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HPDE and Track Events

TundraOnKings

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nice, what track is that? looks nice
Thanks! That was Portland International Raceway, it’s a decent track, can get up to 150MPH on one straight and 140mph on the other, but flat. 1:25 lap times in the 911.
I’m a club member at Oregon Raceway Park, and the fun factor is waaaay up there at that track. The elevation changes and blind corners can be tricky to learn, but once you learn, it’s a blast. They run it both clockwise and counterclockwise.
This was a few months ago (on crap stock tires, and first time in the 911).
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TundraOnKings

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The pp radiator (with procharger stage 2 kit) gave me 266F cylinder head temp warning on Sebring while outside was 93F.

So had to pull over and rest for 20 mins to cool down. then had to keep it on higher gear which made the car drive lame, slower.

I got a performance radiator from mishimoto.

they say this
  • 77-percent increase in coolant capacity over the stock performance package radiator
  • 26-percent increase in coolant surface area (tubes) over the stock performance package radiator
  • 55-percent increase in air surface area (fins) over the stock performance package radiator

So my steps

1- radiator upgrade
2- track and test
3- trackspec hood louvers install (engineers made sure the engine bay traps the heat lol)
4- track and test
5- oil cooler install
6- track and test

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I should’ve started my mods In this order. Like Flyhalf mentioned, boxing the radiator and hood vents are one of the big things that needs done.
I didn’t do this, and bet if I did the car would’ve ran much cooler than just adding an oil cooler.
I’d recommend this route you’re on.

One more thing to add, I’m glad I didn’t install a rear diff cooler. My diff temps were always perfectly fine after using the titanium exhaust wrap by the diff, and using the BG75-140 diff fluid.
 
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TundraOnKings

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He was a Mustang guy before. He was just sharing his experience in terms of cooling if you read further back.
I have no issues with looking at pictures of 911s anyway 😆
Lol, a few more - wheel swap. I had GT3 style wheels custom made (forged) for the 5 lug Carrera (normally they are center lock). They just delivered a few days ago and I slapped them on.

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gone_n_60

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Fyi there.is a legend around that thicker oil in the diff =less.heat.
Is actually the opposite.

thicker oil.in the diff = HIGHER TEMPS.
A thicker oil will "resist better in case u go for long time above 250f

Engine oil temps are the key. A bigger cooler should be in your plans really soon if you keep tracking it.
Racelouvers.com help to dissipate heat (and add front DF)

LAST. MOST IMPORTANT IS BOXING AND DUCTING THE FRONT RADIATOR. AT LEAST THE OUTSIDE to have all the air passing through the radiator!
Have fun.
Alessandro
Okay this boxing, I've searched here but I don't see the "how to" info. I understand you're changing airflow to the radiator but by what means? I'm trying to enjoy track days and still drive the GT for fun on the street or trips. I don't want to modify the hood unless it's not noticeable. Do people change hoods for track season?

fwiw on the 911 vs. Mustang, I probably could of bought a 911 if all I wanted to do is go to a track and speed around. I wanted a Mustang because of what it is, a Mustang. And why I stay here learning more about mine and how to enjoy it.
 

Flyhalf

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Okay this boxing, I've searched here but I don't see the "how to" info. I understand you're changing airflow to the radiator but by what means? I'm trying to enjoy track days and still drive the GT for fun on the street or trips. I don't want to modify the hood unless it's not noticeable. Do people change hoods for track season?

fwiw on the 911 vs. Mustang, I probably could of bought a 911 if all I wanted to do is go to a track and speed around. I wanted a Mustang because of what it is, a Mustang. And why I stay here learning more about mine and how to enjoy it.
Boxing is by far the most effective cooling mod you can do.
And unfortunately there is not a easy solution. It is complicated. It is time consuming. The most important thing is boxing the main radiator. You want all the air passing through it. Otherwise air will exit around the radiator passing throught the gaps. Then you can box every cooler too. But i would start with 4 big alluminium sheet around.
To template..i use plastic corrugate
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Coropla...ted-Twinwall-Plastic-Sheet-COR-3672/202771364

