Off to a rough start with 2016 GT

[Canuckican]

Thanks,
This appears to be part of the vapor canister https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-vapor-canister-fr3z9d653j

In this image you can barely see the electrical connector
https://www.ecat.dealerconnection.com/images/upload/jpg/PRTIMG/CX25/CX2525-RIT.jpg

- Benny

I did recently replace the entire EVAP canister assembly with this one, that includes the vapor canister vent valve. I think it took a few hard knocks when I first got this Mustang and did not know it had an E85 tune on it. I put regular fuel in it, and it coughed and spit fuel out the exhaust and did not run for several months. That can't have done the evap system any good at all.

I think the part you are pointing to is this vapor canister vent valve, not the fuel tank pressure sensor. Bu I could be 100 percent wrong! My understanding is that the fuel tank pressure sensor is a separate sensor, is part of the fuel vapor tube assembly and is mounted above and ahead of the differential. But that may be old/incorrect information I have encountered in other places. That'd be great if it really is part of the EVAP vapor canister assembly.

Regardless, right now all the radiator hoses, tubes, water pump, thermostat housing, belts, etc are all on the workbench waiting for me to reinstall them. I'm chasing down the right AC compressor clutch holder so I can remove the 10 mm bolt in the center of this clutch, then hopefully the pulley will come out without too much grief. Just getting those 10 year old radiator hoses removed was enough fun for this cowboy today. I'd forgotten how many French swear words I know. It really widens my ability to fully express myself when working on Oliver.

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[fmc_smt]

It looks like it is in the vapor line from the tank to the charcoal canister .

 

[LevittownFordParts]

I did recently replace the entire EVAP canister assembly with this one, that includes the vapor canister vent valve. I think it took a few hard knocks when I first got this Mustang and did not know it had an E85 tune on it. I put regular fuel in it, and it coughed and spit fuel out the exhaust and did not run for several months. That can't have done the evap system any good at all.

I think the part you are pointing to is this vapor canister vent valve, not the fuel tank pressure sensor. Bu I could be 100 percent wrong! My understanding is that the fuel tank pressure sensor is a separate sensor, is part of the fuel vapor tube assembly and is mounted above and ahead of the differential. But that may be old/incorrect information I have encountered in other places. That'd be great if it really is part of the EVAP vapor canister assembly.

Regardless, right now all the radiator hoses, tubes, water pump, thermostat housing, belts, etc are all on the workbench waiting for me to reinstall them. I'm chasing down the right AC compressor clutch holder so I can remove the 10 mm bolt in the center of this clutch, then hopefully the pulley will come out without too much grief. Just getting those 10 year old radiator hoses removed was enough fun for this cowboy today. I'd forgotten how many French swear words I know. It really widens my ability to fully express myself when working on Oliver.

Id like to check the canister part number via your VIN. Your correct that would be a canister vent valve. The Vapor line includes a transducer which might be what were after, I need your VIN for this as there is a split in 2016

Thanks,
Benny

 

[Canuckican]

Id like to check the canister part number via your VIN. Your correct that would be a canister vent valve. The Vapor line includes a transducer which might be what were after, I need your VIN for this as there is a split in 2016

Thanks,
Benny

Benny, DM sent. Thanks!

 

[LevittownFordParts]

Got it, Thank you

 

[Canuckican]

I'm off to not too bad a start at some necessary and preemptive work on the red-headed problem child.

I have the new water pump, thermostat and most new hoses reinstalled, at least the ones that are not in the way of the AC compressor work. I also decided to replace the inlet and outlet hoses on the oil cooler because they are looking a bit worse for wear. Unfortunately they won't arrive until Tuesday.

But geez, is replacing the AC compressor clutch, pulley and coil a treat. The videos and guides I watched/read about this job all mentioned that there is a snap ring that needs to be removed in order to remove the pulley. No problem, I have a very good pair of snap ring pliers. Unfortunately, I discovered they are about 3 inches too long to be used to remove the snap ring on the pulley. I'll grab a shorter pair and give it another go tomorrow. But at least when I was searching for them, I also found my misplaced Tekton 1/4" drive 20-200 inch pound torque wrench I bought a few years ago.

With any luck at all, Oliver with be back on the road next week and much less squealy and grindy than before.

 

[Canuckican]

Some progress has been made, but of course not without Oliver kicking me in the shins and higher at every opportunity. I'm a Tubthumper through and through. You can knock me down but I guarantee I'm getting up and coming back harder.

I did get a shorter set of Irwin snap ring pliers that let me remove the O-ring. Now to remove the pulley using the puller. I have 4 sizes so I was certain one of them would fit, and I was correct. That part is good. The part that wasn't so great was that when the pulley was pulled off, the bearing that was supposed to come along with it remained firmly in place on the core. The challenge is that the bearing is now blocking the three Philips head screws that need to be removed in order to remove the coil, or whatever that almost toilet donut looking ring is called. I had used liberal amounts of various penetrants on all these parts before starting out, but stuck is stuck.

I found nothing I could use to fit in the 1/4 inch gap between the outer part of the bearing and the inner part of the stuck core. Okay, lets try a Dremel with a good metal cutting disk. No good, the stranded wire in the core tore the cutting disk to bits. Alright, let's be extra careful and use the full size Dewalt grinder with a cutoff disk. This worked much better but I could not cut through all the way to the back of the coil, at least not without having a high likelihood of making the situation a whole lot worse. I just kept grinding slots, then using vice grips to bend and break the off. Eventually I removed enough material that I was able to get to the stuck bearing. Break time. Then back at it to patiently and gently tapped the bearing on various spots front and back to break its hold, which finally did happen. Well, that was easy.

