Honey Badger's Completely Off-the-Rails Race Car Build and Track Adventure Thread

[honeybadger]

moar??

internet degenerate spelling of more

 

[US HWY 666]

internet degenerate spelling of more

Just aggravating you. Carry on with your spectacular work.

 

[mikedahammer]

I wish I had 10% of the skill to do this and 100% of the time. I have been following along but I had to comment because I think you need to switch careers. Can't wait to see it done.

 

[WItoTX]

Serviceable > Looks every time!

 

[galaxy]

Serviceable > Looks every time!

hahahahhah ;)

 

[honeybadger]

I wish I had 10% of the skill to do this and 100% of the time. I have been following along but I had to comment because I think you need to switch careers. Can't wait to see it done.

It's mostly obsession, the inability to prioritize what I should (i.e. work or the completely torn apart guest bathroom), and a little bit of skill. Not as hard as you think if you break it down into steps and work through. Very intimidating, though. I procrastinated on wiring for over a year.

 

[honeybadger]

Made more progress - but as has been the process so far, waiting on more parts

Once everything is final, I'll post details how things are actually done. But for now, more fragmented shots of partial harnesses!

I finally got my bulkheads in for the rear harness. Downside is I forgot or already used the boots - so they're full ready to go - just need boots. I've tested and made sure the contacts are in the right spots. The top photo is the section that runs from the PDM to the trunk area. It terminates in a bulkhead.

This section goes under the car - powering the diff fan/pump, trans fan/pump, rain light and diff temp sensor.

I used my first raychem tri transition boot (about 8in below the bulkhead). These things are awesome and provide a really clean look with a great water tight seal (which is critical since its under the car).

I used another Raychem transition boot on the main engine harness. Due to where my bulkheads are mounted on the firewall, I am working in some pretty awkward spaces behind the Bank 1 cylinder head. So I need to take a hard right out of the bulkhead and then split to run down Bank 1 and 2. This requires the Bank 1 trunk to double back. Obviously this is a huge opportunity for failure due to fatigue. So a Raychem boot will provide a rigid transition with excellent strain relief.

Here's how its routed under the boot

And with the boot recovered

Full harness is looking good - just needs terminations now - waiting on bulkhead before I terminate to fine tune sensor lengths

Labels on everything

My intake sub harness is also done. Just waiting to recover the boot until I can get the ECU powered and everything tested. Similarly to the main engine harness, I had another tight split, so another Raychem boot was used. Super sleek and tightly tucked away.

I've also made progress on the ECU and PDM harnesses. Just waiting on two large boots to cover the intersections. Then I can terminate everything and pin the bulkheads. These two photos might look fairly inconspicuous, but there's probably 8 hours work just in these two sets of connectors. Super tedious work and a ton of integration between the two.

Hopefully finished harnesses to come in a couple days

 

[Mach VII]

Made more progress - but as has been the process so far, waiting on more parts

Once everything is final, I'll post details how things are actually done. But for now, more fragmented shots of partial harnesses!

I finally got my bulkheads in for the rear harness. Downside is I forgot or already used the boots - so they're full ready to go - just need boots. I've tested and made sure the contacts are in the right spots. The top photo is the section that runs from the PDM to the trunk area. It terminates in a bulkhead.

This section goes under the car - powering the diff fan/pump, trans fan/pump, rain light and diff temp sensor.

I used my first raychem tri transition boot (about 8in below the bulkhead). These things are awesome and provide a really clean look with a great water tight seal (which is critical since its under the car).

I used another Raychem transition boot on the main engine harness. Due to where my bulkheads are mounted on the firewall, I am working in some pretty awkward spaces behind the Bank 1 cylinder head. So I need to take a hard right out of the bulkhead and then split to run down Bank 1 and 2. This requires the Bank 1 trunk to double back. Obviously this is a huge opportunity for failure due to fatigue. So a Raychem boot will provide a rigid transition with excellent strain relief.

Here's how its routed under the boot

And with the boot recovered

Full harness is looking good - just needs terminations now - waiting on bulkhead before I terminate to fine tune sensor lengths

Labels on everything

My intake sub harness is also done. Just waiting to recover the boot until I can get the ECU powered and everything tested. Similarly to the main engine harness, I had another tight split, so another Raychem boot was used. Super sleek and tightly tucked away.

I've also made progress on the ECU and PDM harnesses. Just waiting on two large boots to cover the intersections. Then I can terminate everything and pin the bulkheads. These two photos might look fairly inconspicuous, but there's probably 8 hours work just in these two sets of connectors. Super tedious work and a ton of integration between the two.

Hopefully finished harnesses to come in a couple days

Impressive work, my dude. Top notch for sure!

