Highest mileage ecoboost and long term durability

[Nickp]

Hey friends!

I’m joining y’all today from the Bronco6G forums. I’m actually a mod over there, and there are some pretty common questions/ concerns people have over the 2.3. I figured since y’all have experience with these engines for a few years now, we might be able to glean some info and help assuage some fears! The biggest questions we get relate more to high-mileage ecoboost owners. People are planning on keeping their Broncos for 200k+ and are concerned about long term reliability when getting to that high of mileage. Concerns just with a turbo 4 cylinder and the complexity that comes with it, and carbon buildup are the two biggest ones I see. Any comment on reliability with tunes is appreciated as well, since the stick shift is only available with the 2.3 a significant portion of members are planning on tuning. And lastly, is there any specific maintenance or servicing that these engines need at higher mileage?

Thanks for the help. I know a lot of these questions have been sort of answered before but I haven’t seen a whole lot of talk about high mileage ecoboosts yet, a lot of talk about 40k-80k mileage and I was hoping to see some larger numbers! Thanks for your time guys.

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[Blue Moon]

I'm only at 45k miles, most of them on Cobb OTS tune Stage 1 & 2. Any issues I've had so far were purely self-inflicted.

 

[3oostdmstng]

Hello!

Let me copy and paste from a post I made a few months ago with the issues I had with my car.

I own a 2016 EB, bought with 10k miles and now I am at 88k mi. STOCK ECU. Only MBRP catback.

Along with buying the car, I bought the 100k extended warranty. So far 3.5 years of ownership.

Ive made sure to always get my oil changes within 5 miles intervals, they recommended brake oil change and coolant change, along with alignment.

The extended warranty helped in the following:
- purge valve replacement 42k mi
- @ 54k miles, my CEL light came on - first and only time that happened. According to notes, O2 sensor indicating TOO lean, tech performed eec test and found p0171 -- tech advised to change INJECTORS. They were replaced.
- The air conditioning system stopped working/evaporator related @ 66K miles.

The above have been the only issues with the car.

Ive always made sure to pump 93 octane in the tank.
So far, with the amount of miles I have, the car still pulls and no issues no rough idling.

I NEVER put a catch can, still dont have one. Some ppl will say it is MUST even with stock ECU.

Hope that helps.

 

[Deleted member]

109k on mine, tuned and modded since 23k

 

[Nickp]

I'm only at 45k miles, most of them on Cobb OTS tune Stage 1 & 2. Any issues I've had so far were purely self-inflicted.

Good to hear.

Hello!

Let me copy and paste from a post I made a few months ago with the issues I had with my car.

I own a 2016 EB, bought with 10k miles and now I am at 88k mi. STOCK ECU. Only MBRP catback.

Along with buying the car, I bought the 100k extended warranty. So far 3.5 years of ownership.

Ive made sure to always get my oil changes within 5 miles intervals, they recommended brake oil change and coolant change, along with alignment.

The extended warranty helped in the following:
- purge valve replacement 42k mi
- @ 54k miles, my CEL light came on - first and only time that happened. According to notes, O2 sensor indicating TOO lean, tech performed eec test and found p0171 -- tech advised to change INJECTORS. They were replaced.
- The air conditioning system stopped working/evaporator related @ 66K miles.

The above have been the only issues with the car.

Ive always made sure to pump 93 octane in the tank.
So far, with the amount of miles I have, the car still pulls and no issues no rough idling.

I NEVER put a catch can, still dont have one. Some ppl will say it is MUST even with stock ECU.

Hope that helps.

Interesting. Honestly that sounds like a lot of stuff to have to repair for under 100k. Most people in the bronco forums want at least 100k with just oil changes. Honestly I want 150k, that’s what I was at when i sold my explorer and I did absolutely nothing to that vehicle except routine maintenance and an axle shaft.

109k on mine, tuned and modded since 23k

And no issues?

 

[Deleted member]

Good to hear.


Interesting. Honestly that sounds like a lot of stuff to have to repair for under 100k. Most people in the bronco forums want at least 100k with just oil changes. Honestly I want 150k, that’s what I was at when i sold my explorer and I did absolutely nothing to that vehicle except routine maintenance and an axle shaft.


And no issues?

