Oil cooler kit

[Jon17Gt]

Looking good buddy!! Can you please tell me the part number for the U bend? Could you also please show us the parts you've accrued for the oily bits?

Cheers bud, here's a link for hose. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223929639954?var=522672505584

I've bought a Mocal 235 16row oil cooler, 570-TOP21 thermostatic take off plate , and pre made stainless hoses. As i have it all apart i'm fitting new front discs, camber bolts and uprated ARBs front and back and a Mishi coolant tank. Should keep me busy, although just doing a couple of hours here and there , should have her done in a week or so but no rush.

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[Jon17Gt]

 

[Gloucesternige]

All looking good. I am also going for the "home made" set up rather than a kit because I want to ditch the whole casting running down the side of the engine.

Just in case you're not aware... when you fit that stainless braided hose, make sure it cant "rub" anything. It will work it's way through steel bodywork if allowed to rub or vibrate against it. Grommets and good solid mounting are the rule with that stuff.

 

[FMJ]

Looking good so far, I am going to be doing this soon. Out of interest could you also just cap off the two nipples here rather then join them with the u bend?

 

[v8hgt]

Looking good so far, I am going to be doing this soon. Out of interest could you also just cap off the two nipples here rather then join them with the u bend?

possibly. Im assuming that black plastic joiner has some form of restriction within to force some coolant though the oil cooler. Hence joining with the U bend doesn't restrict total flow. Capping may restrict flow. A nicer solution would be replace the black plastic bit with a basic length of pipe joiner with no restrictions. I can't see how the original hose is secured to the plastic bit. It maybe bonded which explains why everyone uses the U bend solution.

 

[Gloucesternige]

possibly. Im assuming that black plastic joiner has some form of restriction within to force some coolant though the oil cooler. Hence joining with the U bend doesn't restrict total flow. Capping may restrict flow. A nicer solution would be replace the black plastic bit with a basic length of pipe joiner with no restrictions. I can't see how the original hose is secured to the plastic bit. It maybe bonded which explains why everyone uses the U bend solution.

You are correct Nick. There is a diverter moulded into the black coupling which forces the coolant to NOT take the easiest path. So, blocking off the passage will restrict flow, which isn't always a bad thing, but not as designed.
I once built a 2.0 Lancia race car and had to restrict the coolant flow to improve cooling, the water was rushing through the radiator so fast it didn't get the chance to cool, but that's not why you called...

Two alternative solutions I am thinking of are to get Forge Motorsport, just round the corner from me to make a one piece silicon hose, or indeed add a pipe to connect the two hoses. My other consideration at this point is this.. Is the hose the strange shape it is purely to allow the location of the oil cooler hoses in the car? If so, could we just fit a straight-ish hose directly between engine and radiator?

Watch this space...

 

[FMJ]

It would be good to see the area that the coolant hose sits in to see if a direct /basically straight piece of silicone would fit.

 

[FMJ]

Cheers bud, here's a link for hose. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223929639954?var=522672505584

Was it the 19mm that fitted? Cheers

 

[Jon17Gt]

Yes, 19mm.

 

[Jon17Gt]

Had a day off yesterday, woohoo, so I finished th install. As I was doing this I changed oil and filter. I had let the engine oil drain out for a day so it had a good change. I refilled with 8.5 litres of oil which brought it up to middle of dipstick mark so I will let it settle for a bit to top it up. So far, no leaks and I'll set up my n gauge to monitor temps along with the standard gauge. Another bonus is that I could easily get to surface rust with waxoyl behind crash bar etc., there wasn't much but feel happy I treated it.

 

[FMJ]

Had a day off yesterday, woohoo, so I finished th install. As I was doing this I changed oil and filter. I had let the engine oil drain out for a day so it had a good change. I refilled with 8.5 litres of oil which brought it up to middle of dipstick mark so I will let it settle for a bit to top it up. So far, no leaks and I'll set up my n gauge to monitor temps along with the standard gauge. Another bonus is that I could easily get to surface rust with waxoyl behind crash bar etc., there wasn't much but feel happy I treated it.

Nice, was there an easy route for the hoses?

 

[Jon17Gt]

I routed them from the take off plate along the same route as the original coolant hoses, under the ARB, under the rad and straight to the cooler. I found this the simplist route and the oil lines don't touch anything.

 

[FMJ]

I routed them from the take off plate along the same route as the original coolant hoses, under the ARB, under the rad and straight to the cooler. I found this the simplist route and the oil lines don't touch anything.

Sounds ideal, I am only asking so many questions as I want to be fully prepared to do mine in one go rather then be surprised by something and have to leave it in pieces while I buy/order things.

I have been a bit delayed by the fact the plates are now out of stock and not expected until mid July sadly. I was hoping to get it done before my warranty ran out but will have to wait.

 

[Jon17Gt]

Really happy with how the install went. I've put a few hundred miles on her now and all temps are normal . I've been putting some old lino under engine bay to check for any leak, none at all .

 

[FAB Cruiser]

Hi guys,

Dumb question, but how do you know the Oil Cooler has gone e.g noise, dash oil pressure light, loss of power? I presume you need to come to a stop instantly.

I'm booked in to get it replaced as a precaution but you never know...

Cheers
David

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