HPDE and Track Events

[TundraOnKings]

I would move to a better rotor setup. You can bump to a higher temp pad, G16/G18 will only gain 200/300 degrees. (1800 to 2000). Do you have any brake cooling mods? I pulled my rotor rock covers, and ran the larger wind vanes that a member on here sold, they bolt right up, and I think that helped some.
And of course always fresh high temp brake fluid.
I absolutely love the brakes on my S550.

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[TundraOnKings]

Yep, I’d jump to an R10 in the rear. I bet if you pop off those rotor rock shields, you’ll notice a rotor temp drop that’s significant. Doesn’t take much time at all to do, as it’s only 2 bolts IIRC.

 

[jmagnus87]

Hey all,
Novice driver here with wayyy too much power for the track but it's fun to say the least.
My question is this, i'm losing a ton of speed in the corners (all mods in signature) in comparison to other cars on track anyway. All 3 instructors on all 3 track days said i did very well and was above average in learning the track and following the lines. HOWEVER, i was slower than the other 5 mustangs there by roughly 15 seconds. Is this something that could likely be cured with seat time? are the adjustable camber plates like an absolute must have for the mustang? Also only seeing 1.07 lateral G but car slid quite a few times yesterday at Palmer Motorsports in Mass. i would think the 345s after getting so hot they're peeling tread off would stick for higher G numbers?

What am i doing wrong here?

 

[GTP]

Yes you absolutely need camber plates. Push the top of the strut all the way inboard until it stops. That will get you about 2.7 degrees of camber, providing more grip and lower wear.

I put my struts back to center in their tower holes before leaving the track.

 

[jmagnus87]

Yes you absolutely need camber plates. Push the top of the strut all the way inboard until it stops. That will get you about 2.7 degrees of camber, providing more grip and lower wear.

I put my struts back to center in their tower holes before leaving the track.

Ok and do you notice any "wobble" or float from that on the straights? Guy yesterday was saying how on the straight it was already like driving on drag skinnys

 

[NightmareMoon]

What you need is to not have Nittos. That explains the low lateral Gs, although 1.07 aint bad for a rookie.

Camber plates will help the tires last and will decrease tire shoulder overheating, but the Nittos are the core of the grip issue. Camber plates can only do so much to help, the tire is the thing touching the road

Doesnt matter how wide the tires are if the tire compound is low quality.

In this case the melted apperance of the tire tells you that Nitto was too hot for its optimal grip. Other tires will work better in that melty heat range.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Best not to worry too much about other mustangs going faster.

90% of lap times is the driver, not the car. When your ego tries to go faster than your skill allows, thats when bad things happen, and quickly. Just chase improving your own times.

 

[MrBD1348]

What you need is to not have Nittos. That explains the low lateral Gs, although 1.07 aint bad for a rookie.

Camber plates will help the tires last and will decrease tire shoulder overheating, but the Nittos are the core of the grip issue. Camber plates can only do so much to help, the tire is the thing touching the road

Doesnt matter how wide the tires are if the tire compound is low quality.

In this case the melted apperance of the tire tells you that Nitto was too hot for its optimal grip. Other tires will work better in that melty heat range.

I agree with the nitto comment. Currently running Nitto’s and they are absolutely my weak point. Also triple check pressures on them. If they’re squealing a lot (mine were yesterday) then add pressure to them. I cut 7 seconds off my time with that alone

 

[MrBD1348]

I would love to know how the ESS build held up in terms of heat. After seeing how much work it takes to control the temps in these cars I’ve been avoiding adding boost simply because I enjoy track events

 

[jmagnus87]

What you need is to not have Nittos. That explains the low lateral Gs, although 1.07 aint bad for a rookie.

Camber plates will help the tires last and will decrease tire shoulder overheating, but the Nittos are the core of the grip issue. Camber plates can only do so much to help, the tire is the thing touching the road

Doesnt matter how wide the tires are if the tire compound is low quality.

