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Is Steeda ProFlow Closed CAI worth it?

Flyhalf

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The Steeda closed box CAI is not worth it. The MAF readings are erratic. You can get by with a 93 octane tune and be fine with it or possibly a straight E85 tune, but Flex Fuel won't work because it won't learn properly. Any 2018+ owner should stick with the stock box and a drop in filter.

I'm about to hook up the 2018 stock intake and Airaid tube to my 17 GT with the 2018 manifold. Summertime temps hit 102 here with 40% humidity just about daily in June\July\August.
Or...
You cover your 2018 JLT :)

BTW
Jlt > oem 18 for WHP.
20200401_193851.jpg
 

Zelek

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Or...
You cover your 2018 JLT :)

BTW
Jlt > oem 18 for WHP.
I have the 2018 JLT intake for one reason... It gets me passed inspection because the emissions stuff is mostly turned off which my tuner no longer does. While I had it on, my car dies sometimes when I pull up to stoplights. It also has very strange MAF readings with a lot of turbulence. When I switch back to my CP-E Icebox, it's back to smooth MAF readings.

The JLT definitely flows a lot of air. Not sure how different it is on the 18's versus a 17. It's great for someone who would road race because IAT's aren't a problem. As for 95% of the people on the street, I would still recommend the 2018+ stock intake with a drop in filter. Many of the tuners will tell you the same thing while you're N/A. It provides the smoothest drive and consistent power regardless of the outside temps.
 

jacknifetoaswan

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So, will the 2018 OEM air box work with the 2015-17 throttle body? I'm planning to do a 2018 manifold swap, but have to retain the 2015-style throttle body. If the air box will swap, I'd rather use that, then 2015 throttle body, then 2018 intake manifold with lockouts.

JR
 

Zelek

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So, will the 2018 OEM air box work with the 2015-17 throttle body? I'm planning to do a 2018 manifold swap, but have to retain the 2015-style throttle body. If the air box will swap, I'd rather use that, then 2015 throttle body, then 2018 intake manifold with lockouts.

JR
The throttle body is the same size. The only piece that's bigger is the air tube with the MAF.
 

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jacknifetoaswan

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The throttle body is the same size. The only piece that's bigger is the air tube with the MAF.
Thanks! I've been agonizing over which CAI to go with when I go 2018 manifold, and if the 2018 air box flows better, I'm happy to grab one...

JR
 

Flyhalf

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Or...
You cover your 2018 JLT :)

BTW
Jlt > oem 18 for WHP.
20200401_193851.jpg
My preliminary tests showed JLT+cover runs 2-3F above ambient ( same temp as OEM 18 but with more air flow). at the light, the temps don't raise more than 8F ( while only JLT can raise way more). and by the way this is still not completely sealed. Still working on it. I'll try to test it soon . it is a little challenging in these days. :)
 

Bluemustang

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I have the 2018 JLT intake for one reason... It gets me passed inspection because the emissions stuff is mostly turned off which my tuner no longer does. While I had it on, my car dies sometimes when I pull up to stoplights. It also has very strange MAF readings with a lot of turbulence. When I switch back to my CP-E Icebox, it's back to smooth MAF readings.

The JLT definitely flows a lot of air. Not sure how different it is on the 18's versus a 17. It's great for someone who would road race because IAT's aren't a problem. As for 95% of the people on the street, I would still recommend the 2018+ stock intake with a drop in filter. Many of the tuners will tell you the same thing while you're N/A. It provides the smoothest drive and consistent power regardless of the outside temps.
I wonder whether you would still get the stalling with the 110 JLT (15-17). Having tried the 120 tube, the old one feels better (and feel more power). Just spitballing
 

Zelek

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I wonder whether you would still get the stalling with the 110 JLT (15-17). Having tried the 120 tube, the old one feels better (and feel more power). Just spitballing
You're probably right. I do think the 18 JLT is too big and I don't think it's worth retuning to figure it out so I just shelve it until inspection time rolls around, lol.

Next up for me to do, 2018 stock intake box, dry flow drop in, 18 Airaid intake tube. I'll probably still hang onto my CP-E because it's still a really good intake and very smooth. Just warms up a bit faster, but not near as fast as the JLT.
 

Bluemustang

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You're probably right. I do think the 18 JLT is too big and I don't think it's worth retuning to figure it out so I just shelve it until inspection time rolls around, lol.

Next up for me to do, 2018 stock intake box, dry flow drop in, 18 Airaid intake tube. I'll probably still hang onto my CP-E because it's still a really good intake and very smooth. Just warms up a bit faster, but not near as fast as the JLT.
The CP-E was on par with the JLT in terms of flow on logs, if that helps you. You feel it in those last 500-1000 rpms. And you're right, smooth - the Cp-e.
 

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tj@steeda

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AZ18yote

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sabtaj1

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Right!!!! I just put the closed box on mine n was advised Flex is poop with it. :-(
 

AZ18yote

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Right!!!! I just put the closed box on mine n was advised Flex is poop with it. :-(
It's fine on straight pump or e but due to the above just cannot run flex. Hence why my curiosity on this new offering.
 

crcpdx

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The whole forum seems to be focus on keeping OEM 18+ cold air. But you see every youtuber & guys at the track using JLT or PMAS.
Whats the truth behind this, is it really worse than stock ? Guys are running in the high 10 with PMAS & minor bolt-ons. If its worse than stock i don't know what to say
1) 98% of the youtubers have no idea what they are talking about.
2) Science is science, lower IATs = more HP (see colder = denser charge)
3) Back when I had just an E85 tune from PBD and buddy of mine had the same set up + a JLT. My ETs were consistently .05 faster with a best of just over .1
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