Kooks 1 7/8 header install

[crzystang]

Started about 10 this morning. 1 o’clock and the car is in the air and passenger side factory manifold is off. Gonna keep rocking.
I wanted to add that on our cars taking the under pans off makes this job much easier to complete!

Also for you viewing pleasure, since I had all the underpinnings off it gave me a good chance to look at the coolers, I have attached some of those pics also.

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[Atlas1]

Those are green cats right? Anxiously awaiting completion of this project!

 

[PBM457]

Are you sticking with the stock exhaust?

 

[crzystang]

Almost done....
These will go in to Borla SwitchFire and factory AE. For now.....

 

[Atlas1]

Video now!!!

 

[Zelek]

Are you going to tune the car or just run spacers on the rear O2's? Curious to how this sounds when you're done.

 

[WCRookie99]

Almost done....
These will go in to Borla SwitchFire and factory AE. For now.....

Awesome, my Kooks just shipped. So will get into into it soon.

1. Any difficulty with any of the Header bolts to the Block?
2. Did you need to slightly lift the Engine (ie disconnect the motor mounts.)
3. How was the fit around the steering Column? (hopefully you didn't need to disconnect it)
4. Did you need to take the Battery out? to get to any bolts (Actually, I'm relocating my battery to the Truck so no big deal if you did.)
5. If you had to lift the Engine slightly, just by the Bell Housing or some other way? (Your photo seems to show a block of wood at the Bell housing, just double checking)

Thanks again

 

[SlowJunk]

When I installed 2" kooks on my 18 I did remove the battery, and shield for better access to header studs. Also had to remove both lower motor mounts and jack the engine up slightly. Some people leave a few of the factory studs in the block cause they are a pita to remove. I ended up changing them all and using the stage 8 locking fasteners that were supplied. A good set of metric swivel ratcheting wrenches will be your best friend. Even then my knuckles looked like hamburger meat but it was well worth it. Kooks is top notch quality and fitment.

Just FYI, do the passenger side first. Makes the rest of it seem like a breeze.

 

[crzystang]

Hey guys got home about 30 mins ago got the job done.... really not too bad.

I will collect my thoughts and get some more updates tomorrow!

 

[crzystang]

Video now!!!

Haha no no.. would definitely need ear protection!

 

[crzystang]

Are you going to tune the car or just run spacers on the rear O2's? Curious to how this sounds when you're done.

Yes PBD I have tunes.

 

[crzystang]

Awesome, my Kooks just shipped. So will get into into it soon.

1. Any difficulty with any of the Header bolts to the Block?
2. Did you need to slightly lift the Engine (ie disconnect the motor mounts.)
3. How was the fit around the steering Column? (hopefully you didn't need to disconnect it)
4. Did you need to take the Battery out? to get to any bolts (Actually, I'm relocating my battery to the Truck so no big deal if you did.)
5. If you had to lift the Engine slightly, just by the Bell Housing or some other way? (Your photo seems to show a block of wood at the Bell housing, just double checking)

Thanks again

As stated multiple times... do the passenger side first!
1) Hardest ones are the front 2 top and bottom. Going back in and taking the studs out.
2) Affirmative. Raised the engine a bit
3) Yes you have to disconnect steering column for install.
4) I don’t think it had to come out but I did take it and the heat shield out.
5) Correct. I used a pole stand and a small 2x4 to lift the engine slightly. I have A10 so the cooler lines are in the way.

I will collect a list of tools and ways I did things and freshen the thread tomorrow with some cold starts and things like that!

10am- Car went in the bay 7pm- Car was pulled out

Cheers!!!

 

[crzystang]

Ok all summary time

I won’t hit every little detail as those can be found, but I will outline some of the details I had questions about but couldn’t find.


So first things first. My A10 proved that the cooler lines from the transmission were a pain!

On ground:
Remove intake, battery, top motor mount nuts. I also took out the battery box and heat shield as well as the strut tower brace just to ensure I didn’t hit it moving the engine.

After getting vehicle on lift:
Remover front and rear under aero. Remove cat back. Loosens transmission mount nuts. START ON THE PASSENGER SIDE!!!!

On passenger side the front 2 top and bottom are the worst. A 36” 3/8 extension and some patience is a big help. Also a long flex head ratchet wrench is a must!
I removed all factory hard ware. Put in top front two bolts and fished the header in. This takes some time and an extra set of hands with a long small pry bar helps tremendously!!! I worked my way from front to back. Reaching the front two bottom bolts from the bottom with extension and swivel socket. Top two and the rest with flex head ratchet wrench. Again the long flex head ratchet wrench helped with the front and middle top bolts. I got all bolts in and tightened put on the lock wings and E clips. Take you time getting the motor mount back in. I had to really raise the engine to get the mount bracket back in. Passenger side took about 4.5-5 hours.

Driver side remove all fasteners, motor mount, disconnect steering column. At this point the factory manifold falls out. Putting the header back is almost as easy.

Tools that are a must!!!!!

11mm flex head long ratchet
15mm flex head long ratchet
I used these https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612499_200612499?cm_mmc=Bing-pla&utm_source=Bing_PLA&utm_medium=Hand Tools > Wrenches > Flex + Ratcheting Wrenches&utm_campaign=Klutch&utm_content=32298&cmpid=53403384&agid=3200075895&tgtid=pla-4577335628336523&prdid=32298&msclkid=f6e7978852371e67768ef65a10951675&gclid=f6e7978852371e67768ef65a10951675&gclsrc=3p.ds

15mm stubby ratchet wrench
15mm swivel (I used snap-on impact one piece, the “u joint” and socket might work not sure)

I do not know if the job would be possible without these tools!

Nice tools to have that really helped
3/8 ratchet battery or air I use M12 battery
E8 socket
1”/stubby 3/8 extension
36” 3/8 extension
Long handle 1/4” ratchet
1/4” u-joint

All in all not a incredibly hard job but definitely some work. I would hate to do it on stands!
The biggest time saver, other than the lift, was the battery power ratchet!!!!

I will get some videos posted. Cheers!!!

 

[Zelek]

This is why I paid a shop $500 to do it on my 17 GT. It's pretty extensive and having the right tools really helps. Only part I didn't install myself because it's a pain especially on jack stands.

 

[crzystang]

This is why I paid a shop $500 to do it on my 17 GT. It's pretty extensive and having the right tools really helps. Only part I didn't install myself because it's a pain especially on jack stands.

I got 3 quotes one for $650 one for $1100 and one for $1500. I figured with my car only having 300 miles on it if anyone was going to install it would be me.

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