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NGOT8R
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- #227
Update: I buttoned up the car today and started it up. So far there are no coolant, tranny or rear main seal leaks. However, there seems to be something going on with the throwout bearing, as I can hear it knocking or clattering until I depress the clutch, at which time it stops. It may work itself out with some driving, but I thought it best to slow down and do a little research to see what I could find out on this. I may take the car out tomorrow on its first test drive though.
Is there anyone here that has experienced this noise and can shed some light on it for me? Thank you.
Here are two videos of the car idling. You can really hear the noise underneath the car.
Is there anyone here that has experienced this noise and can shed some light on it for me? Thank you.
Here are two videos of the car idling. You can really hear the noise underneath the car.
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NGOT8R
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- #228
I took the car out today to test and evaluate the tranny/clutch and all went very well. Gear shifts were firm and crisp. Putting the car into gear did require a little more effort at times after coming to a stop and preparing to take off again. I did not experience any popping out of gear or anything crazy, so I’ll have to say that functionality was very good. Max rpm was only 4K this time out, which I’ll limit it to for at least 500 miles.
Clutch pedal feel is lighter than factory and the release point is about midway through the clutch pedal stroke. Taking off presents a small jerk (presumably due tothe cerametallic clutch disc material), but it’s not a big deal at all. I actually think that over time, I can learn to work around this.
I ended up driving 26 miles round trip to fill up with some E85. About 10 miles into the test drive, I felt the engine begin to misfire intermittently and the check engine light cycled on and off for the remainder of the drive. I also noticed several warnings (Hill Assist, Collision Avoidance, Parking Aid and a couple of others), pop up on the dash. In addition, I lost the gear indicator on the dash, the NAV display locked up and the steering wheel controls became inoperable. I checked codes via my nGauge while at the gas station and discovered the following codes:
P0300 - Multiple cylinder misfires
P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire
P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire
P0307 - Cylinder 7 misfire
I cleared these codes and began the drive home, during which the aforementioned misfiring, dash lights and codes reappeared.
Note: I have not performed a Crank Relearn since replacing the clutch. Lund said I would need to if I received a P0315 code (which I haven’t). Bear in mind that I did replace the crank trigger wheel and sensor when I installed an MMR Billet rear seal plate and seal. I’m sorta thinking I might need to do this anyway. What’s the consensus on that?
Lastly, I’m happy to report that there are no fluid leaks of any kind on the car thus far.
Clutch pedal feel is lighter than factory and the release point is about midway through the clutch pedal stroke. Taking off presents a small jerk (presumably due tothe cerametallic clutch disc material), but it’s not a big deal at all. I actually think that over time, I can learn to work around this.
I ended up driving 26 miles round trip to fill up with some E85. About 10 miles into the test drive, I felt the engine begin to misfire intermittently and the check engine light cycled on and off for the remainder of the drive. I also noticed several warnings (Hill Assist, Collision Avoidance, Parking Aid and a couple of others), pop up on the dash. In addition, I lost the gear indicator on the dash, the NAV display locked up and the steering wheel controls became inoperable. I checked codes via my nGauge while at the gas station and discovered the following codes:
P0300 - Multiple cylinder misfires
P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire
P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire
P0307 - Cylinder 7 misfire
I cleared these codes and began the drive home, during which the aforementioned misfiring, dash lights and codes reappeared.
Note: I have not performed a Crank Relearn since replacing the clutch. Lund said I would need to if I received a P0315 code (which I haven’t). Bear in mind that I did replace the crank trigger wheel and sensor when I installed an MMR Billet rear seal plate and seal. I’m sorta thinking I might need to do this anyway. What’s the consensus on that?
Lastly, I’m happy to report that there are no fluid leaks of any kind on the car thus far.
Scootsmcgreggor
Well-Known Member
With the work done you definitely need to do a misfire monitor relearn. Takes 1min via forscan.
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Scootsmcgreggor
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KAM reset can't hurt and there are a number of anecdotal stories of it helping so I'd do it as well. I've done it a number of times after mods and never had a problem. Seems like one of those "can't hurt and maybe it'll help" scenarios. Changing the clutch changes how the engine responds to certain inputs (inertia related) so I'd say that's also a reason to do a KAM reset too.
Also nice work on rebuilding the trans, really impressed with your attention to detail and dedication. You jumped into the deep end and that deserves some real respect.
Also nice work on rebuilding the trans, really impressed with your attention to detail and dedication. You jumped into the deep end and that deserves some real respect.
Grimreaper
Well-Known Member
Crank relearn is cheap and easy to rule out. I had to on clutch r/r with orginal sensor and trigger wheel. Mmr trigger wheel?
What happened to the trans knock?
What happened to the trans knock?
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NGOT8R
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- #236
Update: I took the car out today and drove it 124 miles. The transmission continues to perform very well. The shifts are still firm and crisp. I must have done ;no less than 100 up shifts and downshifts during the drive, as I picked a route that had stoplights throughout most of it. I recorded a new video today (at ground level), to compare with the initial video in post #227, which captured the knocking noise. The knocking is considerably less noticeable outside of the car after today’s drive. Most of what you hear in the video is the actually the exhaust flowing through the pipes (with a very slight knocking sound in the background).
I really think that this is simply a case of the parts needing to mesh and get acclimated with each other. I expect it to quiet down even more over time. I’m feeling really good about the tranny and clutch after today.
I really think that this is simply a case of the parts needing to mesh and get acclimated with each other. I expect it to quiet down even more over time. I’m feeling really good about the tranny and clutch after today.
Grimreaper
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Very Nice! Sooo the million dollar question.. was it worth it? If the trans died tomorrow, would you go through the efforts again on the replacement?
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NGOT8R
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- #239
If that happened, yes, I probably would rebuild it again. However, if any of the treated parts were damaged, I would not spend the money for Cryo and WPC again. I’m glad I had both services done, but it was definitely a lot of money spent on those two treatments.
To be honest, I’m already nervous about taking it back to the track when I get to that point. I’ve got so much time and money into the build, that it’s hard not to feel that way.
Grimreaper
Well-Known Member
Completely get it. Just need some seat time for the newness to wear off. Maybe hit a puddle or two every now and then. 
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