In this case the melted apperance of the tire tells you that Nitto was too hot for its optimal grip. Other tires will work better in that melty heat range.

Would you recommend full race slicks? They're actually cheaper than nice Michelins or same price as the toyo 888 things there in that size.

@***** i didn't find that the car had excessive roll nor did the instructor but definitely turn in was a weak point. I've also been to track days on full stock configuration with just IRS bushings nothing else and had way less corner exit capability. The345s are at least nice for that but the tires and wheels were a really good deal locally. it's not a racecar, i only see a few track days a year. Those tires are mostly for fun on the street.
@MrBD1348 the CHTs did get fairly high (241*F) running the car in third in boost the majority of the first few sessions for sure she was not happy. As i got faster and carried more speed through the corners i was able to use 4th and she was cool as a cucumber at 217*F max the rest of the day. No diff cooling none of that extra stuff no boxed radiator nothing. In fact there's a pretty large intercooler blocking my radiator but I'll certainly say that boost certainly didn't help my case on track being a novice and all because using third, the throttle was like an on/off switch

 

[NightmareMoon]

No for a novice I would not recommend race slicks. Learn on something slower which has good feedback and a progressive breakaway. The goal should be lap time but driver skill improvement. Lap times come as a result. “If you can’t drive a slow car fast…”

If you arent going to see the track more than a 2-3 times a year then its hard to buy tires just for that. Run your nittos until the give up and then look at something better, unless you’re willing to own two sets of wheels, (one street, one track set) and then we can talk.

 

[jmagnus87]

No for a novice I would not recommend race slicks. Learn on something slower which has good feedback and a progressive breakaway. The goal should be lap time but driver skill improvement. Lap times come as a result. “If you can’t drive a slow car fast…”

If you arent going to see the track more than a 2-3 times a year then its hard to buy tires just for that. Run your nittos until the give up and then look at something better, unless you’re willing to own two sets of wheels, (one street, one track set) and then we can talk.

i already own two full sets of tires and wheels. my factory PP1 wheels have conti extreme contact DWS on them with factory sizes. please note the S in DWS indicating they are all seasons. they're ok on the street but not fun in summer. i have to switch to them here in october anyway cuz it's getting too cold for summer tires anyway. so again, what tire should i wrap around the SVE 350 wheels? i believe the fronts are 11x19 and the rears are defintiely 12x19 ill gladly go less width on the rear if you think it would help corners.
but there's two parts to the corner, entry and exit. and personally, i like to be able to hammer out of a corner but take it a bit slower on entry. ideally, would rather just carry speed all the way through though and not need so much power to put down on exit, which i believe is the point of being able to drive a slow car fast. but i'm not selling my mustang to buy a miata to learn

edit: i have also considered swapping pulleys to really de-tune the supercharger to make that more user friendly, but once using 4th gear, i dont think the supercharger was hurting me rather than helping on certain spots. that track also has like a total of 500ft in elevation changes throughout the course. having some extra low end was certainly real nice to have going straight uphill through some of it.

 

[WItoTX]

Yep, ditch the nittos. Also, if I understand your set up correctly, you have a 345 on a 12" rim? If so, I'd argue that is WAY too much tire for the rim. Ideally, you want tires slightly stretched. That will give you a much more responsive feel in the car at turn in, and TBH, all around.

TireRack shows how wide each tire is (315 is variable depending on the MFG), and if you have have a tire slightly stretched, and ideally a square set up, your car will feel much more balanced. If your rim is 11" rim, you want a tread contact patch about 10.75" to 11". IMO.

I used to run a 315 on an 11.5" rim on the rear, and went down to a 305 because I wanted that stretched wheel. My run times have dropped, and the car rotates when I ask it to, and has gotten incredibly predictable.

Also, based on your description, going into the corner slowly is indicative that you are not 100% certain how the car is going to react as you go into the corner (That's what it was for me at least). That is where seat time comes into play. The more you drive, the more that comfort will come to you, and the faster your entry will become.

Good luck, and enjoy the hobby!

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