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Is the Performance Package worthwhile?

shogun32

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My worry is that I won't be able to do certain things that come with the Performance Package, like the stiffer Chassis, K-Brace, Stability Control, ABS, and EPAS Tuning, and things like that.
nope those are all 'trivial' bolt on packages. The $6000 for the PP1 equipment is a flagrant rip-off. For half the amount you can pick from an extensive collection of equipment that is no less equivalent if not significantly superior.
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Martin Schacht

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Hello.

I purchased my first Ford Mustang about a week ago, a 2021 Ford Mustang GT. It's got the 10-Speed Automatic, the 301A Package with the Drive Modes, and the Black Appearance Package. It does not have Active Exhaust or Magnaride Suspension.

What I'm wondering is if it would've been better to wait and try to get one with the Performance package. I'm planning on adding my own aftermarket modifications over time, but I wanted to know if it would have been better to get the Performance Package.

This being my first actual Muscle Car and my first time looking to modify a vehicle(Later on, of course.), I want to learn as much as possible to build a reliable list of modifications I want to make to the car.
I was in a similar dilemma last January. I wanted a Mustang GT 350, but the local dealers were adding a $15,000 dealer markup on top of the car $67,000 MSRP...too rich for my blood. So I decide on a Mustang GT (Deluxe) with PP2 if I could find it locally (I couldn't), or I'd settle for PP1. That's what I have the 2020 Mustang with PP1 and the 10 speed automatic. Having four modes in the 10 speed, incredible. Around town, normal mode is just fine, at the track I love Sport +, auto shifting, up and down. PP1 is awesome...I'd love to have that sound control on the exhaust...maybe Magneride...but I don't, but I do have a kick ass little car! The 6 piston Brembo calipers do the job, but will get hot...I have some air ducts on order from Vorshlag, 1 mm titanium shims that go between the pad backing and the caliper and a set of Hawk DTC 70 pads on their way. I don't want to have to deal with brake fade on the track.

Feb-27-2021-POC (Sat)-Yellow-Close Ups 155pm-BW3_0316_Feb2721_208PM_CaliPhoto.jpg


Feb-27-2021-POC (Sat)-Yellow-Riverside 410pm-BW3_3897_Feb2721_423PM_CaliPhoto.jpg
 

Norm Peterson

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nope those are all 'trivial' bolt on packages. The $6000 for the PP1 equipment is a flagrant rip-off. For half the amount you can pick from an extensive collection of equipment that is no less equivalent if not significantly superior.
If it wasn't for the different calibrations for ABS, EPAS, etc., I'd agree. But you can't duplicate them on your own after purchase. It probably doesn't matter in street driving, but it might at some point in a person's new-found track day habit. Even the base car's wrong-way-vented front rotor design can be fixed.


Norm
 

Norm Peterson

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I'm not looking to replace it so soon. More along the lines of wanting to learn more.

From what everyone's said, I was better off without the PP since I'm modifying it, anyways.

The only major loss is the TORSEN Differential and maybe the ABS/EPAS tunings.

Part of me considers keeping the car stock and then later trading it in for a Manual Transmission with the PP.
Then my suggestion to you is to do nothing at all until you've at least settled that matter. And spent some time figuring out just how you'll realistically be using this (or another) car.


Norm
 

shogun32

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f it wasn't for the different calibrations for ABS, EPAS, etc., I'd agree.
until such time as we can see what the differences are I consider that to be 99.6% poppycock. And anyway a GT is a GT. If somehow you can recognize that those settings are hampering your road course lap times because your car originally had the 4-pots and it now has the 6, you're a good enough driver to compensate.
 

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As for the Oil and Vac Gauges, I don't think I'll be needing them. And if I do, I can probably get other aftermarket gauges.
As for the oil and vac gauges. I thought they looked cool when I didn't have them on my 15&17EB prem's. I have it on my 19GT PP1, and I think I've glanced over at it maybe two or three times while driving (since december).

And now wife is complaining that the car gets so stuffy too fast. The automatic climate control sometimes switches from foot vents to dash, when it gets stuffy, but the PP1 is missing the middle one of the central vents. I didn't think that mattered, but perhaps it does make a difference that the central vent is missing on the PP1. While the outer two vents are different sizes from the central round ones, and while the calc if air flow isn't just simple as counting # of registers (as length and diameter of flow and # and type of turns in chute adds to the equation), if you ignore all of that, deleting the central vent is losing 1/5 of dash vents, and 20% reduction does sound like a big change, and I am sure ford did not make changes to fan speed to compensate for the reduced number of vents in the pp1's and above.
 

