UserName
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I too am using a Zenclosure, although it’s not as tight fitting as yours. I had to use metal straps to keep it firmly in place. The bolts went through existing holes if I remember correctly.
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Have a custom sub box? How is it anchored down? Post pics.
- Thread starter mikes2017gt
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mikes2017gt
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Thanks for posting, @UserName I plan to start working on my sub box next week, when my 12W6 sub gets here. I decided to do something different; I'm going to be using a round port vs. a slot port. But not just a piece of PVC; I'll be using a 4" PrecisionPort.
https://www.parts-express.com/precision-port-4-flared-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-kit--268-352
It models well in WinISD and will be much easier to use vs. a slot port with a slanted-back cab, like I'm intending to build. Should turn out well.
My intention is to mount the box using a combination of bent steel brackets up top like you did, and rivet nuts in the floor of the trunk, attached to sturdy L-brackets, which are screwed to the box.
I want to build a trim panel to cover it all, but my box will most likely be side-ported, so I'll have to figure out how to build a "speaker grill" into the trim panel so the vent can breathe into the trunk.
https://www.parts-express.com/precision-port-4-flared-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-kit--268-352
It models well in WinISD and will be much easier to use vs. a slot port with a slanted-back cab, like I'm intending to build. Should turn out well.
My intention is to mount the box using a combination of bent steel brackets up top like you did, and rivet nuts in the floor of the trunk, attached to sturdy L-brackets, which are screwed to the box.
I want to build a trim panel to cover it all, but my box will most likely be side-ported, so I'll have to figure out how to build a "speaker grill" into the trim panel so the vent can breathe into the trunk.
Cathul
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@mikes2017gt
is that thread yours over there at diyma?
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/subwoofer-anchor-methods.434885/page-2#post-5912689
is that thread yours over there at diyma?
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/subwoofer-anchor-methods.434885/page-2#post-5912689
StangTime
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That's mine actually.
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StangTime
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Absolutely. Rock solid to this day. These were the best solution I could find. They work great but you need to be VERY precise with them otherwise they will not slide together. Also watch out for the locking tab feature. They will lock in place and require a tool to release them. I made the mistake of twisting my sub enclosure when installing it when I only had one cleat locked in. I broke it and had to order more. I installed the new one and forgot to cut off the locking tab. Installed the subwoofer and couldn't get the sub out again. LOL. I had to make a special hook tool to press the locking tab down to release my sub.
I bought the Striplox here (size small). The come in a pack of 4 pairs: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...ctors/73184-striplox-surface-mount-connectors
I believe they ship internationally.
Evolvd
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There’s another method available that may or may not have been mentioned here…I didn’t read every page to find out.
Just aft of the rear seats there are two grommets on the trunk floor, one just inside the wire bundle on the drivers side of the floor and another on the passenger side. They are the size of a quarter or so. Under the car they are just forward of the gas tank above the differential. You can run a stainless 3/8” bolt through these holes with a 3/8” piece of fuel hose as a spacer/snubber to prevent the bolt running against the sheet metal. Using 3/8” x 1.5” fender washers and silicon washer will seal the bottom of the hole. These bolts are far enough forward to mount brackets or even to pass through into your enclosure where you can add more fender washers and nylock nuts.
Only downside is that you have to have your subs removed from the enclosure to do this but once it’s bolted down it’s not going anywhere and it’ll be next to impossible to steal.
Just aft of the rear seats there are two grommets on the trunk floor, one just inside the wire bundle on the drivers side of the floor and another on the passenger side. They are the size of a quarter or so. Under the car they are just forward of the gas tank above the differential. You can run a stainless 3/8” bolt through these holes with a 3/8” piece of fuel hose as a spacer/snubber to prevent the bolt running against the sheet metal. Using 3/8” x 1.5” fender washers and silicon washer will seal the bottom of the hole. These bolts are far enough forward to mount brackets or even to pass through into your enclosure where you can add more fender washers and nylock nuts.
Only downside is that you have to have your subs removed from the enclosure to do this but once it’s bolted down it’s not going anywhere and it’ll be next to impossible to steal.
xl_cheese
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...commenting on old thread. Years ago I had a bronco II with 2 x12 subs in the back. I built the box and attached it to the rear seats so it would fold down with them. There was no pullling that box off. Then one day this car was broken into. They stole the amp, but not the subs. I was at first relieved they didnt' steal the subs. However, a week later I noticed that they poked holes in the subs with something like a screwdriver.
joe603
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When you take out that JL Stealthbox...let me know how you resolve the holes in the trunk carpet from the bracket. I'm still working on mine...need some free time to finish off the trunk with an acrylic piece I had made.
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