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HELLION TOP MOUNT KIT FOR 2018+ MUSTANG

wumbo5.0

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Hey everyone,


Going to be acquiring the Hellion top mount kit on my ’20 Mustang GT.

I’m getting this kit installed via Palm Beach Dyno / RareFab.



Pierre at Palm Beach was trying to sway me away from getting a top mount kit, and rather I get the street sleeper.

Due to it being a more efficient system, and he mentioned the top mount kit might have oil pressure issues at the power level I’m aiming for.

and that the kit is mostly intended for looks and not really big power.



My power goal is 1000-1150whp.



Before getting the engine built the car will be set at 900-950.



So I say all of this to ask. Has anyone with the kit experienced any issues? .

He mentioned not a lot of their customers who do that kit push it that far.



Thanks in advance for the input.
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KingKona

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Before getting the engine built the car will be set at 900-950.
I would think that would lead to a catastrophic engine malfunction.

Malice in the combustion palace.
You'd have new inspection ports on the side of your block.
There'd be Piston McNuggets in your oil pan.
You'd have self-deleting pistons.

I would suggest getting the engine built first. Or risk spending a lot of additional money.
 

Proshop

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What is the intended use for the car (street, strip or both)?
 

Zrussian13

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Hellion says their top mount is capable of 1200hp while the sleeper is capable of 2000hp so it looks like they feel the sleeper kit is better for big power too. I have no experience with the top mount but I've DD a sleeper car at 750ish hp for two years now and it runs strong.

One issue I had is the vbands don't seal great so I had to wrap the flanges with muffler repair tape before putting the clamps on. It solved the issue but if the top mount kit is the same way it would look kinda ghetto wrapping it up in the engine bay. And if you don't wrap it I'd be worried about all the extra heat in the engine bay. May not be an issue with the top mount but just some food for thought.
 

wazslow

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I don't like the top mount kit just based on how much heat is located by all of the plastic parts in the engine bay. The bottom mount kit works really well. I've had no issues with mine.
 

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LS1Coupe

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I went with the Sleeper kit.

The oiling system is more complicated with the scavenge pump but I can't image the heat the top mount must make inside of the engine bay.
 

noshine4mine

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Aren't the Turbos a little smaller on the top mount kit? Likely the reason for less power. The standard low mount size are 62mm. I would guess the top mount is 55mm because of space constraints.

Let me tell you about another "super nice" aspect of the low mount kit. When its time to change the trans fluid (10 spd auto) you will be doing that with the passengers side Turbo off of it. The turbo is right in the way of the dip stick on the Autos.
Me and a friend installed a new Torque converter tuesday and we are going to change the fluid/filter tonight. To get the level right we are going to have to bring it up to operating temp with the passenger Turbo off the manifold.... It is going to be loud and hot.
 
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15GTPP

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The top mount is not nearly as efficient as the sleeper kit. There is a lot more piping involved for both the ic and exhaust. IMO the only pro of the kit is that you get to see the turbos when you pop the hood.

I have the sleeper kit and my power is right around your power goals with a built motor. My motor is stock with opg/cs. The car easily put down over 1000whp on 15lbs. Car has been running strong for 2+ years now. Car sees 16lbs occasionally and this thing just eats. I feel as long as you have good fuel the motor will last.
 

noshine4mine

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Hey everyone,


Going to be acquiring the Hellion top mount kit on my ’20 Mustang GT.

I’m getting this kit installed via Palm Beach Dyno / RareFab.



Pierre at Palm Beach was trying to sway me away from getting a top mount kit, and rather I get the street sleeper.

Due to it being a more efficient system, and he mentioned the top mount kit might have oil pressure issues at the power level I’m aiming for.

and that the kit is mostly intended for looks and not really big power.



My power goal is 1000-1150whp.



Before getting the engine built the car will be set at 900-950.



So I say all of this to ask. Has anyone with the kit experienced any issues? .

He mentioned not a lot of their customers who do that kit push it that far.



Thanks in advance for the input.

Are you getting a Fuel System too?
900-950whp is going to be hard on a stock trans, not saying it wont work but you are pushing it. Even At 600-650 ish wheel you will need to get some drag radials. Street tires will be like driving on ice. It will be a good idea to get the wheel hop upgrades for the rear suspension. I Just wish someone would have explained to me the can of worms I was opening by putting FI on my car. Totally worth it though, my car runs like a raped ape.
 

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Zrussian13

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Are you getting a Fuel System too?
900-950whp is going to be hard on a stock trans, not saying it wont work but you are pushing it. Even At 600-650 ish wheel you will need to get some drag radials. Street tires will be like driving on ice. It will be a good idea to get the wheel hop upgrades for the rear suspension. I Just wish someone would have explained to me the can of worms I was opening by putting FI on my car. Totally worth it though, my car runs like a raped ape.
Are you still running pump gas or did you switch to E and up the boost?
 

LS1Coupe

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Aren't the Turbos a little smaller on the top mount kit? Likely the reason for less power. The standard low mount size are 62mm. I would guess the top mount is 55mm because of space constraints.

Let me tell you about another "super nice" aspect of the low mount kit. When its time to change the trans fluid (10 spd auto) you will be doing that with the passengers side Turbo off of it. The turbo is right in the way of the dip stick on the Autos.
Me and a friend installed a new Torque converter tuesday and we are going to change the fluid/filter tonight. To get the level right we are going to have to bring it up to operating temp with the passenger Turbo off the manifold.... It is going to be loud and hot.
I just replaced the A10 in my 18. I see no reason you have to take the turbo off to set the fluid level.
 

noshine4mine

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I just replaced the A10 in my 18. I see no reason you have to take the turbo off to set the fluid level.
Really??? We couldnt get my trans out with out taking the turbos off the manifolds. And what it looked like to me was the turbo was completely in the way of the dip stick. I was planing on at least putting the turbo up on the manifold and double checking for room to get to the dip stick.

What version kit do you have? do you have two little oil drain backs on the turbos or one big one in the middle? We couldnt get to the bell housing bolts\ starter with the turbos still on it. im using the base ball bearing turbos (powder coated black).
 
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wumbo5.0

wumbo5.0

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What is the intended use for the car (street, strip or both)?


Strictly street.
I drive it daily looking for trouble 80% of the time lol.

Which honestly I should stop before I lose the car but oh well.

It's strictly used in the South FL area, so stop and go traffic is involved here.
I sway away from the mid mount because I inspect job sites in the car as well AND it tends to be rocky and what not, would like to avoid damaging anything.

Also since we're talking about this being driven only in South FL we have torrential downpours here out of the blue all of the time. That's a non issue. The real issue is hitting standing water or a puddle when its dark out in the wee hours of the morning on my way to work.

That's the only reason why I'd go top instead.
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