Looking for 10mm longer studs

[Mattwood440]

Nope. The knurl might be the same but the head is smaller diameter and is not clipped. The smaller head diameter would barely fit over the hub hole and that is not safe.

I went with arp studs 1/2 -20. Knurl on the arp is 15.87 and oem mustang is 15.88.
P/n: (100-7703) thanks to [MENTION=23274]JMan[/MENTION] for the info. pep boys had them for $16 for 5 studs. Came out to $70 for all 20 studs.

They have the same size head as the oem mustang but I clipped the head so it can fit behind the hub when pressed in. You have to use a clipped head on the rear and front in order for the stud to clear the center of the hub/bearing.

After clipping the head use touch up paint so it won't rust. After you can measu how much you need to cut down the length in order to work with your spacers and lugs.

I'm doing this now and I'm confused. What do you mean when you say the smaller head would barely fit over the hub hole? The back of the front hubs look flat to me (I haven't pushed a stud out yet and I'm only doing front). If the hole for the stud is 15.875mm and the head is larger than that, what's the problem?

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[MtnBiker]

To clear the hub bearing . There is an f350 stud that has the same knurl as the stock mustang

Yes - on the rear only. Fronts don't need clipping.

And yes to the F-350 stud if 10mm is all you need. The part number is FCPZ 1107 A. Almost exactly 10mm longer and same knurl as well as shoulder length. The Dorman's shoulder looks too long.

 

[Mattwood440]

Um...the Dorman 610-435 worked fantastic. No modification necessary

 

[Optimum Performance]

The thread is designed to clamp the wheel. Repair studs are usually replaced one at a time as needed. OE's press studs in. 1/2"-20 thread does not take much to pull the thread off the stud, it is actually very fragile. We don't suggest it because it risks the chance of damaging the thread. Other vendors that sell similar kits also recommend pressing them in. It's why We, Ford and many race shops offer pre-assembled hubs. If you inspect the thread after pulling a stud in it has loaded the thread to the point where all the finish is cleaned off on the load side of the thread. This is normally at the point where the nut has to clamp the wheel but by pulling them in you are doing this to a larger area of thread and over time it will cause problems. It shortens the useful life of the thread. Then you are at the track day and change wheels and your lug nut grabs a burr and peels the thread off ruining your expensive weekend.

We offer a solution to the OP's question, have sold several of our kits all over the world and as a Supporter of M6G shared our experience to help the Community here.

 

[scott_0]

I pulled my 15mm longer wheel studs through that came with my Eibach wheel spacer kit, took very little effort at all, ideally, yes Id say a press should be used, but we're talking a thick ass 14mm stud here, you aint hurting it one bit

 

[Epiphany]

The design requirements provided to ALL OEM STUD manufacturers require studs be replaceable on vehicle. No OEM is going to create massive costs to themselves by forcing pulling entire hubs to change a stud. Lawyers and bean counters would kill that in a second.

Most hubs including the S550 are unitized meaning hub bearing is no longer servicable and cold forged in place creating complete assembly. Reason? OEMs dont want any techs spending anytime using freaking presses.

S197 service manual fodder (latest online I could find - S550 is no different), "unitized" hub. Clink on link and scroll down to see the procedure Ford recommends.



http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=730&viewfile=Wheel%20Studs.pdf




I'm curious. When you are pulling a given stud through the hub face (with a nut, etc), what torque value are you using? What is the maximum torque value you are seeing? Are you exceeding the recommended value from Ford on the S550 (135 to 165 lb-ft is the range Ford offers)?












Because if you are past a certain point (an example would be 80% of yield) you have just compromised the fastener. Direct from ARP's catalog...











From your own Manitowoc crane link...

4.2
The max/min values shown as the acceptable range represents the allowable variation in the applied torque.


4.3
Whenever the torque on any fastener combination has been exceeded, the bolt/nut shall be replaced and discarded.

Any backyard mechanic can pull a stud through a hub. Is it the proper or best way to do it? Absolutely not. Does that mean that anyone that has done it this way will die in a fiery crash, flying off a cliff, all due to the nut/stud install method? No. Ford, ARP, and Manitowoc would all prefer that you install and torque a given fastener properly.

