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One of my favorite things about the GT350's here in full race trim is the fact that they still use an OEM closed airbox. I know there's power limits but it still shows that the factory GT airbox works well.

My boss’s 16 explorer started leaking coolant out of the weep hole. Local dealership quoted him ~3600 to do the pump and timing chains, which they insisted on since he was over 100k

The exact numbers themselves don't matter. The fact that the new Gen 2 Cobra Jet makes the exact same power everywhere in the curve to the Gen 1 on the same car back-to-back tells you everything you need to know.

Granted, but improper roll center affects both in the same way. It’s more of a general suspension tuning principle than an effect of a specific suspension design.

Either those or the K member are necessary if you want to correct your roll center. Obviously, you can drive the car as-is, but it won't perform well unless the roll center is corrected one way or another. Personally, I feel like the K member is the best way to do it, but guys here have used the...

They will help correct your roll center after dropping the car that much. They just offset the balljoint to keep the lateral link level. Normally, if you just lower the car it will place the link pivot point below the balljoint on the hub, which causes the car to have excessive body roll in...

I had Safelite install a front windshield and they did not request for the car to be driven to calibrate anything. I also used them when someone busted my rear window out and their technician scratched up the paint around the rear window frame something fierce. Looks like the guy took his hand...

Like I said at the top, only a couple millimeters down on the stick

Depends on how much my foot is in it lol. I mostly go off of the oil life meter since it factors in how hard it gets driven. But I'd guess around 3000-4000 miles

Im aware. I should've also included that throughout the interval, the oil level as a whole doesn't drop by any noticeable amount. Maybe a couple millimeters down from where it initially sits.

Tracked the oil that my JLT 3.0 catch can had in it as I checked it periodically across an entire oil change interval. The car is daily driven at 73,000 miles and very often sees highly spirited driving and 7500-7600 rpm. The oil is 5w-30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, but I haven’t noticed any real...

For this reason, I am thankful I bought my 93 F250 before the prices went retarded. It has the 7.3 IDI and a ZF5 manual that I swapped in. It is super cheap to maintain, pulls everything I hook up or put on it, and never complains. I'll never sell that truck.

I know it plays a big role but I've mentioned the shoe preference to people before and they looked at me weird. Just felt like it wasnt a common thing to most

I’m glad to know that I’m not the only one picky about what kind of shoes I drive with. For me, vans work pretty well. Heard pumas are about the closest feel to racing shoes. One thing I can’t stand is the rubber inserts on the factory pedals

100% need to clock your bushings. Sounds like they are bound up.

It also would help changing from the stock clutch itself. Bone stock they are pretty awful in terms of predictability and feel. Im changing mine out for a Exedy Mach 500 here soon. A couple of my buddies' cars have aftermarket units and it's amazing how much better theirs feel, especially when...

If you're still running the original intake on the car, I could see where he is coming from somewhat since naturally the IMRC's work as intended. But I know for Gen 1 and 2 cars swapping to a 2018+ manifold, majority of tuners recommend locking the IMRC's out because it takes some work to get...

Not trying to hijack, I'm just trying to see if there's any pattern here. Anyone with a manual Gen 2 car tuned by Lund have any rev hang issues? Mods: 2018+ OEM CAI, 1320Junkie ported 18 IM w/ lockouts, ARH catless longtubes Mine does it something fierce if I shift under 2k rpm. When I...

You better cross your fingers that they don't total it. If they don't, I will be very surprised. Honestly, filing this on insurance should have been avoided if possible.

Better be careful how you handle this. There’s a good chance insurance would take 1 look at that and total the car. They don’t play around with any form of frame damage. I’ve seen cars at copart that were totaled because someone grounded the car on a bump and flattened a couple pinch welds. Best...