. I decided against using head cooling mod , through trying to find a clear factual reason to do so. I Only found lot of he say she say stuff. No data. Also lots of guys running big power and NO cooling modo and no probs. A few I DM’ed to get some help On what other stuff they were and were not running. Thanks.

Our Australian V8 supercar series are running the new gen3 motors.
Pics And video of them dyno tuning ( engine dyno) them etc and clearly , as seen in this video there is NO cooling mods on the rear of the heads.
so that in its self was enough to leave mine stock. If they don’t run it , and they are doing all day bathurst style racing that’s a good enough reason to believe ford designed the cooling system very well. And as stated using almost all of the shelf parts to keep cost low.
probably even using the GT350 pump previously posted.. with its much greater flow rate.
for people who don’t know , Bathurst is our premier V8 race event. 1000kms ( 621 miles) up over a mountain and around a mountain. singing at 8000 all day , I’m sure if the mod was needed these guys would use it on one of the world hardest tests on cars , and…. One of the worlds best public road tracks.

sorry for the thread hijack OP. 🙏

cheers

Tim.

up close dyno video. Clear to see welsh plugs untouched.



 
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Ya when it leaked it leaked bad but it looked like most of the time it wasn’t leaking. But ya after fixing the expansion tank it stayed nice and cool.
Can you reach the crossover AN fitting to slightly unseat and purge out the hose ?
 
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tdstuart

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Can you reach the crossover AN fitting to slightly unseat and purge out the hose ?
No you cant even see them let alone get a wrench on it. Maybe if I went under the car but definitely not from the engine bay.
 
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Also I let the car sit with the A/C off and temps went from 214 during driving to 194 (189 ECT) idling holding strong. So this leads me to believe that the cooling system is able to support and cool the car down at idle, but for some reason is struggling while driving. I think I'll try idling it with the a/c and see if that affects things. I know when testing previously the heater would also hold the cht at 194 while idling.

I touched the coolant hoses (top and bottom rad) and couldn't tell much of a difference. They were both really hot, maybe the top was a little more hot? When I get back to my house I have a thermal gun that should be able to give me a semi-accurate reading.
 

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No you cant even see them let alone get a wrench on it. Maybe if I went under the car but definitely not from the engine bay.
Do you have an Infrared Temperature gun to spot check the cooling system.
I’d be interested to know the MMR crossover hose temperature compared to other spot checks.

Edit; you just answered my IR Temp gun question as I posted …. LOL
 
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ice445

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Also I let the car sit with the A/C off and temps went from 214 during driving to 194 (189 ECT) idling holding strong. So this leads me to believe that the cooling system is able to support and cool the car down at idle, but for some reason is struggling while driving. I think I'll try idling it with the a/c and see if that affects things. I know when testing previously the heater would also hold the cht at 194 while idling.

I touched the coolant hoses (top and bottom rad) and couldn't tell much of a difference. They were both really hot, maybe the top was a little more hot? When I get back to my house I have a thermal gun that should be able to give me a semi-accurate reading.
That means you have an airflow issue usually
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