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How does this keep happening

bluebeastsrt

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My point was why was the knock not spotted on a datalog? He had sent logs to lund. Lund shouldve seen that kind of detonation.
A lot of issues couldve gone wrong, but 99% are easily seen on datalogs.

Weak fuel system? Car would require more fuel commanded than normal for his setup. His car isnt some exotic setup.

The logs I send my tuner are identical to how its driven to avoid any issues.

He pulled the okugs and replaced them, so two motors, two different sets of plugs.
And my point was. Maybe the knock wasn't there when the logs were taken! Logs are a snapshot of available information only on the day the log is taken. Lund cant guess if the owner is doing pulls to 180mph over and over in 90 degree heat for example. Or spinning tires and smacking the rev limiter over and over.
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Tommy V

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What does a wastegate have to do with iat?
Are u serious,when u are on a waste gate u build boost max boost until u hit whatever spring pressure is,the boost builds higher at lower rpms in which causes higher iats.
 

Dusten

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Are u serious,when u are on a waste gate u build boost max boost until u hit whatever spring pressure is,the boost builds higher at lower rpms in which causes higher iats.
The wastegate only controls when boost is vented. Not when the boost hits.

Higher boost at lower rpm(in a blower application) is a function of compressor and pulley. A large pulley will make boost sooner. But if the end result will be more boost than desired, the wastegate can vent it. In that case two different pulley combos can both make 12 psi with different power curves. This would create more heat in 1 combo than the other, but this isnt a function of the wastegate.
 

Dusten

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And my point was. Maybe the knock wasn't there when the logs were taken! Logs are a snapshot of available information only on the day the log is taken. Lund cant guess if the owner is doing pulls to 180mph over and over in 90 degree heat for example. Or spinning tires and smacking the rev limiter over and over.

Youre correct there. However considering this issue occured numerous times, I really doubt thats the issue.
 

Notagain

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Man this thread is going through alot of guessing.

Hmm aww screw it ill blame the nut behind the sterring wheel and not data logging enough!.

I mean were just throwing out guesses here right?
 

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gimmie11s

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The wastegate only controls when boost is vented. Not when the boost hits.

Higher boost at lower rpm(in a blower application) is a function of compressor and pulley. A large pulley will make boost sooner. But if the end result will be more boost than desired, the wastegate can vent it. In that case two different pulley combos can both make 12 psi with different power curves. This would create more heat in 1 combo than the other, but this isnt a function of the wastegate.
A larger pulley wont make boost sooner, itll make boost later.

The idea of the tq booster (wastegate) is to run the smallest pulley possible to bring on boost on a centri set up as fast as possible and as early as possible in the tq curve to try and mimic a PD blower power curve.

I had it on my 2014 Paxton car before I went TT and it sucked. Did not like the tq booster at all.

FAR more heat is generated on a wastegated 10psi set up vs. a 10psi pulley set up because the wastegated set up is actually pullied for 16 or 18 psi or whatever and is simply bleeding off the rest of the boost to hit the 10 psi target.
 
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robmustang201528

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I wasn't making 180mph pulls in 100 degree weather. Same problem happened twice. I did a 1500 mile break in period. After break in period, I did a couple of 2nd gear 40mph pulls to 120. The next day check engine light. Same problem as before. Got on the car a total of maybe 4 to 5 times. If it had something to do with the tq booster, I feel like everyone with a torque booster would have this problem. New spark plugs, injectors tested fine, even Lund said this shouldn't be happening. Car she be back together this week. Im going to have Lund give me a new tune. These guys are a reputable company, they do this all the time, they have to get it right. I'm tired of spending money on stuff I already bought. If I take it to another tunner thats another $800 to $900 bucks..... I've spent enough money on this car. Only thing we can point the finger at is Ford sent a me a new short block with a bad pistion. It's hard for me to belive that. Car never over boosted at all. The most was 10.5lbs. I wanted 12lbs but not I scared to do that lol smh. We checked everything. I just want a re tune. I'm praying that will fix the hell I've been for the past 6 months.
 

Chainsaw

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Your scenario sounds nearly exact to what happened to me.

When you install the spark plugs don't drop them in. When they hit bottom the gap may close up. A smaller gap has a smaller spark kernel and may not be enough for complete combustion under boost. I put the spark plug in a piece of 3/8" gas hose 8" long. I lower them into the hole and spin them till they stop turning then pull the hose off, then torque them. There are some videos on YouTube on how to check coil on plug coils. If you are unsure, I would replace them all, they aren't that expensive.

Discuss my scenario with your engine builder and Lund. Ask them if the same issue could have broken your piston.
Good luck.
 
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Dusten

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Gimme, correct in my head I was thinking lightnings and a larger lower.
 

Bluelightning

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So should I get a new tune through another company? Take off the tq booster? It felt like the tune was on point. I had zero drivability issues. Car pulled pretty good. Check engine kept coming on. What should I do? Machanic said it was a Ford defect. Do I need to have a longer break in period? I did about 1000 to 1200 miles break in period
I would probably rule out the defect part as it is a replacement short block, and this has now happened twice so you. That would indicate another issue like your tune being off.
 

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robmustang201528

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Off topic needs some help guys. Motor is apart. I got a new short block. Machanic ask me if I should get a different set of head studs. What do u guys think. Should I just keep the stock ones that I just bought brand new or return them and up grade? Do people have any issues with the stock head studs?
 

Bluelightning

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Off topic needs some help guys. Motor is apart. I got a new short block. Machanic ask me if I should get a different set of head studs. What do u guys think. Should I just keep the stock ones that I just bought brand new or return them and up grade? Do people have any issues with the stock head studs?
Never hurts to upgrade while you have it apart.
 

Chainsaw

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Off topic needs some help guys. Motor is apart. I got a new short block. Machanic ask me if I should get a different set of head studs. What do u guys think. Should I just keep the stock ones that I just bought brand new or return them and up grade? Do people have any issues with the stock head studs?
The stock head bolts are torque to yield. They get used once and thrown away. Even though they were only used for a short time I would replace them.
 

F1scamp

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Do yourself a favor, take the new shortblock apart, open the ring gaps up and check bearing clearances. My shortblock was on the tight end of all specs.
 

gimmie11s

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x100!

busted ring lands are usually from ring gaps set too tight. Loosen them up while the motor is apart.

Also buy some ARP head studs.

Truthfully, I'd also slam a set of forged pistons on the stock rods and go after it.
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