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The guys who I personally know, that have top mounts here in AZ, where I live at are majority track dedicated cars. Impossible to run a top mount, with out creating temperatures those resembling hell, in the summer time here. In hot states like mine and other like Texas Florida and so on I would opt for a mid mount to help with under the hood temps.
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The guys who I personally know, that have top mounts here in AZ, where I live at are majority track dedicated cars. Impossible to run a top mount, with out creating temperatures those resembling hell, in the summer time here. In hot states like mine and other like Texas Florida and so on I would opt for a mid mount to help with under the hood temps.
My sleeper has handled two AZ summers like a champ already. Couldn't imaging what it would be like daily driving a top mount out here...
 

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Local guy here had it and swapped it out for a custom mid mount setup. They had so many issues with heat it wasn't worth the hassle.

I assume you have a built motor since you are looking for 4 digit power?
Do you know what kind of issue that I could run into ? and can I do to prevent those heat problems? I know I can use some heat wrap on all piping and wires.

I'm staying on stock trans and engine for now (will stay around 650-800whp). Then once I'm ready to build the engine, I will go to 1100-1200.
 

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Do you know what kind of issue that I could run into ? and can I do to prevent those heat problems? I know I can use some heat wrap on all piping and wires.

I'm staying on stock trans and engine for now (will stay around 650-800whp). Then once I'm ready to build the engine, I will go to 1100-1200.
Extreme heat/melting components. They also tend to have higher back pressure which can cause valve float. At low boost you should be OK.
 

WIST2019GT

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Extreme heat/melting components. They also tend to have higher back pressure which can cause valve float. At low boost you should be OK.
Yep both of these things. They coated the setup and wrapped it and still couldn't get the heat under control. The ran the exhaust out the bumper on both sides to help with backpressure and even added valve springs to bandaid it further.

You're probably going to need to build a trans before a motor since the 10R80 is kinda weak and wont last long even at 800.
 

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With heat wrap in 1 area and turbo blankets together i've never had an heat issue. No melted parts and even the CHTs + IATs etc have all have been the same as when the car was N/A. Nothings changed. More backpressure and the placement of weight are the only cons I see to a top mount, which is why I suggested the 4-1 headers..but then at the same time, to hit the levels required to touch valve float and any lifting of anything, you'll be pretty much pushing blown motor/needing headstuds and valve springs anyway. You're gambling on any setup at that point. I dont think any choice is the wrong choice though. You'll achieve your goals with either kit.
 

Hitani

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With heat wrap in 1 area and turbo blankets together i've never had an heat issue. No melted parts and even the CHTs + IATs etc have all have been the same as when the car was N/A. Nothings changed. More backpressure and the placement of weight are the only cons I see to a top mount, which is why I suggested the 4-1 headers..but then at the same time, to hit the levels required to touch valve float and any lifting of anything, you'll be pretty much pushing blown motor/needing headstuds and valve springs anyway. You're gambling on any setup at that point. I dont think any choice is the wrong choice though. You'll achieve your goals with either kit.
I have heard a lot saying "more backpressure" or "backpressure issue". Can you explain what does that means ? (newbie here lol)

my plan now is only to run on lower boost levels (e85) and maybe stay in the 600-800 whp range without any engine work. Hopefully that lasts me a bit.

I'm glad that I ordered the 4-1 Hellion headers with my kit then.
 

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I have heard a lot saying "more backpressure" or "backpressure issue". Can you explain what does that means ? (newbie here lol)

my plan now is only to run on lower boost levels (e85) and maybe stay in the 600-800 whp range without any engine work. Hopefully that lasts me a bit.

I'm glad that I ordered the 4-1 Hellion headers with my kit then.
Always enjoy watching Jay break stuff down! Watch the video in the link below.

 

illtal

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I have heard a lot saying "more backpressure" or "backpressure issue". Can you explain what does that means ? (newbie here lol)

my plan now is only to run on lower boost levels (e85) and maybe stay in the 600-800 whp range without any engine work. Hopefully that lasts me a bit.

I'm glad that I ordered the 4-1 Hellion headers with my kit then.
Easy way to explain it is when the engine can't get rid of the exhaust it produces with causes a pressure buildup in the exhaust system. This pressure can cause a few problems

When it is high enough (back pressure). The engine will not make more power even with more boost or lower iats.

This can be caused by too small diameter of piping, too much piping, bends, etc. Typically in a boosted application we are making far more exhaust gases under boost. This is why people run cut outs or dumps to expel the exhaust gases from the system quickly and without restriction.

There are a lot of articles on back pressure and the amount that's bad for most engines, I've read anything below a 2:1 (boost to back pressure) will start to cause problems especially the bigger the engine. Once at 1:1 you need look at the system before going further. Dunno if it's 100% true.

A easy way to think of back pressure is to use a turbo with a small AR and an open exhaust system. At a certain amount of boost no more power can be made because the turbo turbine housing cannot flow anymore gas through it. This effectively chokes the engine exhaust gas flow. Same concept applies to piping. Garrett is the only company coincidentally that provides turbine flow maps for all AR housing they sell.

This is why the undermount systems are more effective and efficient. Pipe diameter stays big down there. The exhaust gas has a straight shot through the turbos and all.
There have been big power guys that needed to have non stock headers because the stock headers cannot flow any more exhaust gases. The first indicator is less HP per boost even if the iats are the same. Next indicator would be valve float which can be seen on the dyno graph. Band aid approach is valve springs. An easier approach would be to relieve back pressure with dumps .

 
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I'll be sure to update this thread post install AND post hurricane season lol.
If I don't hydrolock my car moving it from point A to point B throughout
(within reason not going to straight up drive into a flooded area now) then I hope this thread can be used as a reference to finally put to rest any newcomers having the same anxiety of water damage.
 
 








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