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Kobi Addiction

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Hey fellas. Just got my ATX-20-HD, terminal adapters and charger in the mail.

However, I'm unsure on how to use the charger or how to change between modes (I.E. charge mode or trickle charge mode, etc.) There's no buttons on the charger and the manual really doesn't explain. Just has a lot of pictures.

Basically I just want to fully charge it before I install it into the car. Thanks in advance for any help.

Here's a pic of the charger I have:
I have the same battery and charger. Just connect the charger and it will go through its sequence on its own. It will test it, charge it and maintain it.
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Less Weight

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Less Weight

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Have another question, lol.

Removed my original OEM battery and left it out of the car for more than a week so the car would reset/forget any previous settings.

After that I charged my ATX-20-HD for 24 hours then installed it into the car.

Then I locked the car and left it locked for 24 hours without touching it (As per the advise in the video on the previous page)

Drove it today but not sure if the voltages are what they should be since I have no experience with lithium batteries. Here's what I observed:

When the car would come to a complete stop at a stop light or stop sign the voltage would drop down 13 volts and stay there. On occasion it would drop to 12.9 but that was rare.

When the car was moving it would stay pretty steady, either at 14 volts or 14.5.

Normal? Thanks for any input guys.
 
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Demonic

Demonic

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Have another question, lol.

Removed my original OEM battery and left it out of the car for more than a week so the car would reset/forget any previous settings.

After that I charged my ATX-20-HD for 24 hours then installed it into the car.

Then I locked the car and left it locked for 24 hours without touching it (As per the advise in the video on the previous page)

Drove it today but not sure if the voltages are what they should be since I have no experience with lithium batteries. Here's what I observed:

When the car would come to a complete stop at a stop light or stop sign the voltage would drop down 13 volts and stay there. On occasion it would drop to 12.9 but that was rare.

When the car was moving it would stay pretty steady, either at 14 volts or 14.5.

Normal? Thanks for any input guys.
Very normal. The car's algorithms for controlling the charge voltage is pretty complex and you can't read too much into it.
 

Less Weight

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Very normal. The car's algorithms for controlling the charge voltage is pretty complex and you can't read too much into it.
Thanks for the reply; appreciate it.

However, I took the car out again and this time the voltages are behaving counter to what they were last time I took the car out.

As stated previously, at a complete stop, voltages would drop down to 13 volts and stay there and when the car was moving it would stay pretty steady, either at 14 volts or 14.5.

However, NOW when the car is in MOTION, it stays at 12.7 volts and when it is under off-throttle engine de-acceleration (no braking) it goes up to 14 or 14.5 volts. Like I said, complete opposite of what it was doing last time I drove the car.

Thanks again for any input.
 

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Too much real time live feed information per the usual I wouldn't even bother with it. It works or it doesn't.
Yeah, but I forgot to mention the car seemed to be running a bit rough.

I'm just worried because everything in a modern car, from timing to spark to fuel maps is controlled by sensitive electronics so any deviation from normal specs might have some unforeseen consequences down the road. This car has been bullet proof thus far so I'd hate to ruin it.

Just seems like 12.7 volts is too low when others on this thread say they see 13 and up range.
 
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Demonic

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Thanks for the reply; appreciate it.

However, I took the car out again and this time the voltages are behaving counter to what they were last time I took the car out.

As stated previously, at a complete stop, voltages would drop down to 13 volts and stay there and when the car was moving it would stay pretty steady, either at 14 volts or 14.5.

However, NOW when the car is in MOTION, it stays at 12.7 volts and when it is under off-throttle engine de-acceleration (no braking) it goes up to 14 or 14.5 volts. Like I said, complete opposite of what it was doing last time I drove the car.

Thanks again for any input.
It's not about whether the car is in motion. The computer uses a ton of variables as input and chooses the voltage based on those variables - things like perceived state of charge on the battery, total electronic load, recent states of charge, engine load, throttle position, etc. If the car perceives the battery as being fully charged, it'll often drop the voltage output on the alternator because it's trying to avoid using engine power to charge a fully charged battery. Likewise under hard acceleration with a fully charged battery, it could drop to below 13 volts. At idle the engine power isn't needed to move the car so it may take that time to replenish the battery. Even if you drive around with a laptop plugged into the car running Forscan so you can monitor all the variables in real time, which I've done, it can be really hard to read into the voltages. If the car is running rough, that could be a totally different issue. You can always put a regular battery in and see if that changes anything. If you aren't comfortable running a lithium battery in the car, then just go back to a regular battery. Even if you put a regular battery back in and the voltages behave differently, it doesn't necessarily mean there was any issue with the battery.
 