I now have the new compressor clutch kit with o-ring installed. I'll put the new compressor belt on tomorrow, as well as button up the rest of the cooling hoses. The new engine oil cooler hoses that were not supposed to arrive at my local Ford dealership until Tuesday actually arrived today. I'll pick those up tomorrow too.

And for the few clips I broke when removing various evap hoses, I was given a Dorman part number for 1/2" clips that are supposed to fit. I got four of them, hopefully they do the job.

I still need to get to that rattle in the dash. Next week. I sure do hope that the squeal that came and went usually when I turned the AC on and off is gone. I'll know soon.

 

[Canuckican]

Everything is reassembled and everything is mostly good. So far, no more noise from the AC compressor. And no coolant leaks either. However, I think I must have an air bubble in the lines somewhere because I am getting no warm air out of the vents even when at full operating temperature. I had the front wheels up on ramps when I was working on it. I thought that generally helps prevent/minimize air locks but I doubt that's always the case. I'll take another look at it after work tomorrow. Time to get presentable for Easter dinner.

Oh, and the 1/2" Dorman clips that are $7 each and supposed to fit the EVAP hoses whose clips are broken? They don't fit, so I reverted to trusty zip ties for now. Duct tape and zip ties, two secret weapons of every handyman. Gotta love Red Green!

 

[Canuckican]

Time to try the magic funnel for burping Oliver. My wife asked if I just tried hugging him and patting him on the roof like he's a big, overgrown, cantankerous ankle-biter. Not, but a BFH has crossed my mind a few times.

<Edit> Well, that was a bust. Neither of the threaded caps included in the kit will thread onto the coolant reservoir in place of the stock cap. Back to the drawing board.

<Edit> I was able to do the burping the old fashioned way and all is well.

 

[Canuckican]

Bah, humbugl

I thought I caught a break thinking the noise coming from the AC compressor was the relatively easily replaced clutch. So, said clutch was replaced. And it did seem better for the next few weeks with very little AC use. However, the noise is back and louder than ever. It only starts making a racket when I turn on the AC. It's like a grindy/squawky/I stubbed my toe noise.

Not being one to half-ass things, I'd be looking at replacing the compressor, condenser, dryer/accumulator (looks like some condensers include this), expansion valve, and who knows what else I am missing on the list. I've been told that if the compressor is going bad, it's foolish to not replace the other parts the compressor damage could have harmed as well. Makes sense to me.

Cold air still comes out, so I don't think anything is leaking. I'm just not sure how to go about doing this work.

I think this is the 50,000 foot view:

1. Take it somewhere to get the system properly discharged.

2. Remove old parts.

3. Install new parts. Do NOT turn on AC until step 4 is done. Maybe don't even install AC compressor belt yet.

4. Take it to an AC shop to have the system flushed and charged.

The timing of the flushing part has me most confused. Does this take place with the old parts in place, after the old parts are removed but before the new ones are installed, after the new parts are installed, or ???

Or take it in to Ford and say "Here's a big pile of money, please fix as much of the AC system as you can with this pile of money." No thanks, I'd rather do without AC.

 

[Canuckican]

Interesting new AC compressor behavior. When I turn on the AC, the clutch engages albeit somewhat noisily. Cold air will come out for maybe 5 to 10 seconds, then the clutch disengages and shuts off.

I am looking in the area for an AC specialist shop to provide me with a professional diagnosis. I have too many other things going on and, more importantly, too little experience repairing car AC systems to tear this apart without knowing my exact target. It's really the flushing part that I'm most concerned about messing up and immediately damaging a shiny new compressor.

I'm told I should stick with a Ford compressor/condenser/drier because other brands are all crap. I have never replaced these so I have zero firsthand knowledge if that's true or not.

 

[Canuckican]

On Feb 2, 2025, I bought the Motorcraft YB3249 A/C compressor clutch from RockAuto for $156.79. I was back on there today looking at other related components and see the price is now $413.79. Ouch! The entire Motorcraft YCC551 compressor is $453.79, which is a relative bargain compared to just the clutch. Maybe I'll give the Four Seasons 168661 compressor a try. Probably not, but geez.

 

[LevittownFordParts]

Interesting new AC compressor behavior. When I turn on the AC, the clutch engages albeit somewhat noisily. Cold air will come out for maybe 5 to 10 seconds, then the clutch disengages and shuts off.

I am looking in the area for an AC specialist shop to provide me with a professional diagnosis. I have too many other things going on and, more importantly, too little experience repairing car AC systems to tear this apart without knowing my exact target. It's really the flushing part that I'm most concerned about messing up and immediately damaging a shiny new compressor.

I'm told I should stick with a Ford compressor/condenser/drier because other brands are all crap. I have never replaced these so I have zero firsthand knowledge if that's true or not.

An over or under-filled A/C system can cause this


- Benny

 

[Canuckican]

An over or under-filled A/C system can cause this


- Benny

Benny, I will be a very happy man if that turns out to be the case. It seems like every time I get to the last item or two on Oliver's (this 2016 GT) to-do list, he says not-so-fast partner. I'm down to this AC problem, resolving the P1450 once and for all, and replacing the cracked driver side mirror. Otherwise, the entire current fix-it list is done.

This car has come such a long way since it was dumped in my driveway in October 2023 (from "Mint" Auto Sales in Orlando, Florida), my daughters would never forgive me if we sold him now. Plus I don't think I could in good conscience do that to a fellow Mustang enthusiast. He's all ours, warts and all. They'd probably be okay with a C4 or RPG or similar send-off done with flair, but not selling him. My oldest daughter takes him out for some exercise several times a week. She says a horse can't stay in the stable all the time. I agree.

 

[LevittownFordParts]

Sounds like the car was in need of an owner that would give it the attention it needed and it found one! I hope the rest gets sorted out soon and you can enjoy driving it.

- Benny

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