More stereo upgrade questions!

[moby4dick]

Don’t get me wrong, hearing loss, even partially is really serious, I know that from personal experience, but harshness and forward sounding in a car stereo is not located above 10kHz.
If a car audio system is harsh sounding in 99% of all cases it’s the region between 2 and 7kHz that is too hot. Above 10kHz is mostly the airy sound that some people love as it’s mostly harmonics that are located there.
If people have a good tune, but want it more mellow sounding the solution is not to lower above 10kHz, but put in a slight dip in the response centered around 3kHz with a wide bandwidth.
It’s just like it is.
Maybe ask your local tuners, if there are any, what the reason for harsh sounding car systems is:
My bet is that they’ll answer as i did.

You could even measure this like a lot of people already did. It‘s not that this is anything new. Just google Fletcher Monsoon Curve which is one of the explanations for this phenomenon.

FYI it’s Fletcher Munson. Monsoons just over saturate a broad range.

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[Bassackwards]

That's how most do it. Just drop a new wire down from the bottom of the A-pillar. Don't alter the wiring in the door, you may want a 3-way system in the future. Use the HRN-AR-F03 harness to make your connections with the factory plugs. Here's a wiring diagram that shows which plugs go where:

Out of curiosity why did you use a cat6 cable with ends installed then add RCA ends to that instead of just splicing a long 4 channel RCA directly to the black AF03 harness connector?

 

[StangTime]

Out of curiosity why did you use a cat6 cable with ends installed then add RCA ends to that instead of just splicing a long 4 channel RCA directly to the black AF03 harness connector?

4 channel RCA's are much bulkier and costlier than STP network cable. Even more bulky if the RCA is twisted pair (most are not). The network cable has double shielding and is better for noise rejection. But if you can get twisted pair RCA at a good price then go for it.

 

[Bassackwards]

@StangTime

Or anyone else that has made this journey before me!

I have my new AR-F03 laying on my desk.

If I plan to use the 4 speaker connections in the gray harness is there anything in the brown one that I need?

I see:
LF tweeter
RF tweeter
Center ch
blue/yellow stripe that I presume is the 6v turn on
yellow that may be power--has an inline fuse
Black that may be ground

I'm going to run Alpine R-S 6.5 separates with the woofer in the bottom and the Alpine filter inline to the tweeters in the A pillars

 

[Bassackwards]

My first attempt at mating the black connector to the rca cable

 

[Bassackwards]

On the brown connector, I don't have any connections to make. I'm wondering if I can use the yellow, black, and the blue/grn stripe to tie in a
NVX XTRI1 Remote Turn On Module/Trigger if I need it?

 

[StangTime]

My first attempt at mating the black connector to the rca cable

Looks good. I would twist the wire pairs.

 

[StangTime]

On the brown connector, I don't have any connections to make. I'm wondering if I can use the yellow, black, and the blue/grn stripe to tie in a
NVX XTRI1 Remote Turn On Module/Trigger if I need it?

Your amp probably won't turn on with a 6V signal. Most do not. So using a trigger/delay module is a good idea. Brown connector Pin 1 (audio enable) and power and ground would go to the trigger device.

 

[Bassackwards]

Your amp probably won't turn on with a 6V signal. Most do not. So using a trigger/delay module is a good idea. Brown connector Pin 1 (audio enable) and power and ground would go to the trigger device.

Thanks for the info! I'll definitely twist those pairs.

Am I correct in guessing that the yellow wire in the brown connector is a 12v+ and the black is a ground? The blue/stripe a 6V amp on signal?

 

[StangTime]

Thanks for the info! I'll definitely twist those pairs.

Am I correct in guessing that the yellow wire in the brown connector is a 12v+ and the black is a ground? The blue/stripe a 6V amp on signal?

Probably. Are they not labeled?

 

[Bassackwards]

Probably. Are they not labeled?

No and I cannot find a AR-FO3 wiring diagram showing them anywhere. The yellow wire has an inline 7.5A fuse and the black is a heavy gauge similar to the yellow one.

UPDATEI I found the yellow and the black on the FR DSR1 diagram. I am correct

 

[StangTime]

No and I cannot find a AR-FO3 wiring diagram showing them anywhere. The yellow wire has an inline 7.5A fuse and the black is a heavy gauge similar to the yellow one.

Yellow must be +12V (Pins 17,18) and black is ground (Pins 11,12).

 

[Bassackwards]

Making some progress

It’s dark but here it is in the trunk

Hinged tha amp so that I can see the controls

 

[Cathul]

Put some deadener inside the spare tire area. You will recognise that. It's like a giant tin can without some deadener.

 

[Evolvd]

Put some deadener inside the spare tire area. You will recognise that. It's like a giant tin can without some deadener.

^THIS! Even a little goes a long way.

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