MT82-D4 rebuild thread

[shogun32]

The drag strip or road course is the true test. If something is gonna let go, it’ll likely happen when shifting aggressively.

if you're jamming gears on a road-course you're doing it wrong.

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[stang1087]

The drag strip or road course is the true test. If something is gonna let go, it’ll likely happen when shifting aggressively.

The drag strip is where it let go for me. That was a fun drive home...

 

[Unas2k5]

Yes, the D4 is the factory transmission for 18+. Can you share any additional details about your cousin’s transmission damage?

Blake (a tech at Liberty Gears) told me that 650 rwhp is about the limit for any MT82. He strongly recommended a T56 Magnum swap for anyone going boosted and looking for much more than 650 rwhp. It sounds like the gears and in some cases, the input shaft in the MT82 are brittle and can shatter under the right circumstances. That’s why special treatment (cryo treatment and shot peening processes are used to help strengthen the hard parts.

I’ll call him and ask. I don’t want to post anything inaccurate.

 

[NGOT8R]

The drag strip is where it let go for me. That was a fun drive home...

Did you upgrade the clutch while the tranny was out?

 

[stang1087]

Did you upgrade the clutch while the tranny was out?

No since it was warranty work and I'm near stock power levels I left the original clutch in.

 

[Unas2k5]

@NGOT8R Third and mainly 4th lock out. Smells something terrible after the 4th gear lockout. He is running a stock clutch on his 18 and a P1x procharger. Just got off the phone with him.

 

[NGOT8R]

@NGOT8R Third and mainly 4th lock out. Smells something terrible after the 4th gear lockout. He is running a stock clutch on his 18 and a P1x procharger. Just got off the phone with him.

Copy that. It sounds like he may be smelling a cooked clutch.

 

[shogun32]

@NGOT8R Third and mainly 4th lock out. Smells something terrible after the 4th gear lockout. He is running a stock clutch on his 18 and a P1x procharger. Just got off the phone with him.

if the clamping pressure or friction coef is insufficient then the clutch is in a constant state of (partial) slip and get hotter and hotter.

 

[NGOT8R]

I was able to pull the tranny today. Unfortunately, I ended up having to work low to the ground because of the type of tranny jack that I have. I pulled the intake manifold to get to the top two bolts which made it so much easier. I had read that tip from another member’s post about his tranny removal. I’m gonna try and pull the clutch tomorrow, inspect it and get some good pics to post. Here is where I am as of this evening.

 

[Grimreaper]

Interested to see how splitting the case goes. Have heard that just the plastic parts swapped for bronze makes a worthwhile difference in feel during shifts.

Is there any truth to the front bearing being starved for oil on long pulls? Believe is was one of the track forums that posted repeated failures until oil cooler setup with a return that basically fed oil to the front of the trans.

 

[NGOT8R]

Interested to see how splitting the case goes. Have heard that just the plastic parts swapped for bronze makes a worthwhile difference in feel during shifts.

Is there any truth to the front bearing being starved for oil on long pulls? Believe is was one of the track forums that posted repeated failures until oil cooler setup with a return that basically fed oil to the front of the trans.

I’m interested in seeing what’s going on inside the casing. I‘ll be able to confirm whether Ford upgraded shift forks from cast aluminum to metal.

I hadn’t heard about the bearing starvation issue before.

 

[NGOT8R]

Clutch pulled this morning and it appears that things might have come to a halt temporarily until I can source a Torx Plus 55 impact rated bit to remove the flywheel. I have a standard T55, but don’t want to risk damaging the bolts, as the T55 seems to be a little loose.

I did disassemble the clutch as much as I could (most of it is held together with rivets). Here‘s what it looks like. As evidenced in the photos, there are several hot spots on the flywheel and clutch.

 

[NGOT8R]

Upon removing the throwout bearing from bellhousing, it seems to be really wobbly. Can anyone confirm if this is normal? Maybe someone has a new one laying around that they can check to see if it has no wobble, wobble, shaky, shaky? Here’s the part number on the tag that’s attached to it.

One thing I did notice with the clutch was thst every time I depress the clutch and then release it to take off again, I get a chirp. This never was an issue before the clutch was toasted.

 

[shogun32]

you don't "release" the clutch, you slowly EEEEEASE is out. If you're doing the former then the chirp is probably caused by accumulation of prior low-grade "abuse". When the plates suddenly friction up against the disk you get chirp. If your slave/throwout no longer has good control all the way to the end, then that too can suddenly cause the parts to bind and chirp.

 

[NGOT8R]

you don't "release" the clutch, you slowly EEEEEASE is out. If you're doing the former then the chirp is probably caused by accumulation of prior low-grade "abuse". When the plates suddenly friction up against the disk you get chirp. If your slave/throwout no longer has good control all the way to the end, then that too can suddenly cause the parts to bind and chirp.

I see what you’re saying, but I have no instances of low grade abuse with the clutch. I do ease out of it the majority of the time during normal driving. I should have clarified that the chirp occurs during stop light takeoffs and parking lot maneuvers. I do however, quickly release the clutch intentionally on hard launches and quick shifts.

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