Magneride Question/Issue

[2011KonaBlue]

I just installed caster/camber plates on my 22' Gt and now have a fault issue limiting me to 80mph because of a magneride fault. The car has been on magneride specific Steeda springs for a while and never thru a code. The connectors for he magneride both seem to be connected so I am kind of lost here. I did set the alignment caster/camber tool and some toe plates for of course the toe. The only thing that remotely seems like it could cause an issue is the steering wheel is just a little off center, which I can correct pretty easily. The car drives great, just need to center the steering wheel. I am going to pull the wheels again this afternoon to fix the wheel and at hte same time recheck the connections for magneride. Does anyone have any ideas on what may have happened here? I did pull the negative from the battery for a few minutes which cleared it temporarily. Any help would be appreciated.

Sponsored

 

[NGOT8R]

I would venture to say that maybe a strut sensor was/is unplugged or has been damaged. I have a 2019 Bullitt with Magneride on which I recently removed the factory rear shocks and replaced with Viking double adjustable drag shocks. In addition to the Viking shocks, I also installed Shock Delete Engineering sensors that plugged into the Magneride connectors on the car.

A quick first test of the SDE sensors produced the Speed Fault Warning (Limited to 80 MPH). The only way I’ve come up with so far to prevent that Speed Fault Warning is to turn off TC and SC or unplug the nanny plug underneath the hood next to the air box.

 

[TeeLew]

It will either be in the connection (damaged or disconnected) or you damaged the sensor and need to replace it.

 

[2011KonaBlue]

If it was a contest, both of you would have won. It turned out to be a broken sensor on the driver's side, I must have hit it when installing the strut and never noticed it. The MR sensor arm has a molded ball which snaps into a socket on a little rod connected to the control arm. The little plastic ball snapped off. I was also able to fix it stronger than it was. This little piece was molded with a hole through the middle top to bottom. I found a small pem stud that would fit through it and then ground the stud head down slightly to match the shape of the ball. I now had the same plastic ball but improved with a thread stainless shaft. I fit the stud through the hole on the arm and added a nylock nut. It now has an inner steel stud instead of just plastic. I took her for a drive and the message is gone now. I really appreciate the quick responses.

 

[NGOT8R]

Glad you got it fixed without too much trouble. Did you take pics of the fix to post here, in case someone else needs to make the same repair?

 

[GTP]

If it was a contest, both of you would have won. It turned out to be a broken sensor on the driver's side, I must have hit it when installing the strut and never noticed it. The MR sensor arm has a molded ball which snaps into a socket on a little rod connected to the control arm. The little plastic ball snapped off. I was also able to fix it stronger than it was. This little piece was molded with a hole through the middle top to bottom. I found a small pem stud that would fit through it and then ground the stud head down slightly to match the shape of the ball. I now had the same plastic ball but improved with a thread stainless shaft. I fit the stud through the hole on the arm and added a nylock nut. It now has an inner steel stud instead of just plastic. I took her for a drive and the message is gone now. I really appreciate the quick responses.

Dude, okay now you have to post pictures of that fix!

(My suggestion was going to be to inspect the plastic ride height arm. Whenever I do this type of suspension work, I disconnect the battery, and make sure to disconnect the ride height sensor(s) as needed, since they are fragile plastic bits attached to big spring-loaded parts!)

 

[2011KonaBlue]

Unfortunately, I was in a hurry since I had to get done so I could drive to work. I went back and made a crappy Paint image of what I did that may help. Some of you may have never heard of a PEM stud, but basically they are studs that are pressed into sheet metal to provide fastening of parts. These have a very minimal head which worked perfect for inserting it through the broken ball stud. All I had to do was file it a little so it would be flush to the ball. Once the stud was through the ball stud, just drill out the hole on the arm and insert the ball stud with it's new stud. All it's left is to fasten with a nylock nut(hex nut with nylon inside) and all is god.

Sponsored