Track Prep for HPDE/PDX/Track Day

[Competition Orange]

I'm running Redline 75w140 gear oil in the diff and have yet to see the rear diff heat warning (but then I didn't get the warning with the factory oil either). I also added some heat wrap around the exhaust pipes where they go around the diff to help manage the heat down there.

I'm running the BG syncro shift II transmission oil, but honestly I didn't notice much of a difference over the stock transmission oil. The BG stuff works fine, but I'd call it completely optional.

Square tires, camber plates for sure... and some way to hold you securely in your seat.

Stock PP swaybar endlinks bend pretty easily, although not usually enough to be detected from the driver's seat.

You can overdrive the stock brake pads, but usually only on tracks that are tougher than average on brakes. If you're advanced group, brake pads are a good idea.

I felt a bit of an improvement immediately after the BG trans fluid, but seemed to revert back to normal feeling within just a month or so. I wanted it changed since i was/am tracking it, but should be fine with OEM for your first fill.

I'm running Endless brake fluid (should be here Thursday), Millers Oil 75w110 diff as well.

My endlinks are slightly bent with factory bars, but as stated, not enough to notice and aren't getting worse.

Stock pads overheated pretty easily at mid ohio on back straight after a few laps. Then again, so did Gloc R10s. I'd add cooling ducts and Ti shims before pads personally. Then move onto pads.

Camber bolts are enough for -3 degrees of camber too.

Square tires and camber were the 2 best mods I've done.

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[Brooks_Church]

I'm running Redline 75w140 gear oil in the diff and have yet to see the rear diff heat warning (but then I didn't get the warning with the factory oil either). I also added some heat wrap around the exhaust pipes where they go around the diff to help manage the heat down there.

I'm running the BG syncro shift II transmission oil, but honestly I didn't notice much of a difference over the stock transmission oil. The BG stuff works fine, but I'd call it completely optional.

Square tires, camber plates for sure... and some way to hold you securely in your seat.

Stock PP swaybar endlinks bend pretty easily, although not usually enough to be detected from the driver's seat.

You can overdrive the stock brake pads, but usually only on tracks that are tougher than average on brakes. If you're advanced group, brake pads are a good idea.

I am think i am going to try this BG oil that everyone keeps recommending for the S550's.

At some point I will get all new adjustable arms and beefy sway bar end links. Already have Steeda IRS bracing and jack rails.

Plan on getting a new drivers seat for events and Schroth Quickfit harnesses.

I am not super hard on brakes but I know I will cook factory pads and fluid pretty quick at Mid-Ohio. Road Atlanta actually seemed much better on brakes than Mid-Ohio.

I will be running Advanced/ Instructor group.

 

[Brooks_Church]

I felt a bit of an improvement immediately after the BG trans fluid, but seemed to revert back to normal feeling within just a month or so. I wanted it changed since i was/am tracking it, but should be fine with OEM for your first fill.

I'm running Endless brake fluid (should be here Thursday), Millers Oil 75w110 diff as well.

My endlinks are slightly bent with factory bars, but as stated, not enough to notice and aren't getting worse.

Stock pads overheated pretty easily at mid ohio on back straight after a few laps. Then again, so did Gloc R10s. I'd add cooling ducts and Ti shims before pads personally. Then move onto pads.

Camber bolts are enough for -3 degrees of camber too.

Square tires and camber were the 2 best mods I've done.

Think the BG fluid will be ordered tomorrow.

What brake lines are you running? Was planning on doing Motul RBF660 since it is easily found. But might look into something else.

 

[Competition Orange]

Factory lines.

Full mod list: ftbr trans bracket, fp toe link to knuckle bearing, steeda rlca bearing, BMR cb005, BMR handling springs, BMR camber bolts, gloc r16f r8r pads, ftbr brake cooling ducts, arp 1/2" front studs, op mustang 15mm hub centric spacers, 18x10 square with 275 street and 18x10 305 pirelli dh slicks track.

Pmd

 

[higdominator]

I've tested the Track Day pads at TWS. I didn't like them as much as a proper track pad. They wear very fast and just don't have the bite or consistency to properly brake at the last marker. Modulation was iffy.

I much prefer R12's. They are leaps and bounds better, especially on a track that is hard on brakes (TWS is not).

A square setup, camber plates, adjustable sway bars with beefier end links (I bent the OEM in 1 track day on stock bars), fresh fluids, RBF600 at a minimum with track oriented pads, and some brake cooling and you will have a very capable stock-ish car.

An oil cooler is a must in warmer weather, my car would easily get into the yellow in high 80's ambient. The Mishi is a nice package, but I would rather have a solid Setrab core and an adapter plate of your choosing (thermostatic mishi or Canton).

 

[Brooks_Church]

I think I am going to change out the trans fluid to the BG II and maybe get diff fluid too. But the question is, being a daily driver, can I run the 140 or is that too much for daily use? [MENTION=22413]Optimum Performance[/MENTION]. Not sure how to tag people in this.

 

[wildcatgoal]

I use 140 on the street. No issues, no concerns. Redline makes a 110 weight if you're concerned. Torsen themselves likes 140 (I asked).

 

[F0J]

...

For tires, I keep wanting to try RE-11s. RE71s are great, but they won't last as long. I have been tracking all year with Conti DW 285/35-19 tires and they've been nice for helping me develop the right skills (hopefully I have...) but they aren't a tire I'd want to ever buy again for a car that is tracked (they're better suited to an AMG MB or something that goes fast and needs grip but isn't going to rip through turns). Great rain tire - I blow by people in the rain when it happens with those tires. Anywho, I went and got me some Conti Extremecontact Sports to replace them (vs. the new Michelin tire, which was $400 more for a set). I expect them to be much better just on shear contact patch on the ground vs. the Conti DWs (which have huge wide grooves).

...

I'd like to throw in a vote for RE11Rs. I'm on 265/45R18 RE71Rs and I honestly feel like it's too much tire for a stock setup.

 

[TNcoupe]

I have RE11s and Ive done Road Atlanta, Little Talladega, Memphis Int Raceway, 2 days at VIR, an autocross and about 12k roads miles on em. Air temp at VIR was close to 90deg and they started getting greasy around 20min of a 30min session. Do they set the world on fire? No, but Im not trying to squeeze every tenth out of it every lap as I tend to drive to the track and drive home. No need to wad up a car over a couple tenths. Im definitely not just out there cruising around on a Sunday drive either.

 

[wildcatgoal]

RE11s are where it's at. Just mad expensive...

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