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Better brakes, bigger radiator, lower gears, better tires, more gauges, tower brace. Look at the whole list not just one item? Yes six grand is a lot of money?
 

shogun32

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And now wife is complaining that the car gets so stuffy too fast.
there's this tiny button by her right index finger. it opens a lovely vent and draws air out of the cabin at a righteous clip.
 
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shogun32

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Better brakes, bigger radiator, lower gears, better tires, more gauges, tower brace. Look at the whole list not just one item? Yes six grand is a lot of money?
the cost delta is what matters and you can buy the parts on the market for a FRACTION of the ask. That exact parts mix was 4 grand in 2019. And in 2017 it was 2500. 4 grand was unreasonable. 6 is theft.
 

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Answer is all about usage of the car.
If you track the car the perf pack is really useful. For 2 reason
1. Bigger brakes and better ABS (standard brakes are with infamous reverse rotor so no air to cool down)
2. Torsen diff

The rest can be modified easily.

If you just do street usage. Then probably not important.
Note. Long tubes are gone. For the moment..
 

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Norm Peterson

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until such time as we can see what the differences are I consider that to be 99.6% poppycock. And anyway a GT is a GT. If somehow you can recognize that those settings are hampering your road course lap times because your car originally had the 4-pots and it now has the 6, you're a good enough driver to compensate.
ABS and AdvanceTrac calibrations are generally tied in with the OE tires and brakes. If you're going to drive harder because of upgrading either or both of those things, nanny behaviors might not always be appropriate (the nannies have no way of knowing that you've got better brakes and/or grippier tires than what they were calibrated for).

Compensating for 6 pistons vs 4 is something you should really be doing with pad compounds rather than braking technique. Easing up to avoid too-early ABS activity (at either end) only leads to longer stopping distances.


Norm
 

Flyhalf

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ABS and AdvanceTrac calibrations are generally tied in with the OE tires and brakes. If you're going to drive harder because of upgrading either or both of those things, nanny behaviors might not always be appropriate (the nannies have no way of knowing that you've got better brakes and/or grippier tires than what they were calibrated for).

Compensating for 6 pistons vs 4 is something you should really be doing with pad compounds rather than braking technique. Easing up to avoid too-early ABS activity (at either end) only leads to longer stopping distances.


Norm
I would add
It's not only4 piston. Is the rotor design the real problem
 

007evan

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I just removed the pp1 suspension from my car posted a add for anybody that wants it for free can have it. I just finshed setting up my gt with konis springs the k brace rear irs kit 19 inch pp1 wheels and gt 350R sway bars. The front bar runs 155.00 dollars from the dealerAlso did the vertial links. Now the handles like it should. The pp1 suspension is not to my liking. The car will handle like it should. All my parts can from Steeda and the quality is perfect. All in All the suspension parts should run around 2400.00. I did the labor myself very easy to due. American muscle sells the koni kit for 1080.00 and the springs come with it. You need the strut bearings get new ones from ford no spring compressor is needed.
Good luck and congrats on your new mustang
 

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I would add
It's not only4 piston. Is the rotor design the real problem
There wasn't a pp available from my dealer but the car came equipped with the 355 gears so I went with that. Since I bought the car I've added 11x19 wheels in the back with 305 tires and 10x19 in the front with 275 tires. I've also added steeda sway bars, minimum drop lowering springs the strut tower brace and the extreme G track brace. Next up is new shocks and the rear stop the hop enthusiasts kit on the front I will be adding control arms and a bump steer kit. After that's finished I will add the six piston Brembo's. Then I will drive the car and think about if there's any thing else I want to add. Driving the car with what I've added so far I'm really happy it doesn't lean much when I turn and the front end doesn't dive when I hit the brakes. So far I'm really happy with the way the car handles although it does ride a bit harder but I think the new shocks will cure that. If it doesn't it's ok cause I don't mind the firmer ride. When everything is done I believe I will have a car that handles as good or better than the pp1. So far I'm really happy with how it's turning out. but in the end I'm spending almost as much buying the pp1 from Ford.
 

shogun32

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When everything is done I believe I will have a car that handles as good or better than the pp1.
it'll be massively better than the PP1. The PP1 dampers are just plain crap. If your expectations are low and you don't mod cars as a matter of principle, go ahead and buy PP1 with MR (better yet a PP2 car). Otherwise the PP1 surcharge is just wasted money you won't get back.
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