 

[honeybadger]

Successful weekend making some work in-between watching the Rolex. On Friday, I got a chance to setup a new toy *cough cough* I mean tool. I'm late to the 3D printing party, but diving in head first now.

A couple months back, I reached out to @5.2 liters of democracy for some help re-creating some GT4 secret sauce. With the sequential setup, I was worried about cracking the block since Ford had some issues with that and I've already had my block repaired for a crack. These reinforce the ears on the block by tying into the bottom of the bellhousing and the oil pan. MMR makes their own version, but it doesn't fit the Dailey Drysump pan I have

Here's a pic of the GT4 braces for reference

Test fit the 3d printed ones - took us a few tries. But they fit now. Now I just need to clean up the design a bit and then will send off for CNCing.

Also - I finally got my first harness completely finished. This one goes from the PDM to control the diff cooler pump/fan, trans cooler pump/fan, rain light, and diff temp sensor. Split into two parts - one going through the cabin and terminating in a bulkhead - and the other under the car.

 

[MAGS1]

Successful weekend making some work in-between watching the Rolex. On Friday, I got a chance to setup a new toy *cough cough* I mean tool. I'm late to the 3D printing party, but diving in head first now.

A couple months back, I reached out to @5.2 liters of democracy for some help re-creating some GT4 secret sauce. With the sequential setup, I was worried about cracking the block since Ford had some issues with that and I've already had my block repaired for a crack. These reinforce the ears on the block by tying into the bottom of the bellhousing and the oil pan. MMR makes their own version, but it doesn't fit the Dailey Drysump pan I have

Here's a pic of the GT4 braces for reference

Test fit the 3d printed ones - took us a few tries. But they fit now. Now I just need to clean up the design a bit and then will send off for CNCing.

Also - I finally got my first harness completely finished. This one goes from the PDM to control the diff cooler pump/fan, trans cooler pump/fan, rain light, and diff temp sensor. Split into two parts - one going through the cabin and terminating in a bulkhead - and the other under the car.

Everything is looking great! Loving the reels on Instagram too, Frank is hilarious

 

[honeybadger]

Everything is looking great! Loving the reels on Instagram too, Frank is hilarious

he's an uncontrollable anarchist that acts on every intrusive thought, but he's been a ton of fun. definitely makes us laugh a lot. He is the worst officemate I've ever had, though.

 

[honeybadger]

Did a test fit of the center console tonight. Looking good, I think.

Every day getting a bit closer to power up. I am 99% done with the battery disconnect and fire supression install, but waiting until I button it up before posting so I can show the full walkthrough. It's come out pretty good, imho.

Tomorrow I get the parts to finish the PDM/ECU integration and then Wednesday I get the tool I need to pin the remaining bulkheads. Getting closer!

 

[honeybadger]

Sneak peak at the progress I made this weekend. Still need to take more detailed pics and document everything, but all harnesses are done. Finished up the main engine and intake harnesses

Intake will still need to be tucked up on the manifold a bit. Working on some 3D printed brackets that get them up and out of the way.

Main engine harness is still a bit messy, but everything came out great. Waiting to recover the main bulkhead boots until I've tested it. Also note how the intake comes off with the harness still on it. Only need to remove a single bulkhead

This shows why I want to get the manifold harness up a bit more to clean it. Bit messy this way

Also finished up the center console and ordered the last icons for the key pad - steering mode, tc mode, left/right signals, interior light (dome light), start/stop, and PIT mode. Sat in the car and spent about 5 mins just day dream. That shifter and Bosch ABS adjustment knob are just so race car. So pumped

Also got some 3d printed mounts worked out for the Penske reservoirs. This 3d printer has been a game changer. Working on some fire suppression nozzles now

Not shown was all the install of the fire suppression system which is 95% there - just waiting on some parts. Will then document and share that install.

I've also finished up all the wiring except for one connector for the keypad and the power cable to the PDM - somehow I forgot to order 4awg supply power to the PDM. Once I get that later this week - we'll be go for a power up

 

[honeybadger]

This printer is cheating. Needed a way to aim my fire suppression nozzles at the headers. Whipped up a quick model in Fusion 360 and went out in the garage for a bit while the printer produced a model. Model took about 10 mins to make in CAD and printer kicks it out in about 25 mins.

Next up is some bracing to support my carbon footwell / pedal box cover

 

[JAJ]

This printer is cheating. Needed a way to aim my fire suppression nozzles at the headers. Whipped up a quick model in Fusion 360 and went out in the garage for a bit while the printer produced a model. Model took about 10 mins to make in CAD and printer kicks it out in about 25 mins.

Next up is some bracing to support my carbon footwell / pedal box cover

Luckily the printed material is fireproof. No worries about the nozzle aiming off into space if a real fire happens...