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Longer front wheel studs (deep investigation)

Brigadir

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I want to gather and further discuss technical details regarding the wheel studs. In my case I want to place 10mm spacers, the car is a regular GT. So far I found couple of topics:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/installed-10mm-spacers-and-longer-wheel-studs.56677/
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...isit-and-a-screw-up-for-entertainment.159924/
that describe particular installations, but I'd like to have a general info about available options.

OEM front studs BCPZ-1107-A have these parameters:
Total length: 55.58mm
Under head length: 50.29mm
Shoulder length: 13.76mm
Knurl (shoulder) diameter: 15.88mm
Also I measured the available thread length on the stud when the factory wheel is on (available for lug nut): 20mm, that corresponds to 11 revolutions.

So, assuming that we want to place a 10mm spacer, the ideal new stud should be 10mm longer: 60mm of under head length, assuming that the thread is through all the length. Longer studs may not fit inside the closed lug nuts, shorter studs may compromise the security aspect.

Based on the other posts on mustang6g and across internet there are these typical options:
Dorman 610-435 - M14-1.50 Serrated Wheel Stud - 15.96mm Knurl, 57.94mm Length, +7mm thread length <- a little bit short, but good price
Dorman 610-631 - M14-1.50 Serrated Wheel Stud - 15.90mm Knurl, 77.21mm Length, +22mm thread length <- expensive, positioned for GT350/500
Ford FCPZ 1107 A - OEM for an F-350, M14 1.5, the same knurl size, +10mm length <- OEM replacement, available on eBay, cheap

Worth to point out that a stud with large head doesn't fit because of ABS ring. That's why Dorman 610-631 has cut off head on one side and Dorman 610-435 has small head.

At this point what I'd like to discuss - the other options for studs. If we go to Dorman site: https://www.dormanproducts.com/gsea...c=Metric&Thread Size=M14-1.50&start=0&num=100
there's a lot M14-1.50 serrated studs with the length for any use-case. For my case I'd pick 610-004 over 610-435 since it has 59.77mm length, or 610-783 of 63.6mm length. And if I'd like wider spacers, there are plenty of options for longer studs.

What's interesting to me so far - the material strength (bolt grade). Dorman 610-631 for GT350/500 is of grade 10.9 - we assume it's the perfect choice. 610-435 doesn't have info regarding the grade on the website, 610-004 has grade 8, and 610-783 has grade 10.9. So in this aspect 610-783 is the preferred option (and the price on Amazon is just $80 for 10 studs).

Interesting if anyone has more info or expert opinion on this topic, will be glad to hear that.
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NightmareMoon

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ARP makes 1/2” longer studs. That’s 12mm so might be about perfect for this use case.

OPMustang.com has info on longer studs and sells a few, but they’re mostly about extra long studs for extra wide spacers, but check it out.
 
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Brigadir

Brigadir

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ARP makes 1/2” longer studs. That’s 12mm so might be about perfect for this use case.

OPMustang.com has info on longer studs and sells a few, but they’re mostly about extra long studs for extra wide spacers, but check it out.
Yeah, I checked ARP, just didn’t include them in the post. What bothers me is that they are designed for open lug nuts (have the bald end without thread). And they are expensive :)

1752539085815-70.webp
 

NightmareMoon

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If you have a long wheel stud, then if you own a grinder you also have a short wheel stud.. Just keep it cool so it doesn't anneal on you.

Anyway, that's all I got. Good luck!
 

pinksurfer

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my .02 and not much to add to the discussion but....

i put longer studs on my 370z and it was easy-peasy 2 hours of work and less than $50. the pp1 rims don't quite sit flush so decided to do the same thing on the mustang and figured american car sold everywhere would be just as cheap. after hours of researching, I finally decided to just buy wider rims to fill the gap. my research landed on having to remove the rear hubs to install studs and nothing was cheap. even the "kits" were going to run 4 bills(tax/shipping) and a full day or 2 to install.

good luck and hope you find a cheap/easy solution.
 

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Yeah, I checked ARP, just didn’t include them in the post. What bothers me is that they are designed for open lug nuts (have the bald end without thread). And they are expensive :)

1752539085815-70.jpg
I have a set of 10 ARP +1/2" studs I want to sell. Make me an offer.

I view the bullet noise shape as an aid for stabbing the wheel on, and not for requiring open lugs.

BTW half inch is just right to make front and rear match in the stance.
 

stang-man

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The F 350 studs (Ford FCPZ 1107 A ) dont work?
 
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Brigadir

Brigadir

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The F 350 studs (Ford FCPZ 1107 A ) dont work?
I haven't investigated them. What would interest me - if the head is small enough to not touch the ABS ring, and what's bolt grade, comparing to the Dorman versions. So far I ordered Dorman 610-004, will see if the fit without issues
 

stang-man

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TonyT930

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Does the front hub need to be removed to replace the front wheel studs? I would like to press them out while the hub is still on if possible
 
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stang-man

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I pressed mine out with a couple of strikes from a large hammer.
 

Dana Pants

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I broke a bunch of OEM rear studs before switching to ARP. Don't bother with OEM or Dorman studs if its a performance application.
 
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Brigadir

Brigadir

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I broke a bunch of OEM rear studs before switching to ARP. Don't bother with OEM or Dorman studs if its a performance application.
The reason should be in 8 grade of OEM studs. The ones for GT350/500 are of 10.9 grade. Since I couldn't find specs for ARP studs, it's hard to tell if they are better objectively that ones of 10.9 grade from Dorman
 

Dana Pants

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The reason should be in 8 grade of OEM studs. The ones for GT350/500 are of 10.9 grade. Since I couldn't find specs for ARP studs, it's hard to tell if they are better objectively that ones of 10.9 grade from Dorman
oem is still claiming to be a high grade stud. 10.9 or whatever. It’s stamped in the back in little letters.
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