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Jacking Rails that do not interfere or block Pinch rails..

Nightmonkey

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I will get the settings from Cura tomorrow.
If I find time, I'll fish the thing out of the trunk and take a couple of pictures.

I expect everything with 100% infill and good bonding (process reasonably adapted to the extruder material) works.
In fact, it's just a solid lump of plastic that you put in between.
If everything is form-fitting, the lump has no problems holding together, since it is only loaded by pressure.

I printed the part, like almost everything I make, with PETG.
Milling from POM or similar material should also not be a problem, the geometry has no deep undercuts.
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pilotgore

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I will get the settings from Cura tomorrow.
If I find time, I'll fish the thing out of the trunk and take a couple of pictures.

I expect everything with 100% infill and good bonding (process reasonably adapted to the extruder material) works.
In fact, it's just a solid lump of plastic that you put in between.
If everything is form-fitting, the lump has no problems holding together, since it is only loaded by pressure.

I printed the part, like almost everything I make, with PETG.
Milling from POM or similar material should also not be a problem, the geometry has no deep undercuts.
Perfect. Solid PETG it is (which is also what all my gear is made from.)

Thanks.
 
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Cyberbill

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Perfect. Solid PETG it is (which is also what all my gear is made from.)

Thanks.
I hope you guys both realize Grandpa has no idea what you are talking about, but I wish you great success… Also don’t spend a lot of money or your time on this project… I don’t know what 3d printer plastic cost, but if it’s like printer ink, then I know it ain’t cheap…Thanks Grandpa Bill
 

pilotgore

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I hope you guys both realize Grandpa has no idea what you are talking about, but I wish you great success… Also don’t spend a lot of money or your time on this project… I don’t know what 3d printer plastic cost, but if it’s like printer ink, then I know it ain’t cheap…Thanks Grandpa Bill
I’ll send you a private message.
 

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Cyberbill

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I can take a pic of them on my car but the bracket at the end where it mounts to the car is solid bar on the full length ones, the bar is definitely shorter
Hello. Not rushing, but could you please take that picture for me of you rails, especially at the front pinch rail where the Ford Scissors jack would hook up to the pinch rail. Thanks Again. I know you work at night , so really at your convenience. Grandp Bill
 

JustSomeGuy

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Hello. Not rushing, but could you please take that picture for me of you rails, especially at the front pinch rail where the Ford Scissors jack would hook up to the pinch rail. Thanks Again. I know you work at night , so really at your convenience. Grandp Bill
I’m so sorry I got caught up with a crazy work schedule, I’ll grab some pics today.
 

MCS

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I can take a pic of them on my car but the bracket at the end where it mounts to the car is solid bar on the full length ones, the bar is definitely shorter
Which ones you rolling with again?

This is one of the mods I'm doing come springtime so I can take my wheels off in the driveway and clean the inside of the drum/rim.
 

JustSomeGuy

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Which ones you rolling with again?

This is one of the mods I'm doing come springtime so I can take my wheels off in the driveway and clean the inside of the drum/rim.
I have the Steeda ultra lites, or whatever the hell they’re called.
 
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Canadian Crimson

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So the issue with jacking rails on the vert is the way they mount underneath the car. Our chassis brace uses the rear 2 holes that the jacking rails mount to, this is why only Steeda vert rails will fit. They are flat on the rear side and mount ( over or under I cant remember) our chassis braces. I was wondering the same things as you Bill but then I watched the install video from CJ pony pasrts for the Convertible specific rails. Then I understood lol
 

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MAGS1

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Which ones you rolling with again?

This is one of the mods I'm doing come springtime so I can take my wheels off in the driveway and clean the inside of the drum/rim.
Since you have the coupe/fastback, you want the Steeda full length. Gives you a little extra coverage along the pinch weld and the bolts are covered.
 
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Cyberbill

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So the issue with jacking rails on the vert is the way they mount underneath the car. Our chassis brace uses the rear 2 holes that the jacking rails mount to, this is why only Steeda vert rails will fit. They are flat on the rear side and mount ( over or under I cant remember) our chassis braces. I was wondering the same things as you Bill but then I watched the install video from CJ pony pasrts for the Convertible specific rails. Then I understood lol
My. Problem is I also have a Ford spare tire with scissors Jack, and the tang for the scissors Jack may not slip in between the gap on the pinch rail and the jacking rail, making my spare tire Jack not be able to lift the front for changing a flat on the side of the road. The rear tire area seems to work fine, but the front is in question.
 

Canadian Crimson

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My. Problem is I also have a Ford spare tire with scissors Jack, and the tang for the scissors Jack may not slip in between the gap on the pinch rail and the jacking rail, making my spare tire Jack not be able to lift the front for changing a flat on the side of the road. The rear tire area seems to work fine, but the front is in question.
Oh I get it, I was just saying why the coupe rails do not fit. I have a solution for you though, AAA lol
 
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Cyberbill

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Oh I get it, I was just saying why the coupe rails do not fit. I have a solution for you though, AAA lol
Nope… AAA can’t find your flat ass when you breakdown in “Holy Shit, what is this place,” Texas!! LOL.
 

JustSomeGuy

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So here’s the pics, I’ve highlighted the end of the jacking rail, the bracket of the jacking rail and the arrow mounting points on the car.
IMG_2517.webp

Rear of the passenger side
IMG_2516.webp

Front of three passenger side
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