How does cold air get into the cold air intake?

[sms2022]

So if you look closely at the pic I posted, you’ll notice the left side (facing the car) of the intake is pretty open. I assume that is by design, to allow air to come in via other openings in the grille as well?

The Ford intake is actually quite good, they obviously have a lot of R&D in it. I guess I’d just be hesitant to add a piece that alters that design. Ford has way more research into it than Velossa does. Opening up the holes on the intake portion of the grille may compensate for that but I’m usually skeptical of stuff like that.

Completely agree. I will not be adding that proposed piece of rubber. My intake temps are only 4 degrees above ambient when moving even in 85+ degree heat. That tells me I don’t need to mess with it.

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[spankybranch]

I don’t know on the bumper conversions, but my 22-Mach1 doesn’t have the active-louvers/shutters, behind the upper grill is totally open to the radiators and I can see into the duct that feeds the stock (gt350) lower airbox the M1 uses. You could pop out the back of the fake fog-lights (4 clips) but it would not direct air anywhere…it’s all open behind the whole thing. As other stated : when driving IAT are only a few degrees over ambient.

These images are the bumper removed on a M1, you can see the clips on the back of the grill for the fog light covers, and you can see the air feeds into the airbox in the space between the radiator and headlight on the drivers side. The 2 ducts at the bottom that extend out from the bumper are the brake cooling ducts.

@WCRookie99

@Knockdown

 

[YULQQKN4]

I personally have the Cervinis Grill and Velossa intake going into my K&N Blackhawk intake and my intake temps are usually at or up to 2 degrees above ambient outside temps.

 

[sms2022]

I don’t know on the bumper conversions, but my 22-Mach1 doesn’t have the active-louvers/shutters, behind the upper grill is totally open to the radiators and I can see into the duct that feeds the stock (gt350) lower airbox the M1 uses. You could pop out the back of the fake fog-lights (4 clips) but it would not direct air anywhere…it’s all open behind the whole thing. As other stated : when driving IAT are only a few degrees over ambient.

These images are the bumper removed on a M1, you can see the clips on the back of the grill for the fog light covers, and you can see the air feeds into the airbox in the space between the radiator and headlight on the drivers side. The 2 ducts at the bottom that extend out from the bumper are the brake cooling ducts.

@WCRookie99

@Knockdown

Another great pic. This should help out some folks who want to run separate coolers but don’t know where to put them.

 

[Cheatham]

WATER, nobody has mentioned that maybe the restriction is more from keeping rain or or splashing water from entering, sure let’s have some sort of cool air but let’s not let much water or debris get into the intake, I have removed the restriction from my stock grill and haven’t had any driving issues, I don’t drive on rainy days and don’t spray water into the grill while washing, Dodge has a large dual hood scoop that sends outside air straight into the air box, maybe they have something figured out, plus the fog light hole that sends air into the air box, I’m speaking hellcat territory as I once had one.

 

[shogun32]

Dodge has a large dual hood scoop that sends outside air straight into the air box, maybe they have something figured out

isn't there a rather hard turn (or two, three) from hood inlet to chamber with filter? I think you'll also discover drain holes/reservoirs along the path. my GTI had a front-facing 'sliver' of an opening but the right angles and 'settling out' chambers took care of the liquids.

Intake air velocity is hardly that high that it would carry droplets very far.

 

[MAGS1]

I wouldn’t worry too much about water. Look at where the entry point for the air is vs where the airbox is. The water would have to be forced up at pretty high rate. If you hold a pressure washer close enough you can probably do it but rain probably not

 

[WildHorse]

I wouldn’t worry too much about water.

Me either. FORD did a very good job of keeping water out. I go through touchless car wash where the pressure is just blasting. Filter never gets wet.

 

[TRDFurgesson]

Skip the cold air intake and upgrade to the cone funnel.

The last right hander and the end of that fast slalom gets me almost every time also…. a bit more to the right and this installation would be instantaneous. If you’re gonna knock it down might as well get something out of it.

 

[TRDFurgesson]

You have a hot air intake, not a cold one
Most of those aftermarket “improvements “ are in fact a downgrade compared to the stock intake because they suck the hot engine compartment air instead of outside air

Absolutely CORRECT. If you want truly cold air you will need a sealed unit like what Steeda offers (this one is for a CJ or oval style TB). I‘m sure they make others for different TB’s. From what I understand you will need a stock lower box that is not supplied.

 

[WildHorse]

If you want truly cold air

False. They all get hot. even PMAS fender well. The all cool down once moving. Some quicker that others.

What you want is no long curves, because on the inside curve it'll create vortices, and the air will ride above it effectively reducing the overall inside diameter of useful airflow. The PMAS has a straight shot, to one 90 degree elbow, with barley any vortices at the inside corner, thus maintaining useful airflow throughout the whole inside diameter.

 

[TRDFurgesson]

False. They all get hot. even PMAS fender well. The all cool down once moving. Some quicker that others.

What you want is no long curves, because on the inside curve it'll create vortices, and the air will ride above it effectively reducing the overall inside diameter of useful airflow. The PMAS has a straight shot, to one 90 degree elbow, with barley any vortices at the inside corner, thus maintaining useful airflow throughout the whole inside diameter.

So yer tellin me there isn’t much difference between an intake allowing hot eng compartment air leaking past a barrier (path of least resistance) to the filter VS a sealed unit that only allows ambient air from inside the front grill ahead of the radiator to the filter? An open unit with a barrier will do better on a Dyno. A sealed unit will do better on track. When I say track I mean squiggly line type…. I looked at the PMAS…

 

[WildHorse]

So yer tellin me there isn’t much difference between an intake allowing hot eng compartment air leaking past a barrier

once rolling temp wise, no difference.

I know, been there, done that.

 

[jonny10buds]

I’m in the UK, in around 2001 my friend who ran a speed measuring company had the then latest shape Golf, the K&N factory is close to me so I picked him up from there when he left his car with them for the day as a template for their aftermarket filter, when we picked the car up they’d left the K&N system in place and his stock air box in the trunk, a few days later when he had a free afternoon at MIRA he measured acceleration with both set-ups in place, the car was faster with the stock air box, controversial I know but any modification on any car will introduce a compromise.

 

[Dapepper9]

So yer tellin me there isn’t much difference between an intake allowing hot eng compartment air leaking past a barrier (path of least resistance) to the filter VS a sealed unit that only allows ambient air from inside the front grill ahead of the radiator to the filter? An open unit with a barrier will do better on a Dyno. A sealed unit will do better on track. When I say track I mean squiggly line type…. I looked at the PMAS…

Regarding the absolutes you've mentioned, you might find this test interesting

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