IMRC DELETE is it worth it?

[K4fxd]

The IMRC's are for idle quality, emissions and cruising fuel mileage.

They get out of the way when you step on it so no real reason to get rid of them unless you go FI or swap to a different gen manifold.

You won't lose or gain power with or without them, just lose 2 or 3 MPG on the freeway.

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[Hostil]

ProCharged 2015 Mustang Picks Up Big Power With A 2018 Intake Swap

By STEVE TURNER MARCH 13, 2018
Right off the dealer lot the Gen 3 Coyote 5.0-liter engine brings a lot more to the table than its predecessors. As we shared with you, Ford engineers refined many aspects of this engine platform — from enlarging the bore size to adding a dual-fuel system — to increase its performance from 435 to 460 horsepower.

Those gains from a nearly bolt-on intake manifold at around $400 make it one of the best bang for your buck mods around… — Adrian Gomez, MAK Performance

Among those changes is a revised intake manifold that helps improve flow and extend the rev range of the engine to 7,500 RPM. In theory it seems to bridge the gap between the Gen 2 intake and the vaunted GT350 intake. So, that begs the question how it would perform as an upgrade for earlier Coyote engines?

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  Compared with the 2015 intake on the left, the 2018 Mustang intake features slightly shorter and larger runners, but retains the same basic packaging as its predecessor while offering more flow and rev potential.

Fortunately, Willy Diaz and Adrian Gomez at MAK Performance decided to test that theory on its supercharged 2015 Mustang GT. You may recall that this car performed exceptionally well thanks to the addition of a ProCharger P-1X blower, which is engineered for high-winding engines like the Coyote. Now it wears the even more capable D-1X, which delivers 11 pounds of boost when revved to 7,300 RPM and 13 psi when revved to 7,700 RPM.

The 2018 intake bolts right on to Gen 1 and Gen 2 Coyote engines and you need only decide whether you adapt the Intake Manifold Runner Control wiring — which would be preferred for a street application — or simply bypass them, which would be fine for a track-oriented ride that might not need as much low-end torque. MAK opted to adapt the IMRC wiring and run the 2018 Mustang tables to retain that low and midrange performance.
“As soon as we tested our 2018 car and saw that the dyno graph did not lay over at 6,800 RPM, we knew we would be doing some investigating into this intake,” Adrian said. “There aren’t that many affordable, sub-$1,000, bolt-on intake options for the S550. The more inexpensive intakes require extra parts and some ingenuity to get them to work.”

So far it’s far more inexpensive than the other options available, making it probably the best option when you see the results we got. — Adrian Gomez, MAK Performance

Because it is a production intake that is readily available as a replacement part for the latest Mustang, this unit sells for under $400 online and bolts right on to the earlier Coyote engines.

“The 2018 intake — if it bolted on — would require no changes or minimal ones at that,” Adrian said. “If we could address the bottom end loss of the other intakes and the top end gains in horsepower and flow without flatling, it’s the best of both worlds. It’s a test we had to try.”
“So far it’s far more inexpensive than the other options available, making it probably the best option when you see the results we got,” he added. “We haven’t done as in depth testing on the rest of the intakes on the market but from the ones we have tested this is on par or better than most other intakes we have seen.”

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  You have to admit these are impressive gains. From the midrange all the way to the redline the 2018 Mustang intake handily outperforms the 2015 intake on the D-1X-supercharged Gen 2 Coyote. Not only does it log double-digit gains from 4,100 RPM on up, but it keeps pulling 500 RPM higher to really made some impressive power. The peaks shifted from 656 horsepower and 494 lb-ft of torque to 782 horsepower and 544 lb-ft of torque.

To make it work you will need to either lock out the Intake Manifold Runner Controls or adapt the 2018 connectors to the earlier wiring harness to make them functional. From there it works pretty well, needing only some minor electronic tweaks.
“Not much tuning is require at all,” Adrian said. “We changed the IMRC tables and some other minor stuff. That’s about all it took.”
For such an easy intake swap, the results were quite impressive. The MAK team adapted the connections join the 2018 IMRCs to the 2015 harness. Then they duplicated the 2018 IMRC tables in the calibration using DiabloSport hardware and software. As a result of these changes the blown S550 picked up more than 60 horsepower and 50 lb-ft at the rear wheels.

MAK 2015 Mustang GT Mods
• Boundary oil pump and crank sprocket gears
• DiabloSport Trinity tuned by Matt Kesatie at DiabloSport and MAK Performance
• Driveshaft Shop 1,400-horsepower halfshafts
• Driveshaft Shop carbon-fiber driveshaft
• E85 fuel
• Fuel Injector Clinic 1,650cc High-Z fuel injectors
• JMS Plug ’N Play FuelMax fuel pump voltage booster
• Hooker Blackheart 1 7/8-inch long-tube headers
• Hooker Blackheart 3-inch header-back exhaust
• MAK Performance-built 6R80 six-speed auto conversion w/ FTI torque converter
• ProCharger Stage 2 System w/ D-1X blower at 10 psi
• UPR catch can for ProCharger applications



It’s hard to argue with that logic, and anecdotal internet reports show gains of 25-30 horsepower on naturally aspirated combos, so the 2018 intake swap seems like a great move for Gen 1 and Gen 2 Coyote owners on a budget.

 

[vanquishvzla]

Lmao… of course you will get more power from the +18 IM… have nothing to do with the IMRC…. What’s the point of the article here?

