More stereo upgrade questions!

[StangTime]

Another idea:

So I could remove the 3.5" speaker, tie the 6.5" wiring to the 3.5" in the door that would feed the tweeter and add a new 4 channel amp and a iDatalink HRN-AR-FO3 feeding LF, RF, LR, RR and ditch the factory amp? I saw some other diagrams showing how to do this but I didn't save it and now can't find it again.

That doesn't make sense to me if you are removing the factory amp.
What is your plan? 2-way or 3-way speaker setup in the front?

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[Bassackwards]

Most likely 2 way. I guess I could pull new wire to the tweeters since they are in the a pillar and just tuck the factory wires away.

 

[StangTime]

Most likely 2 way. I guess I could pull new wire to the tweeters since they are in the a pillar and just tuck the factory wires away.

That's how most do it. Just drop a new wire down from the bottom of the A-pillar. Don't alter the wiring in the door, you may want a 3-way system in the future. Use the HRN-AR-F03 harness to make your connections with the factory plugs. Here's a wiring diagram that shows which plugs go where:

 

[Bassackwards]

NVM I found it online. Now I'm looking at adding a 6 channel amp.

Buy once Cry once!

 

[StangTime]

NVM I found it online. Now I'm looking at adding a 6 channel amp.

Buy once Cry once!

That's how you do it!

 

[Bassackwards]

I have been unsuccessful in finding a good writeup or diagram for using the AR-FO3 without their module.

Do I need that module?

Can this be done seamlessly without losing any functionality?

 

[StangTime]

I have been unsuccessful in finding a good writeup or diagram for using the AR-FO3 without their module.

Do I need that module?

Can this be done seamlessly without losing any functionality?

Everything you need to know is on the first few posts of this thread: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...o-systems-no-loc-required.159271/post-3244386
The HRN-AR-FO3 is not a T-harness so the OEM amp is removed. In doing so, the backup beeps and warning chimes will play through the speaker in the gauge cluster (from behind the steering wheel). The car detects that the amp is no longer connected to the can-bus and the chimes are re-routed. This isn't a bad thing as it tones them down. However, if you want the chimes played through the stereo you will need a way to keep the power and ground as well as the can-bus signals connected to the OEM amp. In my opinion it's not worth the effort and the chimes coming from the speedo, is perfectly fine. You can hear how this sounds by unplugging the brown connector at the OEM amp. Turn on the car and you will hear the difference. Reconnect the brown plug to return to normal.

 

[Evolvd]

PAC Audio offers a similar pigtail that is 10 feet long to run to your trunk. It also has a jumper with resistors built in to fool the canbus into thinking the stock amp is still connected. This is helpful if you’re using the PAC Audio Amp Pro interface on the B&O system.

That being said, I don’t recall if you have the B&O or the 9-speaker. If you have the B&O system the AF-02 is the proper plug from Maestro. The AF-03 is for the 9 speaker setup.

 

[Bassackwards]

PAC Audio offers a similar pigtail that is 10 feet long to run to your trunk. It also has a jumper with resistors built in to fool the canbus into thinking the stock amp is still connected. This is helpful if you’re using the PAC Audio Amp Pro interface on the B&O system.

That being said, I don’t recall if you have the B&O or the 9-speaker. If you have the B&O system the AF-02 is the proper plug from Maestro. The AF-03 is for the 9 speaker setup.

I have the 9 speaker setup.

So just to be sure, with just the AF-03 and an aftermarket amp and speakers I'll still have hands free phone, Carplay , steering wheel controls, etc? I don't want to lose any of that.

 

[Bassackwards]

Everything you need to know is on the first few posts of this thread: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...o-systems-no-loc-required.159271/post-3244386
The HRN-AR-FO3 is not a T-harness so the OEM amp is removed. In doing so, the backup beeps and warning chimes will play through the speaker in the gauge cluster (from behind the steering wheel). The car detects that the amp is no longer connected to the can-bus and the chimes are re-routed. This isn't a bad thing as it tones them down. However, if you want the chimes played through the stereo you will need a way to keep the power and ground as well as the can-bus signals connected to the OEM amp. In my opinion it's not worth the effort and the chimes coming from the speedo, is perfectly fine. You can hear how this sounds by unplugging the brown connector at the OEM amp. Turn on the car and you will hear the difference. Reconnect the brown plug to return to normal.

found it.

 

[Evolvd]

I have the 9 speaker setup.

So just to be sure, with just the AF-03 and an aftermarket amp and speakers I'll still have hands free phone, Carplay , steering wheel controls, etc? I don't want to lose any of that.

That is correct. That’s all handled in the head unit or APIM if I’m not mistaken. The only thing you’ll need to figure out is where to pull your signal from.

 

[StangTime]

That is correct. That’s all handled in the head unit or APIM if I’m not mistaken. The only thing you’ll need to figure out is where to pull your signal from.

The HRN-AR-FO3 provides a connector to interface with the variable line level outputs from the head unit. @Bassackwards I recommend using Cat5e STP (Shield Twisted Pair) ethernet cable for the signal run. In this and subsequent posts I describe how: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...o-systems-no-loc-required.159271/post-3281374

 

[Bassackwards]

The HRN-AR-FO3 provides a connector to interface with the variable line level outputs from the head unit. @Bassackwards I recommend using Cat5e STP (Shield Twisted Pair) ethernet cable for the signal run. In this and subsequent posts I describe how: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...o-systems-no-loc-required.159271/post-3281374

Thanks I am about to order a whole system. Wish me luck!

 

[StangTime]

Good luck! Waiting to see how it turns out.

 

[Bassackwards]

I hit one more snag. I was working on switching the sub to an RF 12" P2 but I am concerned that my enclosure will be too small. I'm estimating it to be around .7 cf.

I was trying to stay under$200 and find a grill that fits.

Stick with a 12" in a small sealed box or go with a 10"?

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