Honey Badger's Completely Off-the-Rails Race Car Build and Track Adventure Thread

HoosierDaddy

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The way they learn to imitate sounds is fascinating. It was pretty obvious he wanted to imitate certain sounds and knew in his mind exactly how they sounded. Problem was he didn't know exactly how to make a particular sound or series of sounds. So, he would try to imitate what he remembered and could tell it didn't sound the same. So, he would alter it a bit over and over until the sound he made matched his recollection. I'm guessing that's how they all do it.
 

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It has been said that there are greys in the wild that have passed on the mimicing(?) Generation to generation. Some pretty spicy language that would make a sailor blush. 😄
 
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honeybadger

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'Twas a very busy holiday break as I was finally able to dive back into the car building. First, I finally got around to addressing the doors. I had a couple goals - maximize weight reduction, make it so I can add an interior AL or CF panel to help fill in the hole, and re-paint the doors.

I was able to remove quite bit a material - weight out of the door came in around 17lbs per door, so they weight about 33 lbs now. Still heavier than I want - but pretty good for stilling using the metal shell. Plus, they're good to make molds for CF doors in the future.

1704826263111.png


During the door project, I made the decision to change the chassis paint color. Originally I went with white exterior because I want something easy to repair when it gets damaged or I need to put on new parts (will be wrapped over, too). But I've really started to love the Steel-It finish for the base. So I sanded down and repainted.

Hard to believe this comes out of a rattle can

1704826277033.png


I also added a rain light to the rear bumper and flipped the tow hook upside down. This is going to look sickkkk

1704826287456.png


Next, I started working on the center console controls. This is where I ended up. The blink keypad will control everything with the ecu/PDM - ign, start/stop, tc mode, headlight, hazards, steering mode, etc. The red square next to it is the water pump controller, and the row of knobs/breakers are for the ABS - adjust ABS intervention, turn it on/off, and three resettable breakers for the power in case it trips.

Finally, bottom has master power and fire. Wanted fire within reach of a passenger, but not in a place likely to be pushed. This panel will be made of CF during final install

1704826300038.png


For corner worker access - I've used the cowl since that's the common area for them to look right now. I am thinking about adding another set by the headrest area on the driver side in case the car is upside down

1704826313015.png


Finally, I started on the wiring. This is something I've been putting off/procrastinating on for about a year. For the last 6 months, I've been educating myself on designing, implementation, and problem solving all the various aspects - integration of CANs between modules (ABS, ECU, PDM, EPAS, etc.), wiring, engine harnesses (from spark to injection to sensors), chassis harnesses, etc. HP Academy has some really great courses and a ton you can learn from. I've learned the majority from that with some ancillary learning on YouTube and Facebook groups.

I'm a visual project starter, so once I had designed my harnesses/assigned inputs, etc., I begun by running the various wires to their locations. This helped me identify if there would be any issues - nothing major came up, but it did give me an idea of how to tackle and encourage me to move some stuff around. I did find that I re-used a couple of inputs on the ECU, so I had to make some changes there.

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Once I labeled everything, it was time to start mocking up the actual harness routing and distances. I used rope for this. Here's what the engine harness looked like. But I did the same for the rear chassis harness, rear cabin/trunk harness, and front chassis harness as well.

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Once those were done - I would draw it on paper with precise measurements. This is what I used during the actual harness building to ensure consistency of wire lengths, measure the proper lengths for heat shrinking, etc. I plan to go into this in more detail in a future post.

1704826391622.png


Right now I have two harnesses done outside a few boots/connectors.

Rear cabin/trunk harness

1704826400558.png


Front chassis harness
1704826415528.png


Frank has been hanging out in the garage with me and Major. He's a pretty terrible shop supervisor - but he's learning. He hasn't crapped on the car yet, so that's a bonus

1704826429946.png
 
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honeybadger

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honeybadger

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Also - here's a quick overview of the wiring for the brake lights and head lights



 

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He's a pretty terrible shop supervisor - but he's learning.
hopefully he doesn't resort to "Spank me", "I'm a bad girl, spank me", and "That's it baby, oh yeah" as phrases of encouragement.

Ref: http://tinyurl.com/4npeh6yx if you're wondering what in G***DS name is Matt going on about.
 

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Solid core wire works well for temping wiring also, since it will hold contours and such. End result is very precise, but costs a little versus rope.

I need to get my hands on some of that Steel-It...
 

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I now understand you completely. You love torture and challenge. A bird that outlives you, a dog that can outsmart you and a GT350 race car with no GT350 parts left ;)
 
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honeybadger

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hopefully he doesn't resort to "Spank me", "I'm a bad girl, spank me", and "That's it baby, oh yeah" as phrases of encouragement.

Ref: http://tinyurl.com/4npeh6yx if you're wondering what in G***DS name is Matt going on about.
that would be so wildly inappropriate it would be hard not to have fun with it. I am worried he'll pickup my non-work friendly vocab and start repeating it during meetings ha

I now understand you completely. You love torture and challenge. A bird that outlives you, a dog that can outsmart you and a GT350 race car with no GT350 parts left ;)
When you remember that I'm at least slightly crazy on the best of days, all my decisions make a lot more sense :D
 

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that would be so wildly inappropriate it would be hard not to have fun with it. I am worried he'll pickup my non-work friendly vocab and start repeating it during meetings ha



When you remember that I'm at least slightly crazy on the best of days, all my decisions make a lot more sense :D
It doesn't show in your video updates, but if I let a talking bird who mimics human speech hang out with me while I'm working on my car he'd end up squawking "if we ever find the dumbass that designed this" and heavy use of the word c*cks*cker and motherf**ker.
 

