Mach1 Open Track & HPDE

[cjatrains]

Regarding shifting, I did not shift with the paddles at Lime Rock this fall. Put it in Track Mode and D mode auto shift. the track is only 1.5 miles with 5 turns and I really wanted to focus on braking, turning in and listening to the Garmin Catalyst coaching.

I was pretty darn impressed with the program or algorithm in the A10, the shifts up and down were fast and it never shifted at a place on the track, that I didn't want it to, ie, during turn in or at the apex. The other cool thing is it feels like it does a sort of rev match on downshifts, so there's no engine braking, or weight shift when it shifts down, at least not noticeable to me.

I did however experience the same symptom Nick talks about with the short shift up around 115 mph, I didn't pay attention to what gear it was, but it could have been 6 to 7 on the front straight at Lime Rock. Rather annoying, and it was doing it consistently every lap. You can see it on the tach gauge on the video coming up toward the start/finish line.

When I took the car to Watkins Glen International in early May 23, 3.45 miles, 11 turns, I used Track Mode, and set the shifter in S mode and shifted with the paddles. I remember having some very odd experiences. It's been 5 months, but I could swear the red line was changing, sometimes it was 7400 RPM and a few times the rev limiter cut in well before that, I'd even say it was cutting out around 6,500... I was like WTF was that.... After a few laps, I just put it in D and let it do it's thing. It didn't happen till Day 2 as the first day was intermittent rain, even had freakin sleet at lunch time, so I don't think I ever got near the red line the first day. Second day we ran the short NASCAR circuit, which takes out the boot. That's when I was having the "moving target red line"...

Didn't really understand what was going on till I got home and read that I wasn't the only person that has had a "variable" red line in S - Track Mode manually shifting on the track...

It's going in for diagnosis end of November.

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[M1N]

I guess I am still learning about the transmission. I have only used it in Track, S mode and let it up and down shift on its own. What I thought was pretty cool was going into turn eight and nine at Willow Springs. You enter turn eight at around 120, let off the gas and when I wanted to slow down going into turn nine, I would just tap the brake and it would downshift to 6th gear, tap it again and downshift to 5th gear. Those particular turns did not require a lot of braking so it was just enough to slow the car down a bit. Now going back into turn one you brake pretty hard and it will downshift three times on its own. The first time out last month I did accidentally put it into manual mode. I was wondering why the car wasn’t shifting. The paddle shifters are so close to the steering wheel you have to be careful.

 

[IanKar]

I was experiencing some harsh gear changes in my A10 at The Ridge WA by Sept this year. It only had 9500 miles on the clock. It was my 11th track day within a year, so it had quite a few harsh sessions.
The dealer changed my transmission oil and filter and they told me it was black. Worse than when they change transmission oil at the regular service mileage. I did one more track day after and it behaved like it should.

I track in S and Track Mode so I agree, the shifters are close and if you bump them, you go straight into manual shift. I get caught a few times wondering why my rev limiter is being hit. And then finish the session using those shifters without bothering to override back to auto. I sometimes select to paddle shift when I get well familiar with the track and my times are not improving. I also managed to engage the performance shift indicator via Forscan.

 

[M1N]

I just noticed that page 348 of the owners manual says to use 5w - 50 motor oil for track use. I need an oil change and have been using 5w - 30. What are you all using?

 

[Knockdown]

I just noticed that page 348 of the owners manual says to use 5w - 50 motor oil for track use. I need an oil change and have been using 5w - 30. What are you all using?

I believe this recommendation is for the 2.3L turbo high output engine. I use 5W-40 during track season as I had a low oil pressure warning once that put the car into limp mode.

 

[Knockdown]

The A10 transmission keeps the revs up nicely but the ECU protects the CHT by limiting the 6-7 shift at 6800 rpm. It will also lower the shift point if it thinks the CHT is getting too warm. The ECT is a calculated value I believe derived from the rate of change of the CHT. I experienced lower shift rpm points at ambient temps as low as 85deg later on in a session.

I mitigated this by removing the bumper cover and sealing up all of the bypass areas around the radiator with silicon rubber sheet and rtv. I also lowered the splash shield in the rear a quarter inch. I have run sessions in the lower 90s without any rpm pull back with these mods.

