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BAYoung

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You don't want to spend time figuring out the dsc and how to tune it. And have no place to actually test your changes.

Easy with the chip on the shoulder.

Replace the dampers and try your current vdm like Teelew said. If you want more buy the Steeda, or crack the books on the DSC.
I dont want to? I work 6 days a week, mostly away from home. In a place where it's about to be -26° for the raw temperature. I'd love to if there were more days in a week, or more hours in a day.
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BAYoung

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Dude. -2.3 or more up front or go home. 1.6 is the bare minimum.

I'm sure you can find some autocross nearby.
Im sure i can't. Because i can't. Because I've looked. Denver is 5 to 6 hours away from me. Closest place with a track, autocross, etc.
 

shogun32

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Running that much camber on the street with gt350 fenders is insane.
How you figure? I've been at 2.5 for nearly 4 years. And no I don't destroy my tires. And I only have the standard gt fenders.

You've been on the forum for 3+ years. You might want to do a bit more reading
 

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BAYoung

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How you figure? I've been at 2.5 for nearly 4 years. And no I don't destroy my tires. And I only have the standard gt fenders.

You've been on the forum for 3+ years. You might want to do a bit more reading
I havent touched these forums in 2 and a half years. I sold my last mustang at least 2 years ago. I just got back on yesterday.
 
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BAYoung

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shogun32

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The early gt350 and pp1 magride dampers are woefully lacking in damping. You have to replace them with the big boy ones to get any meaningful benefit.

That said the pp1 dampers work better once the rear suspension is no longer bound up and can articulate with little force. And you flash to the fp/pp2 vdm tune.

But replacing the dampers is the far more productive solution.
 

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The early gt350 and pp1 magride dampers are woefully lacking in damping. You have to replace them with the big boy ones to get any meaningful benefit.

That said the pp1 dampers work better once the rear suspension is no longer bound up and can articulate with little force. And you flash to the fp/pp2 vdm tune.

But replacing the dampers is the far more productive solution.
Am I reading that I may have done something right? Not sure I met the "no longer bound up" part but I do have the fp tune from the magnaride kit...
 

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BAYoung

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Like I said. Post less, read more. 😀😀😀


Just ribbing, ya. I'm guessing your an oil or gas hand.
You were probably joking this whole time. I'm so sorry. I have a difficult time telling jokes from serious. Im sorry.
 

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You were probably joking this whole time. I'm so sorry. I have a difficult time telling jokes from serious. Im sorry.
It's all good. Now if you were tangling with @TeeLew he'd cuss your ass out. 😁
 
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Rodpwnz

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Put the bmr front sp084 or the duals up front. Leave the rears as is or put 800s in.
Thanks for the tip Matt - I'm pretty happy with the comfort of PP1 springs since I daily 95% of the time and casually HDPE couple times a quarter. I wouldn't mind a .5-.75 inch drop and better handling(less floaty too) while I'm already paying a shop to replace the blown front strut, and that's why I am asking about springs.

Why wouldn't I go with Dual Rate rears as well? I'm also contemplating the M-9602-M kit with VDM update despite the price, or even just the M-5300-W springs in that kit alone.

I'd prefer to keep ride height front/back as uniform as possible, so not keen on mixing lowering springs and OEM ride heights. What is your setup? I'm assuming magneride dampers too?
 

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Why wouldn't I go with Dual Rate rears as well?
I don't pick up the keys to an M1 already shod with duals at both ends till this afternoon. So driving impressions inbound. I anticipate the oe going back in on the rears.

But I have had them on my other car (not magride) for a couple years. It's not like they are bad or anything, I just don't think it's the right way forward unless you're on a banking or dealing with nasty tracks like Sebring. Ford has gone backwards on rate and other folks with 1000 rate have also reconsidered.

Imo Steeda should have designed them to have at least an inch+ of the lower rate before transitioning but they didnt. You're almost immediately into the high rate which kinda puts the lie to the "dual"
 

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Yes and they have about twice the damping force as the normal Magneride dampers. The struts match a stiffer spring package in the front with the stock VDM very good, IMO. I bet the rear works well, too, even with the stock rate. It just adds damping everywhere, which is where it needs it.

Changing to the GT500 VDM wouldn't help you because of the damper difference. The struts/sucks are a much bigger deal than the VDM.

Unfortunately, the DSC is about 85% of a great idea.

It was fun and all, but just put Ohlins on it and be done. If you can't get Ohlins, then at least use their spring philosophy instead of Steeda's bullshit.
Dang....put this on the list of things I didn't expect to read this morning.

Also, when my next shock goes out, I am going coil overs and and delete on the magride. The amount of time I've got into the magride now to get the ride dialed, it would have been so much easier to just turn knobs. And I sure AF wouldn't want the Steeda preprogrammed DSC in my car. Two stories I've heard now of the turner not working, and Steeda was either too lazy, or DSC too unresponsive to get the controller fixed in a reasonable timeframe.

In all fairness, I did learn a ton about dampening I would have had to learn with traditional coil overs or with the DSC.
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