cold air intake is it worth it?

[GregO]

NASA tests with hood open

Ok, we’re talking about two different things.
Now I see your perspective.

Testing for parity
vs.
R&D

Your highlighted statement is subjective and is not mandatory. Front engine cars w/hood open to allow heat dissipation has merit.

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[Flyhalf]

I saw Many people. Saying "real test on dyno is with the hood down" .
I must confess i was one of those guys saying" it makes sense cause we run witht he hood closed.
But more expert people ,including team managers of fast race cars told me the story about the air.
'U simulate speed of 150-160. You generate energy(and heat ). To bring your car at those speed. With the issue then you dont have a fan going 160mph also big like the car you are measuring. So the heat u creates is not dissipated, amd also you don't have the ram effect for your intake. So hood up helps dissipate the heat and increase air flow ( wich will be the same with 160mph wind pushed into the intake)
So i test them. I love testing. I test also oem vs Borla atak(btw 12-14whp)
The 91oct tune the 96 tune
I'll keep testing in case i close the JLT. and of course if i try the e85.
Unfortunately i can't stamd on comments like " i felt the car better " after imstallimg that.

 

[WildHorse]

So hood up helps dissipate the heat and increase air flow ( wich will be the same with 160mph wind pushed into the intake)

Doesn't work that way in RL. Hood down traps the heat, hood up allows to escape. Also, 160 mph head wind your lucky if you get 45 mph entering the airbox on the road. Remember, that's a lot of high pressure up front.

 

[Flyhalf]

Doesn't work that way in RL. Hood down traps the heat, hood up allows to escape. Also, 160 mph head wind your lucky if you get 45 mph entering the airbox on the road. Remember, that's a lot of high pressure up front.

Because a lot of pressure the airbox is a lower pressure area so air tends to go there.
For the heat. Well in a normal situation (without my vents) you still have lots of air going under and a some exiting the gap with the wind shield.
But agreed that warm air is bad so..
Starting a new project..
Plexiglass cover.
I have a couple of ideas but still a work in progress. Main issue is the topbox plastic is not leveled. So i need to fill gaps and find a way to close the plexiglass cause the plastic width is not much. Keep you posted..

 

[WildHorse]

I have a couple of ideas but still a work in progress. Main issue is the topbox plastic is not leveled. So i need to fill gaps and find a way to close the plexiglass cause the plastic width is not much. Keep you posted..

Hi, I tried all that already. Another problem with the JLT is that it sits too close to the engine / exhaust / rad. Heat soak central. But like I said earlier, it'll probably work at the track, but the way I look at it. Ford GT4 Mustangs use the stock airbox. good enough for me ;)

For the plexiglass the easiest way would be to bake it in an over, then while wearing think gloves, after it softens up take it a mold it around the airbox. Old school, but works very well. Then you'd have to attach it somehow.

 

[GregO]

Because a lot of pressure the airbox is a lower pressure area so air tends to go there.
For the heat. Well in a normal situation (without my vents) you still have lots of air going under and a some exiting the gap with the wind shield.
But agreed that warm air is bad so..
Starting a new project..

The ultra high CFM CAI guaranteeing zero chance of low pressure reversion and hot air invasion.
You might sleep better with a tighter mesh screen. Or better yet use GREEN FILTER USA to keep track debris out.

 

[Flyhalf]

The ultimate high CFM CAI guaranteeing zero chance of low pressure reversion and hot air invasion.
You might sleep better with a tighter mesh screen. Or GREEN FILTER USA to keep track debris out.

That is the only filter?

 

[GregO]

That is the only filter?

That’s a picture of a home brew concoction I tossed up just for an example what folks will do for more CFM’s. Here’s the thread.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/air-in-take-filter.124245/page-10

I advocate GREEN FILTER USA, highest drop-in WOT CFM currently available.
I’m sure there’s dust issues on your tracks so an open mesh drag race style screen filter is counterproductive and will prematurely grind down your piston rings on a road race track.

 

[Flyhalf]

That’s a home brew concoction I tossed up just for an example what folks will do for more CFM’s. Here’s the thread.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/air-in-take-filter.124245/page-10

I advocate GREEN FILTER USA, great WOT CFM.
I’m sure there’s dust issues on your tracks so an open mesh drag race style screen filter is counterproductive and will prematurely grind down your piston rings on a road race track.

Totally. I wanna go faster. But i still need a car that works to go faster

 

[WildHorse]

Hmmmm interesting what you did to the filter. But that would be a 1/4 mile only type of thing. No way I'd run that for any extended period of time. Like street/track. K&N are half as thick as the stock filter, with more cfm / better filtration / more power as tested by Jason @ Engineering Explained.

 

[GregO]

Hmmmm interesting what you did to the filter. But that would be a 1/4 mile only type of thing

"Zinc03svt" gets the credit for his modded OEM ultra high flow filter.
Yes, Drag Strip only.

 

[Zinc03svt]

Lol. Not recommended for dirt roads, spring pollen, high bug traffic. ;).

 

[Remy_reign]

Because a lot of pressure the airbox is a lower pressure area so air tends to go there.
For the heat. Well in a normal situation (without my vents) you still have lots of air going under and a some exiting the gap with the wind shield.
But agreed that warm air is bad so..
Starting a new project..
Plexiglass cover.
I have a couple of ideas but still a work in progress. Main issue is the topbox plastic is not leveled. So i need to fill gaps and find a way to close the plexiglass cause the plastic width is not much. Keep you posted..

Interested in seeing what you come up with.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

Is it worth it?

What’s your end goal?

There’s other mods that offer better bang for the buck. If you’re going to tune the car, sure. It won’t be the bottleneck in the system and the tuner can compensate for the larger opening around the MAF.

IAT’s are a serious issue with any “cold air” intake if you aren’t moving at speed. So plan to shit yourself when you see 160* IAT’s and your Stang feels like hot dogshit until you get some air moving to bring it down.

 

[Nate_V8]

I read somewhere for a gen 2 that using a 2018+ stock airbox is an upgrade as it's a little bigger yet still keeps the IATs low because stock airbox. At the same time though I am very interested in the steeda CAI but haven't found enough info on it from non steeda sources

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