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Koni Active Shocks

shogun32

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But I am wondering if the Koni Active shocks will get rid of the nose dive and squat during hard braking and acceleration?
mostly 'no'. Springs support the car, dampers change the time taken to reach the new equilibrium point. When you jamb on the brakes (and hold it long enough) the car will achieve the same nose drop as before. It'll just be slower about getting there. Now the change in speed may be sufficient to satisfy your needs. But if you want the nose to only drop say 2" instead of 4" on an equivalent stop, you need higher rate springs.
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JCFoster

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Hey guys, really appreciate your feedback on the kit.

I am looking to buy the Koni Active struts and shocks and still use the stock spring on my 2017 GT non-pp. I noticed that OP mentioned it will keep the car flat and corner better. But I am wondering if the Koni Active shocks will get rid of the nose dive and squat during hard braking and acceleration?

So is it going to be overall better in terms of performance, vs PP struts and shocks?

My goal is to improve overall handling and maintain ride comfort as much as possible. Let's say 60% performance and 40% comfort. Thanks.
I don’t brake or accelerate hard so I can’t say, but yes it will do better with handling and ride comfort.
 

Stone 54

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I’d say the kit will improve ride quality on rougher roads as long as they’re not riding on the bump stops; I would trim them even at stock height.

They may help nose dive and squat a bit but normally this is improved by a better set of springs - generally lowering springs because they reduce center of gravity and often have higher spring rates (help manage the car’s weight in direction changes).

At stock height the Koni Actives will work well from my understanding. Steeda and Koni put out a marketing video showing the difference between stock and active dampers in terms of dive and squat under undulating road surfaces. Take a look on YouTube for it.
mostly 'no'. Springs support the car, dampers change the time taken to reach the new equilibrium point. When you jamb on the brakes (and hold it long enough) the car will achieve the same nose drop as before. It'll just be slower about getting there. Now the change in speed may be sufficient to satisfy your needs. But if you want the nose to only drop say 2" instead of 4" on an equivalent stop, you need higher rate springs.
I don’t brake or accelerate hard so I can’t say, but yes it will do better with handling and ride comfort.
Thanks guys for the responses. They are really helpful.
 

TheMegalodon

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One thing that needs to be said is that Koni’s Active dampers aren’t ideal with lowering springs and if I was aware of this before, I likely would have gone with Steeda’s active set or something else entirely. Steeda tested theirs with lowering springs to make sure they offered enough damping to stay off the bump stops.

I feel like I’m one of the few that are having issues in the rear with poor ride because of regular bump stop impacts. I’ve reached out to BMR to ask about their rear spring, specifically that it drops lower than advertised. I’ll see what they say.

At this point I’d say use Koni’s active dampers at stock height but don’t bother if lowering.
 
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BmacIL

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When I was at my dealer having the tech look things over he said there was a “finger width” so 6/8ths of an inch space between the top of the shock body and the bump stop while on its wheels.
  • The rear OE bump stop is 3 inches tall
  • I cut off 0.625” (as per BMR)
  • Total bump stop height 2.375”
  • We cut off 0.5” worth I believe (another section in red)
  • Total bump stop height: ~ 1.875” (in green)
  • Amount of exposed shaft: ~ 1.2” (can’t check this weekend)
  • Steeda’s rear short stack bump: 1.5” (for reference)
197EDFD4-90F9-47D4-96E7-D1DB8441D986.jpeg
BMR has strongly recommended Eibach bumpstops at full height for their lowering springs. As mentioned, they have a very progressive rate build-up and in Kelly's description, ride much better than trimmed stock stops or the FP trimmed stops.
 

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TheMegalodon

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BMR has strongly recommended Eibach bumpstops at full height for their lowering springs. As mentioned, they have a very progressive rate build-up and in Kelly's description, ride much better than trimmed stock stops or the FP trimmed stops.
Funny you mention that because I reached out to Eibach directly to ask if I could purchase a set of their Pro Kit bump stops. What’s interesting is Koni recommends the Pro Kit with the Actives. And the Pro Kit has a lower ride height than my BMR SP763 springs. I’m wondering if it’s the slightly higher progressive spring rates or the much better bump stops that make the Eibach Pro Kit the recommended set.

I hope Eibach will sell me a set or I may have to try Steeda’s shorter stock PU bump stops (Concerned about the stiffness though).

Anyone been successful in buying Eibach’s bump stops separately?


If I had known in advance the Eibach was recommended I would have bought it. I read such good things about BMRs performance springs I figured they’d be a safe bet - similar spring rates to stock and minimum drop means I can maintain geometry and was hoping to maintain similar to stock ride.

Really it’s just the rear shocks. I have zero issues with the front struts, no noise, no ride issues, no handling issues.

