Off to a rough start with 2016 GT

Canuckican · Jan 11, 2025

The P1450 code has not returned (yet) since I lubed the fuel filler flap with some WD40 two months ago. Mind you, I've only had it out maybe a half dozen times and 300 miles since then but at least it's something.

I've been toying with the idea of selling this one and finding a 1968-ish Mustang project car. But I'm torn. With all the effort I've put into this 2016, it's probably one of the least-flawed 2016s out there and I feel I should enjoy just being able to get in it and go. And the price of just a decent roller 1968 Mustang (and just a coupe, not even a fastback) is, well, not quite what I'd fork over for what I'd receive.

However, my wife tells me that I am much more annoying to her when I don't have a large project or two on the go to stop me from pestering her so much. Today's highlight so far has been fixing two misaligned cabinet doors in the ensuite bathroom. Living the life now...

2morrow · Jan 11, 2025

Canuckican said:
The P1450 code has not returned (yet) since I lubed the fuel filler flap with some WD40 two months ago. Mind you, I've only had it out maybe a half dozen times and 300 miles since then but at least it's something.

I've been toying with the idea of selling this one and finding a 1968-ish Mustang project car. But I'm torn. With all the effort I've put into this 2016, it's probably one of the least-flawed 2016s out there and I feel I should enjoy just being able to get in it and go. And the price of just a decent roller 1968 Mustang (and just a coupe, not even a fastback) is, well, not quite what I'd fork over for what I'd receive.

However, my wife tells me that I am much more annoying to her when I don't have a large project or two on the go to stop me from pestering her so much. Today's highlight so far has been fixing two misaligned cabinet doors in the ensuite bathroom. Living the life now...

This is hilarious, my wife can probably relate.

regarding the P1450, have you checked your monitors and if so, are they all back online?

I got rid of my code but trying to the the 02 sensor and 02 Heater monitors back online is proving tricky. I’ve done several drive cycles and still no luck

Hoofer · Jan 12, 2025

Canuckican said:
The P1450 code has not returned (yet) since I lubed the fuel filler flap with some WD40 two months ago. Mind you, I've only had it out maybe a half dozen times and 300 miles since then but at least it's something.

I've been toying with the idea of selling this one and finding a 1968-ish Mustang project car. But I'm torn. With all the effort I've put into this 2016, it's probably one of the least-flawed 2016s out there and I feel I should enjoy just being able to get in it and go. And the price of just a decent roller 1968 Mustang (and just a coupe, not even a fastback) is, well, not quite what I'd fork over for what I'd receive.

However, my wife tells me that I am much more annoying to her when I don't have a large project or two on the go to stop me from pestering her so much. Today's highlight so far has been fixing two misaligned cabinet doors in the ensuite bathroom. Living the life now...

IMHO, if you fully disclose what you’ve found/fixed on that car, you may have a challenge selling it without taking a big hit.

Like, “What’s gonna go wrong next?”

I personally wouldn’t buy it. I think what you’ve done is admirable. However, instead of fixing it, I woulda taken legal action, cut my loses, disclosed what a mess it was, and dumped it from the start.

Canuckican · Jan 12, 2025

Hoofer said:
IMHO, if you fully disclose what you’ve found/fixed on that car, you may have a challenge selling it without taking a big hit.

Like, “What’s gonna go wrong next?”

I personally wouldn’t buy it. I think what you’ve done is admirable. However, instead of fixing it, I woulda taken legal action, cut my loses, disclosed what a mess it was, and dumped it from the start.

Yeah, after talking it over with my wife and kids, this red darling is going to stay in our family as our own version of Charlie Brown's Christmas tree.

I seriously considered the legal action route but ended up deciding that having that kind of battle at the same time as I was dealing with some serious health issues I was having, it was more important to me to put my energy into getting better instead of battling "Mint" Auto Sales in Orlando, Florida. It's hard to fight with people that have no morals, ethics or shame. I don't know how they can even look themselves in the mirror.