But also cardboard can be use.
To put them together.. just bend the edges. Make L shape and rivet or bolt and nut together. And at the side towards radiator you put some trim.edges to avoid scratching the fins and also to seal it.
Is time consuming but absolutely doable.
(I never done this before and look for the pic)
Venting will help also a lot cause you create a lower pressure bhind radiator ..helping the airflow.

you can reach me via IG if you need help
@italian_stang

🙂

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resto-sauce

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fwiw on the 911 vs. Mustang, I probably could of bought a 911 if all I wanted to do is go to a track and speed around. I wanted a Mustang because of what it is, a Mustang. And why I stay here learning more about mine and how to enjoy it.
911 is just a beetle. Clarkson convinced me.


on the other hand S550.1 and S550.2 are absolutely sexiest. mustang gets more panties down.
I love its cold starts, and revving as horn for years. I love when my HPDE instructor (who had a 911) shit his pants and look for places to hold on turn exists.
 
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resto-sauce

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just got the mishi radiator installed (while installing powerwashed the mildly clogged ac condenser)

after putting everything back on, CHT was 212F on idle (wtf) when the hood was open.
Intake temp was 110F (its inside the bumper).
I took it for a 3-4K rpm test drive and it reached to 224F. 😒

I came back home and spat on the car, and threw myself on the bed and cried and said
> I hate you mustang I hate you!!

30 mins later after eating enough ice cream, I did another test drive, BUUT this time CHT temp looked way better like 208-210F. Maybe because weather was cooled down to 90F.

FWIW, I noticed brand new coolant got dirty because of the coolant inside the engine. I am thinking to do couple flushes and will use 60% water 40% coolant after the flush.

after all that I will try keeping RPM around 4-5K, if it exceeds then I will try boxing the radiator. the air coming out of the radiator is super hot and its slamming the engine

If nothing else works I will use liquid nitrogen.
 

Flyhalf

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Good idea thanks.
Wouldn't the high heat warp the plastic over time?
Plastic corrugate to make the templates 😅
Alluminium for the boxing
 

resto-sauce

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Plastic corrugate to make the templates 😅
Alluminium for the boxing
good, now I now that you are sane person, and you know I am an idiota.

btw I am hoping you would come up with a thought of making that template into a product that you can trademark and market? so many people would buy that.
 

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TeeLew

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The pp radiator (with procharger stage 2 kit) gave me 266F cylinder head temp warning on Sebring while outside was 93F.
WTF, guy? You watched it go 220-230-240... Why stop at 266? I think you were at least good for 280 or so.
 

GTP

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btw I am hoping you would come up with a thought of making that template into a product that you can trademark and market? so many people would buy that.
I'm considering doing just this. As others have said, it's a lot of work sorting out all the details of the pieces that seal the gaps.
 

2BigPups

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What year Cayman S? Seems like quick and easy fix to just throw on an extra radiator and be done with cooling mods.

My ideal cooling list would include:
1. A10 trans cooler (mishi kit or setrab custom)
2. Trans thermostatic bypass and new external thermostat with custom lines
3. Bigger radiator than PP (fluidyne 3 pass)
4. OIl cooler (Harrop kit or setrab custom)
5. Custom ducting
6. Full Hood louvers from racelouvers
7. Track day temps under 90F ambient
8. heat wrap exhaust near diff, and maybe upgrade diff oil
Easy solutions for your ideal cooling list, upgrade to a Mach 1 :cwl::cwl::cwl::
1. A10 trans cooler (mishi kit or setrab custom) = Mach 1 A10 trans cooler
2. Not needed with Mach 1
3. Not needed with Mach 1
4. OIl cooler (Harrop kit or setrab custom) = Mach 1 oil cooler
5. Custom ducting = Mach 1 ducting
6. Not needed with Mach 1
7. Not needed with Mach 1
8. heat wrap exhaust near diff, and maybe upgrade diff oil = Mach 1 diff cooler
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