If you inspect the thread after pulling a stud in it has loaded the thread to the point where all the finish is cleaned off on the load side of the thread. This is normally at the point where the nut has to clamp the wheel but by pulling them in you are doing this to a larger area of thread and over time it will cause problems. It shortens the useful life of the thread. Then you are at the track day and change wheels and your lug nut grabs a burr and peels the thread off ruining your expensive weekend.

:amen:


Nailed it.

 

[sigintel]

If you exceed recommended torque to seat then you got the wrong knurl or didnt clean up hole from removed stud.
Think about it, why is the knurl there?
Come on guys, the knurl doesnt need to be a 10 ton interference fit.

Whats the helms/ford manual say?

All studs must be lubricated with Mustang 6G exclusive unicorn tears prior to pressing in. Sprinkle with fairy dust to avoid rust.

I tried checking the link but too slow. We believe ya, whats it say?

 

[Epiphany]

The issue is (in addition to potentially damaging the thread faces) that you don't know how much torque you need in order to pull the stud in. I asked you for a figure and you didn't supply one because you simply don't know. Saying that it shouldn't be a problem simply isn't good enough. Permanently elongate the stud even .001", as per ARP, and the stud is trash. You might be under the maximum value or you may not.

The Ford service manual, contrary to your earlier comments, shows this...

 

[scott_0]

while I didnt measure, I can pretty much 100% guarantee, it was no where near 150lb ft

 

[Epiphany]

A reasonable assumption yet without any data. Is it fair to say that in your case, when you were close to seating a given stud, that the amount of torque you imparted was greater than when you were half way? You know, when it starts to get hard and you give it that extra bit just to be sure that you pulled the stud in all the way? Because this is when the potential to exceed 80% of yield typically occurs.

 

[sigintel]

Sweet pics!
Thats from Helms/Ford manual?
tell us more!
A replacement front hub with studs all ready installed is only $45.
Are you saying that Ford corporate has dealers pulling hubs to change a wheel stud?
Cost of caliper bolts and spindle nut plus labor?
That is INSANE to change a $3 wheel stud?

Regarding seating the studs. I'll buy a few spare hubs to test with.
Start thinking what you want measured and anything to test.

Maybe I can get some oversized knurls and try and hit max torque?

Is there a badass logging digital torque wrench?

Now I would agree that if you exceed the max torque for any reason including seating the stud then that stud is trash. Can we all agree on that?
The question is why would you need to exceed the max torque?

You realize you are proposing a Ford lawyer's worst nightmare.
You could be correct, but think about it:
The engineers and corporate service guide developers would have to develop a tire/wheel/hub/lug/stud system where the simplest and most likely method of replacing a stud could lead to damaging that stud.
Why would they design in such risk?
How could that happen?
They would have to intentionally make the interference fit between knurl and hub so tight that it would risk damaging the stud?
What would they accomplish by doing that?
What is the risk if stud knurl is too loose?
The worst case might be that an improperly torqued wheel gets loose and while flopping around the stud gets worked back inboard and causes the head to bind on the hub flange or upright/knuckle/spindle.
So risk of wheel off or wheel locked up?
Ford certainly engineered what classes of interference fit would work and then allowed for manufacturing tolerances.
They take service and manufacturability into account when engineering and I just dont see them leaving themselves so wide open to such stupid simple failure mode of destroying the lug stud being installed.

 

[sigintel]

Not sure this means squat, but Ford dealer tech quoted me the current workshop manual:
"Wheel Studs Removal

NOTE: Wheel studs are not serviceable separately. Wheel bearing and wheel hub assembly must be replaced."

White bear lake or any parts counter can confirm:
All S550 mustang hubs come with studs.

What year/model manual are you finding this wheel stud pressing diagram from?
The diagram looks great but might not be 2016 S550?

Keep in mind, I am not saying either current or old Ford manuals answer the question of whether seating studs with a lug nut will ruin a stud. For me its simple, use a torque wrench set to 150ftlbs. Start seating stud and stop when wrench clicks. Inspect stud head, if not flush then remove stud, check hole for garbage and check stud knurl OD. Clean hole or toss studs and get studs w proper knurl diameter. 0 risk over torque and perfect stud seats.

 

[Niz55]

FRPP has extended arp studs with bearings/hub ready to bolt on and very expensive.

 

[Niz55]

I tested my arp studs and they broke at 650lbs.

 

[Epiphany]

What did you use to show 650 lb-ft?

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