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I need a sub box (help)

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I have two JL Audio 8W7’s and I’m having a hell of a time finding a box!

Id also like to change out all of the speaker and I’m curious, is there any plug and play harnesses or do all the speakers wiring have to cut and splice into the factory harness?
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Contact zenclosures.com for one of their Type 1 boxes: https://www.zenclosures.com/2015-Mustang-Subwoofer-Box-p/mustang15t1rf.htm Just send them the hole diameter for the 8W7s.

Regarding speaker harnesses, are you using the stock amplifier or a new amplifier?
OF5.0 I’d like to use my JL HD1200 for the subs, but if possible I’d like to change out the other 9 speakers and not clip any wires. In my other vehicle I was about to use a processor and I found a company that made these pigtail type harnesses that plugged into the factory plug but had the push on ends to the new aftermarket speakers if that makes sense?

PS - I looked at zenclosures, that box is only 1.5 cubic feet. 2 8w7’s require 1.87 cubic feet sealed. :/
 

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OF5.0 I’d like to use my JL HD1200 for the subs, but if possible I’d like to change out the other 9 speakers and not clip any wires. In my other vehicle I was about to use a processor and I found a company that made these pigtail type harnesses that plugged into the factory plug but had the push on ends to the new aftermarket speakers if that makes sense?

PS - I looked at zenclosures, that box is only 1.5 cubic feet. 2 8w7’s require 1.87 cubic feet sealed. :/
Two 8W7s, sealed, needs 1.75 cubic feet per JL’s recommendations.

E1580D65-CEDD-4DEF-8823-FBD95CA5C74A.jpeg
 

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There are only 6.5“ speaker plug-and-play harnesses, otherwise you’ll have to make your own for the midranges and tweeters. Keep in mind that you’ll need a passive crossover for each tweeter and midrange as the factory wiring is run in parallel for those speakers using the stock amplifier. If you use an aftermarket amplifier, you can use your fabricated midrange speaker harnesses and use a Maestro iDatalink harness to connect your amplifier to the stock wiring without cutting. You will have to run new tweeter wires, but that is a good thing as you won’t need speaker harnesses for the tweeters. Check out my thread for the midrange speaker harnesses.
 

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Two 8W7s, sealed, needs 1.75 cubic feet per JL’s recommendations.

E1580D65-CEDD-4DEF-8823-FBD95CA5C74A.jpeg
You are leaving out driver displacement which is .06 for the 8w7. Which makes Gross vol. per sub at 0.935
 

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You are leaving out driver displacement which is .06 for the 8w7. Which makes Gross vol. per sub at 0.935
I’d contact them about a minor box size adjustment.
 
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There are only 6.5“ speaker plug-and-play harnesses, otherwise you’ll have to make your own for the midranges and tweeters. Keep in mind that you’ll need a passive crossover for each tweeter and midrange as the factory wiring is run in parallel for those speakers using the stock amplifier. If you use an aftermarket amplifier, you can use your fabricated midrange speaker harnesses and use a Maestro iDatalink harness to connect your amplifier to the stock wiring without cutting. You will have to run new tweeter wires, but that is a good thing as you won’t need speaker harnesses for the tweeters. Check out my thread for the midrange speaker harnesses.
OF I was thinking of doing JL C7’s and I believe the tweeters are active. I have a JL vx800/8i amp. And I was thinking of getting a JL dsp, what do you think? I need to get with you to plan this out 😂
 

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OF I was thinking of doing JL C7’s and I believe the tweeters are active. I have a JL vx800/8i amp. And I was thinking of getting a JL dsp, what do you think? I need to get with you to plan this out 😂
If you have a VX800/8i amplifier, you don’t need a DSP, it’s already built into the amp.
 
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If you have a VX800/8i amplifier, you don’t need a DSP, it’s already built into the amp.
Damn I just looked at the box, I hadn’t realized it was built into the amp. Soon if you are up for it, since we don’t have some harnesses I’d like to touch base with you to really plan this out for connectors and so on if that’s cool?
 

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You just need a Maestro iDatalink AR unit with the Maestro iDatalink aFO3 harness (9-speaker system) or aFO2 harness (12-speaker B&O or Shaker Pro systems). Connect the AR’s outputs to the inputs of your VX800/8i amp. I’d use JL’s XD-CLRAIC2-SW adapters for those connections.
 
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You just need a Maestro iDatalink AR unit with the Maestro iDatalink aFO3 harness (9-speaker system) or aFO2 harness (12-speaker B&O or Shaker Pro systems). Connect the AR’s outputs to the inputs of your VX800/8i amp. I’d use JL’s XD-CLRAIC2-SW adapters for those connections.
OF5.0 so I heard back from zenclosure and they won’t increase the vol. of the box. Their box is 1.74 cu. ft. I need a min of 1.87. I went and measured the trunk opening and I get 12” at the narrowest 42” wide and 18” tall. Then I was like hmmm what about behind the seat? I got 16” high, up to 15” deep and 38” wide. Did a quick calculation and a 14x36x9 box = 1.872 cu. ft. There seems to be plenty of room. Did I measure something wrong? I don’t see why they will decrease the vol but can’t increase it a little. I’m stumped.
 

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OF5.0 so I heard back from zenclosure and they won’t increase the vol. of the box. Their box is 1.74 cu. ft. I need a min of 1.87. I went and measured the trunk opening and I get 12” at the narrowest 42” wide and 18” tall. Then I was like hmmm what about behind the seat? I got 16” high, up to 15” deep and 38” wide. Did a quick calculation and a 14x36x9 box = 1.872 cu. ft. There seems to be plenty of room. Did I measure something wrong? I don’t see why they will decrease the vol but can’t increase it a little. I’m stumped.
Getting a custom box made sounds like your only option. The box size opening behind the rear seat is hampered by the metal drop downs on both sides under the rear deck. You are also limited on box size due to the trunk opening. Zenclosures’ Type 2 box only fits in the trunk one way or so it seems. The box construction is very good other than their terminal cups, but that’s an easy fix.
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