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socketman

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heh, not too many people use that oil. Somewhere I have the MSDS saved...
Well i do and so do many engine builders especially for break in. Its working for me and until that changes i will continue using it. Someone is using it, my supplier goes through a shit ton of it.
 

50BMG

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In the 100% non-emission controlled Cobra I use Brad Penn/Penn Grade 1 motor oil, usually just straight SAE30 weight. Lots of zinc and other not emission friendly "stuff" in it, so don't even look at a bottle of it when you are anywhere near a catalytic converter... LoL...
I used to use the much cheaper 15W40 diesel oils back when they had the higher zinc content.
I know modern oil is a bit better, but I always personally try and keep the spread between the dual viscosity numbers to a minimum if at all possible. I think you get better performance on both ends of the spectrum that way.

Honestly, since my Mustang will not be anything more than a summer-only car, I've thought about changing the oil in it now to a 10W-30 type when I know the winter is 100% gone here in MI.

I have some very interesting and positive experiences making this same switch in my Dodge Ram pickup (5.7 Hemi) for the warm/summer months that has quite a few engineer friends from the Big 3 here in Detoilet quite baffled.

I've used Fram filter before with no problems either.
Surprisingly, in my wife's Subaru, I HAVE noticed issues in the last 2 oil changes with Mobil 1 filters I have used, and they are supposedly "good quality" filters from what I have read... Could be that flat Boxer engine... LoL... But what an awesome car to change the oil in! I think I can change the oil in that car wearing a tuxedo and not have to pay for dry cleaning afterward.
 
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shogun32

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for the warm/summer months that has quite a few engineer friends from the Big 3 here in Detoilet quite baffled.
at moderate temps you can get away with pretty much anything.
 

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asking cause these engines weren't developed with 5/50 in mind.
the track use owners supplement says to use 5/50 so technically it was developed with 5/50 as intended use case.
 

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the track use owners supplement says to use 5/50 so technically it was developed with 5/50 as intended use case.
Says nothing about that for the 15-17's.
 
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socketman

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Why not ? NOt tryna be a smartass or anything asking cause these engines weren't developed with 5/50 in mind.
I have done a fair amount of testing of oils over the years as these questions arise. I have been wrenching for 40 plus years and i have put a lot of oil outside in different temperatures to see how they behave over the years . Our temps range from -45 to 70c throughout the year.Oil has advanced a lot and engines last a lot longer due to these advancements , plus of course OD transmissions . Oil really isn't about thick and thin it is viscosity that is important. With a supercharged engine i want maximum protection and i keeps thing under control until the car is fully up to temp. As stated ford does recommend 5/50 and the Gt 350 comes with it. I just do what i do and dont try to influence anyone one way or the other except for my customers who drive grocery getters. I dont drive the car in winter or early spring since its black and i am anal LOL. But when i drive it i kick the shit out of it like its meant to be and my oil analysis proves whatever im doing is working.
 

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socketman

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ahhh that explains it.
The whole thread is about OPG's which no one would change on a stock engine at least i wouldn't. Let me say this, there are a lot of people on the web with a lot of opinions and it can get real heated real fast since these people believe they are oil experts and they analyze the shit out of oil and come to conclusions based solely on their opinions. I am not Lake Speed Jr lol just a regular guy and i base my decisions on my experience and listening to people who develop products whether its oil or superchargers etc. Honestly i think you would have to go out of your way to find oil that would fuck your engine up these days.Now my daily driver 25 yr old Stratus that's a different story . But i kept it alive all these years and never plug in unless its -20 and expected drop in temp

shitbox oil.jpg
 

50BMG

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The whole thread is about OPG's which no one would change on a stock engine at least i wouldn't. Let me say this, there are a lot of people on the web with a lot of opinions and it can get real heated real fast since these people believe they are oil experts and they analyze the shit out of oil and come to conclusions based solely on their opinions. I am not Lake Speed Jr lol just a regular guy and i base my decisions on my experience and listening to people who develop products whether its oil or superchargers etc. Honestly i think you would have to go out of your way to find oil that would fuck your engine up these days.Now my daily driver 25 yr old Stratus that's a different story . But i kept it alive all these years and never plug in unless its -20 and expected drop in temp

shitbox oil.jpg
ROTFLMAO...
I agree with you RE: modern oil quality.
So long as there is an SAE and API rating on the can/bottle, the name on the front really doesn't mean too much.
I had a heavy equipment class once (dozers, excavators, loaders, etc...) and we got into the different types of oil additives for different uses. But the overall take was; if the oil is rated by the organizations which dictate their uses, it could be "shitbox" brand and it will probably work fine.
Personally, I try and use a lower ash content oil is about it, so I tend to stear away from Pennzoil brand.
 

50BMG

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at moderate temps you can get away with pretty much anything.
The part that gets me is that on a whim, I changed to a 10w-30 instead of 5w-30 for the summer months and I experienced about a 10% increase in fuel economy...
I've confirmed the MPG difference with testing on the highway and in the city and it's for real.

The only thing I can figure is that the slightly thicker oil sticks to the metal better, and when it's warm outside, the difference in the bottom number doesn't matter much anyway.

In my Cobra, the straight SAE 30 does fine, because even in the winter, it's stored in my heated warehouse anyway, so monthly start-ups don't present a lubrication problem either.
 

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So long as there is an SAE and API rating on the can/bottle, the name on the front really doesn't mean too much.
That's for average mundane driving. That ' will meet' rating won't cover severe duty. Then theres how it breaks down, sludge buildup with extended service, whole bunch of stuff. If you change your oil every 1000 miles, run that sh*tbox brand haha. Another way, after a 30 min track session, get the cheap oil analyzed. You'll be in for a shock haha.
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