Anyway, I think next up for Oliver this summer is a nice set of shiny chrome 18" wheels (yes, I'm old), and a proper DSP and amp. My apologies to those that hate named cars. It's a family democratic tradition. I have a Mustang named Oliver, my previous yellow 2016 GT was named Crisis (i.e. mid-life crisis), and my F150 is called Walter. Why Walter? Not sure but that was what won the vote.

Canuckican · Apr 5, 2025

After a bit of hibernating over the Wisconsin winter, I ventured back out to the workshop to see if P1450 Unable to bleed up fuel tank vacuum has somehow sorted itself out when given time to think about its actions. No joy with that. I have already replaced the vapor canister purge valve / solenoid with both a new aftermarket one and a new OEM one, but no change. I smoke tested the lines and spotted no leaks. I lubricated the fuel filler flap with WD40. And due to the amount of raw gas that was dumped into the emissions systems when using 87 octane on an E85 tune, I have now also replaced the entire vapor canister assembly with the Standard Motor Products CP3633. But after driving it for a few weeks, it still registers a new pending 1450 and retains the permanent 1450 codes.

I'm going to re-do the smoke test and also look hard for lines that may be kinked but not leaking. The only remaining item in this whole EVAP system that may relate to P1450 is the fuel tank pressure sensor and the OEM shop manual I have says the rear subframe has to be dropped to access the sensor, and that's if you can even find a sensor to replace it with because apparently neither Ford nor the aftermarket makes this sensor. So some junkyard diving may be needed. I read somewhere else that it may be possible to replace at least the sensor part and re-use the existing tubes by loosening the gas tank straps to have it down a hair to you can fit your hands above the differential. We'll see.

At least I have the new clutch to go on the AC compressor. The squeaky/grinding noise goes away when I turn on the AC so hopefully I can get away without replacing a whole bunch of AC stuff too. I got a killer deal on a brand new water pump, thermostat and all related hoses so I am going to replace this stuff when I am doing the AC compressor clutch install.

At least the above is plan A.

I do see some evidence of the problem when I run the OBD tests on my scanner. It does show a low reading on one of two. Now to try to decipher exactly what this data is telling me.

K4fxd · Apr 5, 2025

The sensor is, or was available it is part of the EVAP lines from the gas tank.

Canuckican · Apr 6, 2025

I was a bit surprised to see how much a replacement fuel filler pipe costs. Not going to throw that part at this problem unless I prove to myself it is faulty!

I found some great videos on best practices to follow when doing a smoke test to check for EVAP leaks. I have access to a suitable 1 PSI smoke machine but I do have to work out a safe, non-damaging, leak-free way to insert the smoke machine nozzle into the disconnected purge valve hose. One video I watched showed him using an adapter from (I think) a fuel pressure tester kit. Can't say I have one of those lying around but I'll MacGyver something that works.

Another challenge is how to manually close the vapor canister purge valve. I don't have a bidirectional scanner to do this part, but it looks like there is a way using a fused wire to force it into closing by jumping something to ground. I need to sort out exactly what that something is. Or find a bidirectional scan tool that either doesn't break the bank to purchase or one to rent. Yikes, $500+ to buy one, then $1,300 a year for the update subscription! No thanks.

Canuckican · Apr 12, 2025

K4fxd said:
The sensor is, or was available it is part of the EVAP lines from the gas tank.

So far I have not found, or at least recognized, the correct evap lines with the fuel tank pressure sensor in any Ford parts diagram. And having to drop the fuel tank and rear subframe to replace this sensor? No thanks. I saw someone else did it by removing the driveshaft and exhaust and just splicing in the new FTPS instead of replacing the entire evap line assembly. That'd be my plan A, until Oliver solidly punches me right in the face like usual.

But first, it is now warm enough here in NE Wisconsin for me to tackle a few larger jobs. I've been gathering the parts for the last six months.

The AC compressor clutch is squealing a bit louder now so it's top of the replacement list. I hope it's just the AC compressor clutch that's failing and not the entire compressor. I'll know soon enough.

Nine years and 70K miles seems like a decent age/usage for some additional preventative maintenance, especially given what I've gone through so far.

