Is the Performance Package worthwhile?

[MaskedRacerX]

I wanted my car, to be as good as possible, right out the door. No immediate need to make any changes, or dealing with parts that weren't designed to work together, or compromising aftermarket - and, once you reach the $52K-53K+ mark, the PP isn't much of an extra stretch.

Plus, PP is the only way to get Magneride, and I can't say enough good things about MR.

I've done a few cosmetic things (including wheels/tires I had moved from the previous car, that could also be considered a performance upgrade to some degree ...), but otherwise, the car has been spectacular is mostly a stock configuration (loaded up with PP, MR, AE, etc.)

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[Monarch]

Answer is all about usage of the car.
If you track the car the perf pack is really useful. For 2 reason
1. Bigger brakes and better ABS (standard brakes are with infamous reverse rotor so no air to cool down)
2. Torsen diff

The rest can be modified easily.

If you just do street usage. Then probably not important.
Note. Long tubes are gone. For the moment..

Is it possible to buy a TORSEN Diff separately? Or maybe a better one than that (Of course I do expect higher cost for better parts.)

 

[shogun32]

Is it possible to buy a TORSEN Diff separately?

of course.
https://www.lethalperformance.com/ford-performance-2015-2018-mustang-irs-torsen-differential.html
https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-differential-torsen-34-spline-8-8-2015-2021/p/M4204MT/
https://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-34spline-88-irs-torsen-diff-1516.html
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-4204-MT

 

[Monarch]

of course.
https://www.lethalperformance.com/ford-performance-2015-2018-mustang-irs-torsen-differential.html
https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-differential-torsen-34-spline-8-8-2015-2021/p/M4204MT/
https://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-34spline-88-irs-torsen-diff-1516.html
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-4204-MT

Awesome, as for the ABS and EPAS tuning, I'm pretty sure a tuning shop could handle that, right?

 

[shogun32]

Awesome, as for the ABS and EPAS tuning, I'm pretty sure a tuning shop could handle that, right?

nope. but you should talk to Vorshlag and Steeda if they have uncommon insight.

 

[BimmerDriver]

Compensating for 6 pistons vs 4 is something you should really be doing with pad compounds rather than braking technique.

As usual, Norm is spot-on.

Awesome, as for the ABS and EPAS tuning, I'm pretty sure a tuning shop could handle that, right?

Eh, no.

But really, the thing missing from this entire thread is "what does the OP want to do with the car?"

If you are just going to drive on the street, that's level A. If you are going to autocross, that's level B. If you are going to do HPDE, that's level C. They are not necessarily cumulative.

 

[Smunczen]

I searched for a PP2 car. I was able to located one and glad I did. For me it was a great bang for the buck. I looked at a base car and it was just to plain for me.

 

[Jerrycobra]

PP1 is just no longer a good deal, what was once a $2500 package became a $4000 one, which was still not that terrible, then it was 5000, is now $6200, almost what PP2 cost. You can pretty much source most PP1 goodies from the ford racing catalog if you want bits and pieces.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I would add
It's not only4 piston. Is the rotor design the real problem

I'm not sure I could bring myself to run backward-flow rotors even for duty that was planned to be street-only. I'm sure they're adequate for that kind of driving, but they sure as hell don't inspire much confidence.


Norm

 

[shogun32]

but they sure as hell don't inspire much confidence.

the industry is littered with cars with 'wrong way' rotors, by the millions. Anyway street use barely gets rotors warm anyway. The rotors could be made out of Gouda cheeze and maintain their physical integrity.

 

[Norm Peterson]

the industry is littered with cars with 'wrong way' rotors, by the millions. Anyway street use barely gets rotors warm anyway. The rotors could be made out of Gouda cheeze and maintain their physical integrity.

Only because for millions of car buyers the only thing they know about their car's brakes is that you have to step on a pedal to slow down or stop.


Norm

 

[Elp_jc]

is now $6200, almost what PP2 cost.

And don't forget PP2 already comes with MagneRide, which is an additional $1,600 on PP1s . So yes, PP1 is not a good deal at all anymore, but not a horrible one IMO, especially if you don't want to mess with your brand new car, like it was my case. The main items are the Brembo brakes and Torsen, but it also includes a larger cooling system (not that easy to retrofit either), several braces (those are relatively simple to add), and the tuning changes, of course. But for those who want MR (like me), the only way to get it is with PP1, unfortunately.

 

[krishelnino]

of course.
https://www.lethalperformance.com/ford-performance-2015-2018-mustang-irs-torsen-differential.html
https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-differential-torsen-34-spline-8-8-2015-2021/p/M4204MT/
https://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-34spline-88-irs-torsen-diff-1516.html
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-4204-MT

probably cheaper if you search locally, i got a 3.73 Torsen diff from 2019 car with 3k miles for $750. Also I've replicated much of the PP stuff on my car except ABS, EPAS tuning

6 piston Brembo setup - 800
FP Track suspension with BMR SP083 springs - 1100
PP strut tower and firewall brace - 200
lower K brace - 100
radiator - 180 (used)
19x10 lighter wheels and tires - 2200

If i'd do it again I'd get PP1 at $4000 but definitely not for $6200

 

[olerodder]

Personally, I'd drive the car and put some miles on it before I started changing everything. See how it feels to you and then start with the most important things you think it needs. It's a great car
is a lot of fun to drive.

I had a 14 TrakPak base Mustang with Recaro seats and the 301A package. I totally removed all of the TrakPak suspension and set the car up for more of a canyon carver than a car than street car. I loved the way it handled, although on the street it just wasn't the same comfortable Mustang I first purchased, which is part of the reason I sold it.

You're young and if this is your first Muscle Car, get to know the car before you start modifying it, and whatever you do; do it in stages not all at once is the only advise. I personally think if you are going to modify the car, you have the perfect car to do it with, and I agree with everyone else, that over $6k is just too much for what you get, even my $3995 was a little hard to swallow compared to my $2495 for my 14 TrakPak.

I bought a base 19 PP1/A10 w/301A and active exhaust off the lot because it was new and after driving it I liked it. I doubt I'll be putting it on road course or autocross but have already had it to
the strip with 12 runs down the 1/4 mile and an 11.93@117, not to shabby for a new car off the lot.
I put jacking rails on it, changed tire sizes and have two sets of wheels/tires. I paid $36k for the car in June of 19 and have less than 10k miles on it. I did put a red Katzkin interior in it which looks 100% better than the cloth it came with, installed a PP2 front splitter, put the FPP X pipe and dumped the OE resonator, and now I'm going to install the FPP CAI upgrade. I like the way it drives and have only done one 1300 mile road trip and absolutely loved the way the Mustang handled at triple digit "ground speed", which feels more planted in the front with the PP2 splitter.

 

[BimmerDriver]

I did put a red Katzkin interior in it ...

Looks great!

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