As it’s been mentioned before, I feel the rear BMR springs have dropped my car lower than the 0.5” advertised so there’s far less shock travel available before hitting the bump stops. At this point my least costly resolution to my rear damping issues is better bump stops.
 

BmacIL

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Funny you mention that because I reached out to Eibach directly to ask if I could purchase a set of their Pro Kit bump stops. What’s interesting is Koni recommends the Pro Kit with the Actives. And the Pro Kit has a lower ride height than my BMR SP763 springs. I’m wondering if it’s the slightly higher progressive spring rates or the much better bump stops that make the Eibach Pro Kit the recommended set.

If I had known in advance the Eibach was recommended I would have bought it. I read such good things about BMRs performance springs I figured they’d be a safe bet - similar spring rates to stock and minimum drop means I can maintain geometry and was hoping to maintain similar to stock ride.

Really it’s just the rear shocks. I have zero issues with the front struts, no noise, no ride issues, no handling issues.

As it’s been mentioned before, I feel the rear BMR springs have dropped my car lower than the 0.5” advertised so there’s far less shock travel available before hitting the bump stops. At this point my least costly resolution to my rear damping issues is better bump stops.
The Pro Kit are linear springs, 200/800 lb/in, F/R.

How much did the rear springs drop?
 

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The Pro Kit are linear springs, 200/800 lb/in, F/R.

How much did the rear springs drop?
Weird I read they were progressive from 200-314f//800-914r

if you look to the previous page I posted pictures of my ride. Side views on both sets of wheels. There’s 1 finger gap in the rear basically. About 1-1.5 in the front. Feels like the rear dropped more than the front did. Car sits level though.

Here’s a different set: Lowered top, stock bottom picture

B9B91CB2-5E8C-4403-A64E-6A7023A9A127.jpeg


745B8790-AD94-4E98-8E98-718BFBEE4145.jpeg
 
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BmacIL

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Weird I read they were progressive from 200-240f//800-940r

if you look to the previous page I posted pictures of my ride. Side views on both sets of wheels. There’s 1 finger gap in the rear basically. About 1-1.5 in the front. Feels like the rear dropped more than the front did. Car sits level though.

Here’s a different set: Lowered top, stock bottom picture

View attachment 418143
745B8790-AD94-4E98-8E98-718BFBEE4145.jpeg
The 240 and 940 are factoring in the bumpstop contribution.

You did clock the bushings? The spring seats will settle over time. When I first did my GT350R / BMR SP085 springs, the front appeared to sit a tad higher as well, even though when measured there was still forward rake. After a couple months it leveled and now the gap is perfectly even F and R.
 

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BmacIL

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TheMegalodon

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The 240 and 940 are factoring in the bumpstop contribution.

You did clock the bushings? The spring seats will settle over time. When I first did my GT350R / BMR SP085 springs, the front appeared to sit a tad higher as well, even though when measured there was still forward rake. After a couple months it leveled and now the gap is perfectly even F and R.
This picture is right after the alignment. It’s still sitting at the same height.

Bushings were clocked yes. I expected the front to sit higher cause it’s the 7/8” drop rather than the 1.2” but man that rear just dropped.

If this is a half inch drop in the rear then how are 1” drop springs not tucking tire.

Also thanks for clarifying how the bump stops affect it. Learning more and more as I go and I appreciate it.
 

shogun32

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product number? source?
It's the (E)BS770066 for the rears and fronts are -44 . I couldn't get the rate information from Eibach - they didn't have it handy. They are $27.8 each (less below) but I ordered some extras and got a further discount. @TheMegalodon I'll be happy to send you some if you like.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/eib-ebs770060/overview/
background
https://www.cjponyparts.com/pub/media/images/install-pdf/install_ebs28-1.pdf

I may have found a source of my rear suspension 'oscillations' (shocks were built with either trimmed Ford bumpers or even stiffer 'adjustables') and swapping to the Eibach might be just the ticket. Now I wish I had a lift. Next need to tear into a Koni damper to see what's going on inside it.
 
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BmacIL

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BmacIL

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It's the BS770066 for the rears. I couldn't get the rate information from Eibach - they didn't have it handy.
They are $27.8 each (less below) but I ordered some extras and got a further discount. @TheMegalodon I'll be happy to send you some if you like.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/eib-ebs770060/overview/
background
https://www.cjponyparts.com/pub/media/images/install-pdf/install_ebs28-1.pdf

I may have found a source of my rear suspension 'oscillations' (shocks were built with either trimmed Ford bumpers or even stiffer 'adjustables') and swapping to the Eibach might be just the ticket. Now I wish I had a lift. Next need to tear into a Koni damper to see what's going on inside it.
EBS70044 and EBS770060 FYI.
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