I am replacing the radiator hoses, water pump and thermostat while I am tearing into things.

Also going to disassemble and clean/lube the brake hardware and push (actually pull) through some new brake fluid.

And it's time for the annoying rattle in the center of the dash to be vanquished. I think it's just the GPS antenna I put in there when I swapped out the head unit for one with NAV last summer.

But first I have to relocate all my tools from the heated/insulated single car side of our three car attached garage to the unheated 2.5 car detached garage. Lots more room to move in it. But before that, I have to do this year's taxes for my two daughters. And watch FP3 and quali for the F1 race. And the MotoGP sprint race. And the Masters is on too...

I only wish my yellow 2016 GT (named Crisis) was still here instead of the red 2016 GT Oliver. Yellow ones are hard to find, at least that aren't $5K more than a red or black one.

K4fxd · Apr 12, 2025

@LevittownFordParts

K4fxd · Apr 12, 2025

Looks like NAPA has it

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB227321?gQT=2

Canuckican · Apr 12, 2025

K4fxd said:
Looks like NAPA has it
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB227321?gQT=2

Not sure if this is a universal part or not. That one says it won't fit the 2016 Mustang, rather a 200-2005 Kia Optima. And for sure I had no idea it was $400 for this one sensor! Nice price for less than $5 of metal, rubber tubing and a small board/connector. Mr. P1450 is going to be around for a long time for that price.

I did read somewhere that one from an early 2000s Crown Vic works. Maybe this one. I'll have to do more digging because I really don't like emitting more toxic fumes than I usually emit.

And I'm not done testing either to convince myself that the FTPS is the cause. I still think it's more likely I have a small leak somewhere in the system. The purge valve and evap canister/valve are all new. Just waiting to get ahold of a scanner to close the vent valve to complete the smoke test.

Canuckican · Apr 13, 2025

I figured today was as good a day as any to start the replacement of the AC compressor clutch, water pump, hoses, thermostat, etc. I got off to a decent start, getting the coolant drained without making a mess. Then came removing the stuff in the way to remove the AC compressor clutch and water pump. @#$@#, a very brittle plastic clip on one of the hoses connected to the air inlet tube snapped and those little bundles of joy are a peach to find to replace. This time it's the end circled in red. I suppose after nearly 10 years in a harsh environment like an engine compartment, a certain amount of material fatigue is to be expected. But they still suck trying to find/replace.

I got the rest of that stuff out of the way, time to remove the AC compressor pulley. No sweat, time to dig out my handy-dandy clutch holding tool I have on-hand. Oh, crap. Since I've mainly used it for snowmobile and dune buggy work, I didn't notice how much larger the dowel pins are on it. Hmmm, do I wreck it for use on sleds/buggies by grinding down the pins to fit the Mustang's AC clutch compressor pin size or get one fit for purpose? I decided on the latter, and try to find the hose clips at the same time.

Looks like that's all for today. On to watching the MotoGP race and then the Masters. I got the F1 race watched before I went out to the shop. I won't spoil the results.

All of these radiator hoses are being removed before I proceed with the compressor clutch work any further and replaced with new ones afterward.

LevittownFordParts · Apr 14, 2025

Hi Guys,
Please let me know what we are looking for here and I will be happy to look into it.

@K4fxd Thank you for the tag!

- Benny

K4fxd · Apr 14, 2025

@LevittownFordParts

He needs the EVAP fuel pressure switch. This tells the computer how much pressure is in the fuel tank. I looked it up for mine a couple years ago and it is part of the EVAP lines next to the fuel tank. I tried and cannot find the part number any longer.

The part is very similar to the linked part in an above post.

LevittownFordParts · Apr 14, 2025

K4fxd said:
@LevittownFordParts

He needs the EVAP fuel pressure switch. This tells the computer how much pressure is in the fuel tank. I looked it up for mine a couple years ago and it is part of the EVAP lines next to the fuel tank. I tried and cannot find the part number any longer.

The part is very similar to the linked part in an above post.