Short block was replaced at 19k cracked the block, but i was bone stock at the time. Just had a muffler delete. Since the replacement i went full bolt on and pro tuned after that and have had no issues motor or tranny wise. Ive replaced 1 cv axle and both rear wheel bearings, but other than that its all just been basic maintenance. Runs great and still pushes 24-25psi weather permitting.

 

[OVRKILL]

I'm up to 110k on an early Spanish motor from 2014. Tuned at 1k, turbo swap at 60k. Still golden.

 

[Black9]

Proven or not, a couple theories about longevity for me...catch can...I know it’s controversial but I put a JLT on my used Eco at 43,000 miles, all good except a little soot on the tail pipes when I went to wash .After some research I went with a UPR dual valve catch can with a gutted PCV, now the tailpipes are clean.The only conclusion I can come to is the UPR is removing as much oil mist and not burning it as possible, also with an important side benefit of not deluting in octane. The other thing I’ve noticed is many failures with rods through the block happen around cylinder 3 , right around the balance shaft ( which by the way weighs18 lbs.) due to spinning this counterweight at twice the speed of the crank I believe puts a lot of stress in that area with very little gain in engine vibe reduction.Any aftermarket built block deletes this, coincidence? don’t think so. I’m going to take mine out when I get a long weekend ( I like to tinker) because the part is only about 25.00 but the cost is in labor if a shop does it.

 

[Black9]

Just to clarify, the BSD isn’t necessary , but for me being tuned I think that would help eliminate or reduce the risk of ventilating the block.The head gasket, well that is another issue altogether, though if you are basically stock I think a catch can , good gas and regular oil changes is a good recipe for a long lasting car.

 

[DavidEcobeast]

28k miles over here. FBO utilizing methonal injection pushing 28psi and 14* timing. The car absolutely screams for being a 4cyl. Currently I am off methonal and using the 92 octane MAP created by Ryan Martian @ PD Tuning . I would say this engine is very reliable. LSPI (low speed pre ignition) in the early years caused a lot of catastrophic engine failures for SN oils enriched with calcium. Current formulas are SN+ with little calcium from my understanding. So use the best synthetic oil money can afford. I personally use Amsoil signature series 5/30w and their EA filters. I change it every 5000-6000 miles and typically go thru a qt in between oil changes. My catch can is emptied about twice between oil changes. Stay ontop of oil changes, topping off oil, and doing everything possible to avoid lugging the engine and building boost.

*I have had my aftermarket charge pipe blow off
*Random cold start missfires from a bad Evap solenoid
*discovered I was a qt low when basically new around 3k miles
*hit max boost with max timing running out of Methonal. Engine bucked and popped hard threw 4 codes.
*bounced off the rev limiter and had a weird tuning issue that would cause high rom knock or fuel cutoff when the car had about 400 miles on it.


She is still alive thanks to Ryan, and me getting off of the throttle when something is not right!
Again stay ontop of maintenance. Plugs, oil, filter, fuel and just know that this is a little engine making big power for what it is. As far as I know. The Rangers with the 2.3 has not had any problems and engine failures after SN+ oils is rare in Mustangs.

Just changed my oil today and it was black at 5500 miles. Do not buy into extended oil drain intervals. Oil is cheap compared to engines. If you really want to get serious about oils, look into oils developed by Joe Gibbs racing and Lake Speed Jr called Driven. They are specifically engineered for the Ecoboost and other engines. Lake Speed Jr. really exposed LSPI and he has a lot of information about the subject on YouTube and in the racing scene of things.

Good luck and the Bronco looks RAD!!!

I would say if the engine is stock, it will live a long happy life if maintained. Follow the extreme/severe maintenance schedule from Ford. Screw the regular maintenance schedule. Maintenance is cheap and FUN. The Mustang is fun and had plenty of power stock. Tuned and modded is even more fun!

 

[Rogues Gambit]

 

[Coyote Chase]

75K on my 2.0 Fusion with zero problems! 5K and 5 national 1/4 mile events with zero problems!!

 

[Coyote Chase]

Sorry, 2nd car is my 2018 Mustang (factory stock/factory tune)...

 

[Turbong]

53k FP tune, 5 years of occasional spirited driving no issues yet already on the extended warranty and amazingly A/C still works.

I would also like to add I'm on the factory battery haha

 

[Cobra Jet]

There was this one - 150k:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...any-advice-on-preventive-maintainence.129470/

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