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Kobi Addiction

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@Angrey I purchased the H5 | 47 | 24ah | 1000CCA with the ReStart technology in 2020 and I had major voltage issues. The battery was topped off prior to install and I let the vehicle sit overnight after install before firing up. I kept an eye on voltage the first week and noticed it was all over the place, but the Shelby seemed to be running just fine. On the 8th day, driving on the freeway the vehicle threw a voltage error and went into limp mode. All electronics on the dash began flickering and voltage was spiked to 15.6. I had to shut the vehicle down and coast onto the feeter into a parking lot. AG rep mentioned it was most likely the ReStart tech and that I should go with the ATX20HD, which I did. She's been running perfect for the last 15 months since the switch.

Maybe AG has corrected the ReStart tech.
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Angrey

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Interestingly, it was working kinda how you described up until the point that I ran the FORSCAN reset yesterday. With the charger/maintainer on it, I came out to find it dead/off and in reset. Punched the reset and the car fired up. I'll report more in the coming days. Voltage levels have been wonky and all over the place, but I just suspected that's Ford's dumbass management system.

My battery was purchased after they allegedly resolved the restart issues. If I can't get this thing to work reliably there won't be any replacing it with another AG product I can tell you that. I'll just punt and throw in an OEM battery. I'm not throwing good money after bad. Hopefully it doesn't end up being a nightmare. I really should have researched first, I probably wouldn't have dropped several hundo on a product that has more distractions and obligations than a rescue pet.

Has anyone ever really answered the question of 1) How to turn off the battery management and 2) if it has any detrimental effects?

In the old days, the alternator would provide charge and a voltage regulator would simply protect the battery and bleed off any unwanted or unnecessary current. Simple. Effective.

This EPA crap to save .0001 mpg is nonsense. Rather than dump a good product (Li battery) has anyone just disabled Ford's esoteric management system?
 

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Is it a correct statement to say...the restart feature works the same as a jump start, and you really only need that as a backup in the case of a dead battery?

If you use your car in such a way that that's a legit fear, why would one not just keep a jump starter in the car? I never head out on a roat trip without my AG XP-10 MicroStart anyways.
 
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There have been multiple versions of the ReStart, some with less issues than others, but I only recommend the ATX-20HD (or ATX-30HD if you can deal with the fit issues). The ATX-20HD works fine. You do not want to disable the battery management coding in Forscan. Just get the ATX-20HD, charge it to full, and drop it in the car. Many times of the forum we've simply said just get the ATX-20HD. I've also told Scott, the owner of Antigravity, to avoid having the reps recommend the ReStart batteries to GT350 owners and he said it can be difficult to keep track since they deal with many car brands. I tested 3 different versions of the ReStart batteries on my car for them. Two had issues, and one was ok most of the time. When you see the car start acting up it's because the internal protection of the ReStart battery cut the power internally on the battery, forcing the car to run directly off the alternator with no load balancing, which the cars really don't like. Just avoid the ReStart batteries.
 

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There have been multiple versions of the ReStart, some with less issues than others, but I only recommend the ATX-20HD (or ATX-30HD if you can deal with the fit issues). The ATX-20HD works fine. You do not want to disable the battery management coding in Forscan. Just get the ATX-20HD, charge it to full, and drop it in the car. Many times of the forum we've simply said just get the ATX-20HD. I've also told Scott, the owner of Antigravity, to avoid having the reps recommend the ReStart batteries to GT350 owners and he said it can be difficult to keep track since they deal with many car brands. I tested 3 different versions of the ReStart batteries on my car for them. Two had issues, and one was ok most of the time. When you see the car start acting up it's because the internal protection of the ReStart battery cut the power internally on the battery, forcing the car to run directly off the alternator with no load balancing, which the cars really don't like. Just avoid the ReStart batteries.
This isn't a track only car for me. The ATX-20 only has 15 AH of storage and on a lithium, that's cutting it too close for comfort. And I'd be dropping another $400 and STILL dealing with the hassle of putting it on a tender EVERY night. No thanks, if it doesn't work out, I'll just go back to a 96R. But you're absolutely correct, I bought mine before doing the proper research. Shame on me.
 