 

[LOL WUT]

Lmao… of course you will get more power from the +18 IM… have nothing to do with the IMRC…. What’s the point of the article here?

My thoughts as well. Now, if the chart was “with IMRC vs without IMRC” sure that’d be good information. But that is not the case at all.

 

[Red65]

The IMRC's are for idle quality, emissions and cruising fuel mileage.

They get out of the way when you step on it so no real reason to get rid of them unless you go FI or swap to a different gen manifold.

You won't lose or gain power with or without them, just lose 2 or 3 MPG on the freeway.

Interestingly enough when I swapped to catless headers and a ported 18+ manifold on my 17, I actually gained a couple mpg

 

[Austeny]

I am looking for any advice. I have a 2016 gt and I don’t want to get the 2018 manifold. I was thinking of doing the delete/ lockout in my oem manifold. Do I need a tune after that? And who sells the tune and how much?

 

[K4fxd]

I answered in your other thread, but why do you want them locked out?

 

[vanquishvzla]

I am looking for any advice. I have a 2016 gt and I don’t want to get the 2018 manifold. I was thinking of doing the delete/ lockout in my oem manifold. Do I need a tune after that? And who sells the tune and how much?

Why would you do that? 857% pointless... and yes, you will need a totally pointless tune...

 

[Seanay]

Why would you do that? 857% pointless... and yes, you will need a totally pointless tune...

Probably cuz u cant buy oem 15 - 17 manifolds due Ford pulling them off shelf. If hes not looking for more power or going turbo or blower then probably saves on buying the 18 to 21 manis, about 450 bux.

 

[K4fxd]

If his CMCV shaft or shafts are broken he needs a new manifold anyway. A lockout won't fix the problem.

Did Ford discontinue the 2 gen mani or is it just back-ordered. When I needed a fender every site said unavailable. When I called an actual dealer I was told it is back-ordered.

 

[vanquishvzla]

Probably cuz u cant buy oem 15 - 17 manifolds due Ford pulling them off shelf. If hes not looking for more power or going turbo or blower then probably saves on buying the 18 to 21 manis, about 450 bux.

if you already have one, why would you buy another? still pointless... if they are not new, you can find a used one for like $50 in case that for some mysterious reason, you need to replace your oem one

 

[blue5.slow]

It’s not so much a “high rpm position” since the IMRC’s open the runner valves almost immediately when going WOT, regardless of RPM. They are there to help increase the air velocity inside the runner when off-idle or cruising. Having an automatic car, you most likely won’t notice a difference, especially if the car is tuned since these cars have a ton of low end torque left on the table with the factory calibration. You have more of a chance in feeling the torque loss that technically comes with the IMRC lockout in a manual car, but many forum users with manual cars (including myself) don’t really notice the loss when driving.

For me, the benefits of not dealing with tuning issues, as well as the possibility of the IMRC system breaking made the lockouts an easy choice for me. My setup technically has less torque already since I went from the 15-17 intake manifold to a ported 2018 and I haven’t really noticed any real loss when driving the car.

*less low end torque

 

[Seanay]

if you already have one, why would you buy another? still pointless... if they are not new, you can find a used one for like $50 in case that for some mysterious reason, you need to replace your oem one
[/QUOTEHis current one is throwing the P-3--

His current oem manifold on a 16, is throwing the p0300 and p0302 codes, likely the imrc valves.
You can not buy a 15 to 17 manifold anymore? With me still?
So you have to buy a 18+ if you need to replace the manifold. But you have to tune it period after.
So looking at around $450 plus tax for mani, tune guessing 300 and then if a shop does install another $400??
He's saying instead of buying a 18+ mani and then paying for the mani and a tune, would he just be able to do the lockout/delete on his current one and if yes, does he need a tune since it is not being upgraded to the 18+ Manifold...i hope this makes sense
No one is saying he wants to buy another one

 

[K4fxd]

His current oem manifold on a 16, is throwing the p0300 and p0302 codes, likely the imrc valves.

CMCV. Charge Motion Control Valves.

You can not buy a 15 to 17 manifold anymore?

Not sure if this is true.

So you have to buy a 18+ if you need to replace the manifold.

No, the easiest thing to do is buy a GT350 manifold and an adapter for your current TB. This is a plug and play swap. No tune required. Although a tune will get the most out of the better manifold.

350 manifolds come up for sale in the classifieds several times a year.

His other question is if he locks out the CMCV's on his current manifold will it fix the problem and will it need a tune.

Answer

If the CMCV's are broke the lock outs will not fix the problem. If he does use lock outs he will need a tune for them being locked out as the stock tune relies on then rather heavily.

There is no performance advantage to locking them out.

 

[Seanay]

CMCV. Charge Motion Control Valves.

Not sure if this is true.

No, the easiest thing to do is buy a GT350 manifold and an adapter for your current TB. This is a plug and play swap. No tune required. Although a tune will get the most out of the better manifold.

350 manifolds come up for sale in the classifieds several times a year.

His other question is if he locks out the CMCV's on his current manifold will it fix the problem and will it need a tune.

Answer

If the CMCV's are broke the lock outs will not fix the problem. If he does use lock outs he will need a tune for them being locked out as the stock tune relies on then rather heavily.

There is no performance advantage to locking them out.

According to Leavittown Ford and another local they are no longer being sold and a quick search online confirms this, 15 to 17 are gone, not made or whatever ford did see a few used on ebay. I thought for sure gt350 manifolds would need a retune, good to know.

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