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Okay, so I slugged through almost all of this thread:

What is the general consensus when running one of the new/updated batteries with restart?

1) Battery reset through Forscan
2) Disable battery management (by the way it wasn't clear if anyone did that and if there are any unintended consequences other than a slight reduction in fuel economy. Does it then not free wheel the alternator under WOT?)
3) Change the battery type to "05" to reflect the Ford GT Lithium battery?

All of the above or some combination?

Couple of follow on questions. The details are sparse on the battery reset. I understand the Antigravity battery has to be in the car and connected, but someone mentioned that you have to wait 8 hours. So, other than running the reset in Forscan, what's left to do? Nothing? Don't drive the car for 8 hours? Does the battery need to be charged fully prior to reset?

What is the setting/line to disable the battery management? I'm assuming this simply defaults to charging as much as possible all the time.
 

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They say the restart batteries were corrected. All well and good. If they still make a battery without restart, I would get that.

The problems people were having early on when installing was that they would take a lithium battery and install it without completely charging it. They would hit the battery charge indicator on the battery and think it was full, when in fact it wasn't. The charging system on out cars is intelligent. It knows when the battery is full and when it is not. If you throw a different battery into the car and it is different than what the pcm thinks it is, the car is going to throw a fit.

I always leave the car on a battery tender so the pcm knows the battery is full. When I put a lithium battery in the car, I make sure it's full. Apples to apples the pcm is happy.

If you don't do that, then you must use a scanning tool to to the bcm reset. This way, the pcm relearns the battery and away you go.
 

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They say the restart batteries were corrected. All well and good. If they still make a battery without restart, I would get that.

The problems people were having early on when installing was that they would take a lithium battery and install it without completely charging it. They would hit the battery charge indicator on the battery and think it was full, when in fact it wasn't. The charging system on out cars is intelligent. It knows when the battery is full and when it is not. If you throw a different battery into the car and it is different than what the pcm thinks it is, the car is going to throw a fit.

I always leave the car on a battery tender so the pcm knows the battery is full. When I put a lithium battery in the car, I make sure it's full. Apples to apples the pcm is happy.

If you don't do that, then you must use a scanning tool to to the bcm reset. This way, the pcm relearns the battery and away you go.
Muchas Gracias.

I did fully charge mine and for the first few trips it was no issue. And I'm also using the Lithium tender/charger each time I park in the garage. It did give me a voltage code on the last drive. So I'm thinking I'll just run the battery reset and see how it goes.
 

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Muchas Gracias.

I did fully charge mine and for the first few trips it was no issue. And I'm also using the Lithium tender/charger each time I park in the garage. It did give me a voltage code on the last drive. So I'm thinking I'll just run the battery reset and see how it goes.
Which battery did you get?
 

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Which battery did you get?
H5/47.

I got to skip all the mounting brain damage because I bought a Watson battery relocation and the tray will accommodate virtually anything up to a tractor trailer battery it seems.
 

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Fyi. When sometime u don't use the car for long time..the battery ( ax20hd ) goes in safe mode .and completely disconnect.
So be sure to have a quick jump starter. (Inuse a 70$ amazon one)
Start the car once and u good to go.
 

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Fyi. When sometime u don't use the car for long time..the battery ( ax20hd ) goes in safe mode .and completely disconnect.
So be sure to have a quick jump starter. (Inuse a 70$ amazon one)
Start the car once and u good to go.
I've been using the charger/tender whenever I park in the garage. Haven't left it parked away from home for a long time.

Does yours not have the "restart"? I'm curious to see if that actually works.
 

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I've been using the charger/tender whenever I park in the garage. Haven't left it parked away from home for a long time.

Does yours not have the "restart"? I'm curious to see if that actually works.
I had the restart. It does work.
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