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It doesn't show in your video updates, but if I let a talking bird who mimics human speech hang out with me while I'm working on my car he'd end up squawking "if we ever find the dumbass that designed this" and heavy use of the word c*cks*cker and motherf**ker.
I think those phrases are getting a recent workout at a couple places where they fly cans of people around the countryside.
 

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It doesn't show in your video updates, but if I let a talking bird who mimics human speech hang out with me while I'm working on my car he'd end up squawking "if we ever find the dumbass that designed this" and heavy use of the word c*cks*cker and motherf**ker.
I have a 4 yo who hangs out with me while wrenching. There has been more than a few "I will take your Mustang away if you ever repeat that" (Son has a diecast GT500 HE that he cherishes). :cwl: :cwl: :cwl:

I don't suppose a bird would listen!
 
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honeybadger

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It doesn't show in your video updates, but if I let a talking bird who mimics human speech hang out with me while I'm working on my car he'd end up squawking "if we ever find the dumbass that designed this" and heavy use of the word c*cks*cker and motherf**ker.
Mine would be routine selection of "dammit,' "get f*cked," and long, deeply disappointed, world-weary sighs.

I don't suppose a bird would listen!
Definitely not. So far, he's proven to be entirely unreasonable. I'm hoping we can get to bribes in the future
 
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Made moar progress over the weekend. I continue to need to order parts (boots, connectors, terminals, pins, sockets, etc. IT NEVER ENDS), so I haven't been able to finish any single individual harness. But making huge progress.

Here's where I currently stand:

Rear cabin/trunk harness that powers tail lights and fuel pumps is 99% done. Just waiting on two boots and the resin I need to recover the main boon.
IMG_2356.JPG


The rear end/sub frame harness is very close. Waiting on a wye boot, some 1/8 raychem for the smaller wires, and some DT connectors for the pumps and fans. Oh - and a bulkhead that will go through the trunk floor.
IMG_2355.JPG


Front chassis harness just needs a boot for the bulkhead and a couple boots for the headlight connectors
IMG_2354.JPG


Intake sub harness is done outside of the bulkhead boot and connector terminals. Fitment came out perfect. Can't wait to show you the full thing
IMG_2352.JPG


The monster engine harness has all the hard work done - just waiting on yet moar boots and a couple transitions. Then I can pin the bulkhead and terminal each of the OEM plugs. I think I found a solution for the OEM solenoids that we all trouble with. Will share my solution once the parts come in.
IMG_2353.JPG


Next up is to tackle the integration mess inside the cabin - PDM and ECU connectors. These all have to intertwine. PDM powers the ignition coils, injectors, VVT/EPAS, and starter solenoid - all of which go through the ECU engine harness bulkheads. And course they all come from different plugs - so literally all 4 plugs go to basically all bulkheads - plus 5 main cabin plugs. It's not going to be super clean given my ECU/PDM mounting locations, but it'll be good enough and serviceable.

IMG_2357.JPG


I ended up modifying both flying leads pretty extensively to remove some unused pins and to clean up the branching. I'll post those by Friday (waiting on more boots, shocker I know).
 

US HWY 666

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Made moar progress over the weekend. I continue to need to order parts (boots, connectors, terminals, pins, sockets, etc. IT NEVER ENDS), so I haven't been able to finish any single individual harness. But making huge progress.

Here's where I currently stand:

Rear cabin/trunk harness that powers tail lights and fuel pumps is 99% done. Just waiting on two boots and the resin I need to recover the main boon.
IMG_2356.JPG


The rear end/sub frame harness is very close. Waiting on a wye boot, some 1/8 raychem for the smaller wires, and some DT connectors for the pumps and fans. Oh - and a bulkhead that will go through the trunk floor.
IMG_2355.JPG


Front chassis harness just needs a boot for the bulkhead and a couple boots for the headlight connectors
IMG_2354.JPG


Intake sub harness is done outside of the bulkhead boot and connector terminals. Fitment came out perfect. Can't wait to show you the full thing
IMG_2352.JPG


The monster engine harness has all the hard work done - just waiting on yet moar boots and a couple transitions. Then I can pin the bulkhead and terminal each of the OEM plugs. I think I found a solution for the OEM solenoids that we all trouble with. Will share my solution once the parts come in.
IMG_2353.JPG


Next up is to tackle the integration mess inside the cabin - PDM and ECU connectors. These all have to intertwine. PDM powers the ignition coils, injectors, VVT/EPAS, and starter solenoid - all of which go through the ECU engine harness bulkheads. And course they all come from different plugs - so literally all 4 plugs go to basically all bulkheads - plus 5 main cabin plugs. It's not going to be super clean given my ECU/PDM mounting locations, but it'll be good enough and serviceable.

IMG_2357.JPG


I ended up modifying both flying leads pretty extensively to remove some unused pins and to clean up the branching. I'll post those by Friday (waiting on more boots, shocker I know).
moar??
 
 
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