MMR OPG's

[WildHorse]

between that series of images the cut-outs for the crank key are very different.

Which you should always double check against the factory units. Some 'higher end' ones have been more than a few teeth out.

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[tnk_2]

So what opg is a good one to buy now?

 

[shogun32]

So what opg is a good one to buy now?

the only "safe" answer is Ford, I think.

 

[socketman]

I got my new ford pump and these are the comparisons of the new pump body and gears vs MMR gears in the new pump as well as both crank gears being measured..004 more play on the crank with MMR over the factory set. I will update when i get the tss gears.

 

[socketman]

OP thanks for the addt’l images of your gear set. I don’t think anyone is calling you a liar at all. We’re just asking for additional info to support the thread topic and concerns.

OPG’s are one of the most important upgrades for the Coyotes, so the discussion is just as equally important. Any factual testing of the metals or gear sets is also a plus for those wanting to know more.

—-
I don’t’ know anything about MMR and “Gavin” as you stated in your follow up post, so I’m staying out of that part of the discussion.

——

So are there varied versions of the MMR Coyote oil pump gear sets out there? I’m seeing online images where the gear sets look different. Some appear to have etched laser logos (and what appears to be a dull composition) as well other images with stamped logos and a higher quality advertised “billet” surface as the example pics show:

Look at the logos and surface quality when making these pics really large:

Supposed “billet” quality and in these images you can see what appears to be a MMR part or serial #:

I bought a spoiler on line and said it came with 3m tape. When i got it the tape was marked "mmm" so yeah the chinese are devious thieving conniving bastards.

 

[Cobra Jet]

the only "safe" answer is Ford, I think.

With that said, would this be the correct link and part within for others seeking to purchase the Ford Performance OPG set?

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6600-M50A
image of the FP OPG set:

 

[socketman]

Heres a link to the complete pump in canada plus shipping.

https://www.eastgatefordpartscanada.ca/p-gerotor-oil-pump-steel-50l-cj-m660050cj


Just the gears https://www.eastgatefordpartscanada.ca/p-50l-52l-billet-steel-gerotor-oil-pump-gear-set-m6600m50a

Not sure how the pump case is worth another 500

the price of the gears is right on par with tss . Hope the TSS pass the test

 

[Cobra Jet]

TSS website for those seeking direct contact and info:
http://trianglespeedshop.com/parts-services/

 

[shogun32]

.004 more play on the crank with MMR

I can't make out the markings on the brass shims. What was the factory value? How hard/easy was it to slip the Ford part onto the shaft and the keyway? What is the diameter of the shaft?

 

[socketman]

I can't make out the markings on the brass shims. What was the factory value? How hard/easy was it to slip the Ford part onto the shaft and the keyway? What is the diameter of the shaft?

MMR gear on crank was .012 and the Ford Gear was .008 .The two gerotor gears are going to touch but i mean its the oil pump shouldnt be any metal to metal with all the oil.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Just an FYI to general audience reading this very informative thread and may be new to the Ford Mod Motor World and 5.0 Coyote (thanks to @socketman for starting the thread) - the stock OPG should be a consideration for upgrading and here’s a good article covering the “why” of OPG failures:
https://lmengines.com/pages/why-mod-motor-oil-pump-gears-and-timing-components-fail

Notes:
If the car is used hard or is more dedicated to track use (drag racing, road racing or auto-x), where the car sees excessive and sustained high RPM’s, the stock OPG should be upgraded no doubt.

If the car is hardly used, or may just be a daily, a highway runner or grocery go-getter, the Ford OPGs will usually suffice for many miles/years as designed.

 

[socketman]

Just an FYI to general audience reading this very informative thread (thanks to @socketman for starting the thread) - those who are new to the Ford Mod Motor 5.0 Coyote and wondering why the stock OPG should be a consideration for upgrading, here’s a good article covering the “why” of OPG failures:
https://lmengines.com/pages/why-mod-motor-oil-pump-gears-and-timing-components-fail

Notes:
If the car is used hard or is more dedicated to track use (drag racing, road racing or auto-x), where the car sees excessive and sustained high RPM’s, the stock OPG should be upgraded no doubt.

If the car is hardly used, or may just be a daily, a highway runner or grocery go-getter, the Ford OPGs will usually suffice for many miles/years as designed.

All true but if your anything like me (unlucky) it would drive me nuts not taking care of it. Also i have seen the carnage when shit breaks and its not nice especially if the crank gear fails and pistons meet valves.

I started this thread because i want to help people do it right the first time. I of all people should know better after 40 yrs and all details must be observed.

 

[shogun32]

MMR gear on crank was .012 and the Ford Gear was .008

yikes. That's WAY worse than a class 1 fit which is 0.0012-0.0055 and considered damn loose.

I hold better than 0.004" tolerance on my cheap-shit Chinese 9" lathe with manual dials and cheap-ass insert tooling and brazed HSS cutters !! And I'm not a trained machinist nor have commercial experience.

So if gear tip to hump is supposed to be 0.004, all you need for the metal surfaces to crash into each other is the crank gear to move just part of the way in it's slop. No wonder these things get beat up!

A *roughing* pass on an EDM can achieve +/- 0.001” and a clean-up can get to 1/2 that and if you're REALLY precise you can halve that again.

I want to see a quote for making the inner gear bore a class 2 fit. Geezus Ford, who's running your tolerancing standards over there? Are your manufacturing facilities run by high school dropouts who think CNC machining is woodshop? Are monkeys from northern Burma chiseling these gears out of bar stock?

Seriously, WTF?!?!?

 

[socketman]

yikes. That's WAY worse than a class 1 fit which is 0.0012-0.0055 and considered damn loose.

I hold better than 0.004" tolerance on my cheap-shit Chinese 9" lathe with manual dials and cheap-ass insert tooling and brazed HSS cutters !! And I'm not a trained machinist nor have commercial experience.

So if gear tip to hump is supposed to be 0.004, all you need for the metal surfaces to crash into each other is the crank gear to move just part of the way in it's slop. No wonder these things get beat up!

A *roughing* pass on an EDM can achieve +/- 0.001” and a clean-up can get to 1/2 that and if you're REALLY precise you can halve that again.

I want to see a quote for making the inner gear bore a class 2 fit. Geezus Ford, who's running your tolerancing standards over there? Are your manufacturing facilities run by high school dropouts who think CNC machining is woodshop? Are monkeys from northern Burma chiseling these gears out of bar stock?

Seriously, WTF?!?!?

I couldnt agree more. i would think .004 minimum. In my minds eye i can picture the center gear moving around and the outter gear moving in its bore and with these tolerances no way they wont crash. My TSS are enroute going to be an intolerable wait lol

 

[WildHorse]

Ford says .004" +/- .0005" for the 5.0l & 5.2l. Remember, 5w20-5w30 (gen1/2/3), & 5w50 (boss/voodoo) has to slide through there.

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