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Angrey

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Is it a correct statement to say...the restart feature works the same as a jump start, and you really only need that as a backup in the case of a dead battery?

If you use your car in such a way that that's a legit fear, why would one not just keep a jump starter in the car? I never head out on a roat trip without my AG XP-10 MicroStart anyways.
It's kinda the point. There are many positive aspects of a Lithium over a traditional Pb battery, but one of the drawbacks is slow draw (which our cars are KNOWN for even on the OE batteries).

On a traditional Pb battery, if you have a 1 amp trickle draw (anything from bluetooth to keyless signals to just plain current bleed from all sorts of electrical components), that means a 15 AH Lithium will run down to dead in 15 hours. Compare that with a Pb battery which typically has say 85 minutes of "reserve" meaning it can run at full boogie with no charging support for 85 minutes before voltage drops to below minimum. That means for slow current bleeds, it can sit for days and days and days before it finally drops below voltage needed to start.

AG recognized this risk/issue and put a fail safe reserve in it so you don't come out to a dead battery/car unable to start.

Which is fine, but Ford and their esoteric management system doesn't play nicely.

We could manage that risk without a restart/reserve by carrying a separate jump pack?

In the end, it all starts to add up to a bridge too far. The complications and concerns (and additional costs) aren't worth the few lbs of weight savings.
 

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If you are not trying to reduce weight for track use, why would you want a lithium battery anyway?

If you have to have one, have a look at the 30, which is recommended for street use.

The purpose is weight reduction. If it's just a street car, I don't know if I'd do it.

When I go to the track, I install the lithium. When I am done, I put the oem battery back in.
 

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If you are not trying to reduce weight for track use, why would you want a lithium battery anyway?

If you have to have one, have a look at the 30, which is recommended for street use.

The purpose is weight reduction. If it's just a street car, I don't know if I'd do it.

When I go to the track, I install the lithium. When I am done, I put the oem battery back in.
Because reducing weight is always a good thing. But not at the cost of a bunch of brain damage and gyrations. I was happy to pay more for a lightweight solution. I just didn't realize it was going to come with more instructions and demands than babysitting a child with 40 different allergies.

I (and I think we all) want more performance and I'm willing to pay extra for it. And I'm not completely void of the idea that some performance stuff means you have to make sacrifices, but all of this just seems to be the juice isn't worth the squeeze. Like I said, I'll try it for a few more days, but if it ain't gonna work with what I bought, then I'll just punt and go back to the heavy/OEM version. Expensive + lower weight = yes. Expensive + lower weight + all sorts of car doesn't work reliably = no thanks.
 

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Then get the 30, the bigger version. Anitgravity was always clear that the 20 isn't a daily battery.
 

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And it's free and clear of voltage swings and codes and what not?
Yes, both the 20 and 30 work fine. I'm not sure where you got the 1amp of draw. With the 20 I can leave the car sitting without a tender for 2 weeks, and start it fine and drive around. Even not as a track car the 20 is fine if you aren't going to be leaving the car for more than about 2 weeks. The 30 you can leave for at least 3 weeks. The parasitic draw on these cars is pretty low. When you mention another $400, did you see if AG would let you trade the current one towards the 20 or 30 instead?
 

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Yes, both the 20 and 30 work fine. I'm not sure where you got the 1amp of draw. With the 20 I can leave the car sitting without a tender for 2 weeks, and start it fine and drive around. Even not as a track car the 20 is fine if you aren't going to be leaving the car for more than about 2 weeks. The 30 you can leave for at least 3 weeks. The parasitic draw on these cars is pretty low. When you mention another $400, did you see if AG would let you trade the current one towards the 20 or 30 instead?
I'll reach out to them and see if they'll at least take this one back and give me some sort of refurb credit.
 

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I'll reach out to them and see if they'll at least take this one back and give me some sort of refurb credit.
They are pretty good people, just tell them the 20 won't work for you and a 30 will do it. I'm sure they will work with you.
 

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I'll reach out to them and see if they'll at least take this one back and give me some sort of refurb credit.
I feel your anquish and really think it best to avoid those w/Restart technology. I will say, Chad has been great to work with and trust they will help ensure you are a satisfied customer.
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