The video below contains a display of the calculated ECT, the important part is how quickly the ECT recovers.

 

[Charlemagne]

I just noticed that page 348 of the owners manual says to use 5w - 50 motor oil for track use. I need an oil change and have been using 5w - 30. What are you all using?

Track Use chapter in Much 1 supplement doesn't say that. 5W-30 is prescribed for all conditions except for extreme cold climate which has 0W-30 as recommended. As said, 5W-50 is for 2.3L Ecoboost heavy/track use.

 

[M1N]

Thanks! My mistake.

 

[spankybranch]

What are you all using?

5w30 Motorcraft full-syn, with the Motorcraft filter. Manual specifics to change before a track day and after 4 hours of track driving. I don’t count my warmup or cooldown times so it’s about 2 events/days - OLI shows 25-30% when I change.

 

[IanKar]

Good to be back on the track for the 1st time this year. This is my local track so not ideally suited for the Mustang. Best time last year was 1:20.5. Managed to get 1:16.9 this time. Nothing has changed on the Mach1 so not sure why I would shave off 3.6sec? Conditions were about the same except for having my old Cup2's on.

 

[GTP]

... so not sure why I would shave off 3.6sec

Maybe it was just first day enthusiasm!

I like that green/red LED strip of lights above your tach. Can my 2019 digital display do that?

With a clear track, fully automatic works quite well. Did you do any manual shifting on that lap?

Tip for you: If you position your inside camera a little more to the right, then the steering wheel will obscure your 3 center gauges, but your road speed will always be visible. My inside camera is pretty much at the upper right-hand corner of the rear windscreen.

 

[IanKar]

... so not sure why I would shave off 3.6sec

Maybe it was just first day enthusiasm!

I like that green/red LED strip of lights above your tach. Can my 2019 digital display do that?

With a clear track, fully automatic works quite well. Did you do any manual shifting on that lap?

Tip for you: If you position your inside camera a little more to the right, then the steering wheel will obscure your 3 center gauges, but your road speed will always be visible. My inside camera is pretty much at the upper right-hand corner of the rear windscreen.

Hi Philip. Thanks for the comments.
Your 2019 should be able but I had to use Forscan software. I have a detailed post under Performance Shift Indicator A10. Step by step on how to do this.

On that lap I didn't use the paddles. Thanks for the tip. I had the GoPro mounted on my roll bar and will shift it to the right a bit. Pity about the exposure. There was quite a bit of glare from outside. I'll also try and adjust it down next time so that the road is more visible.

 

[GTP]

Do you think the narrow tach at the top is any more useful than the big main one?

My main tach also does not have the tach go green, and then red at redline like yours. Do I need Forscan for that? Do you paddle shift much?

My forward-facing camera has the windshield completely washed out so that it does not display anything outside. I just ordered a Viofo A229 Plus with the 3rd inside camera, which is optimized for night driving. So we'll see if it is any better or worse.

 

[IanKar]

Do you think the narrow tach at the top is any more useful than the big main one?

My main tach also does not have the tach go green, and then red at redline like yours. Do I need Forscan for that? Do you paddle shift much?

My forward-facing camera has the windshield completely washed out so that it does not display anything outside. I just ordered a Viofo A229 Plus with the 3rd inside camera, which is optimized for night driving. So we'll see if it is any better or worse.

I paddle shift quite a bit. I usually do 2 sessions at Auto to get familiar and then switch to paddle shift, because then it gets more interesting. You need the lights to help stop you redlining. The main tach does not change colour as you creep up to redline. I just choose green as my colour. The Performance Shift Indicator helps warn you when you should shift. It has a tone as well but hard to hear above the engine noise. You can also set the limit to where you want it to warn you. I set mine on this day at 6700 rpm. Also when in Track Mode and you are in auto, if you hit the paddles by mistake (it happened a few times with me) it switches to paddle shift.

Here's a better track view of the same lap from my Garmin Catalyst.

 

[GTP]

.... The main tach does not change colour as you creep up to redline. I just choose green as my colour.
...

Do I need Forscan to do that?

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