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Had to Jump Start...Bat?? Let's Troubleshoot

Egparson202

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Can’t blame them. In fact I’m validating their decision by doubling down on that logic. I replaced my 3 year old OE battery with the Antigravity ATX20-HD, which is much lighter, more expensive and potentially more temperamental. All for performance gains on track.
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WD Pro

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That's a near £500 battery in the UK and you fit my statement perfectly :

"but in most cases it takes an enthusiast (not an OE) to pay for it ... :like:"

With you goals / requirements, it sounds like a great choice :like:

WD :like:
 

CANTWN4LSN

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Am I correct in stating that even when parked modern car electronics put a drain on batteries that will discharge them over time and shorten battery life compared to older vehicles without all these features? I keep my tended for 5 months of winter hibernation for that reason rather than disconnecting it for that time.
I replaced my original at three years and will replace the current one at 3 or 4 years. I think it is cheap insurance as opposed to being stranded somewhere.
 

WD Pro

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Am I correct in stating that even when parked modern car electronics put a drain on batteries that will discharge them over time and shorten battery life compared to older vehicles without all these features?
Yes.

I believe in the case of the Mustang, locking the car puts some of the electronics to sleep quicker than leaving it unlocked.

Depending on plate materials and chemical impurities, lead acid batteries will self discharge over time anyway and your 5 months would be towards the limit of where I would feel comfortable (even on a new completely disconnected battery) without knowing the exact spec of the battery you are using.

You will do it no harm (and dodge a lot of potential problems) by keeping your car / that battery on a good quality tender / intelligent charger etc :like:

WD :like:
 

460Fred

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Oohhh, don’t know that I agree with that one. In fact, I know I don’t. The battery in my truck is at least 15 years old. Yes, 15. And even when looking at the life of the battery in other cars I’ve owned, that would most certainly not be cheap insurance; that’s a losing proposition no matter how you slice it.
Sorry that’s all you got out of my post.
I clearly stated the three year replacement recommendation pertained to our GT350’s. If you read many past posts regarding OE battery service life, you’ll come to the same conclusion….After three years, you’re on borrowed time.
 

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Vlad Soare

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Am I correct in stating that even when parked modern car electronics put a drain on batteries that will discharge them over time and shorten battery life compared to older vehicles without all these features?
Yes. According to the service manual, a residual current drain between 25 and 50 mA is normal. More than 50 mA is a problem.
This current draw will not necessarily shorten the life of the battery, provided you make sure it never depletes (i.e. you keep it on a tender when the car is stored for a long time).
 
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ChipG

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You can't fight the "iron triangle" - cheap/fast/reliable, pick any two.
 

GRNMSTA

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The 2nd alternative is BXT 96R-590
That model is standard in the Bullitt. Car was purchased in Feb 2020 and cranking has been getting noticeably slower even though I had been maintaining with a trickle charger. It failed the dealer-performed load test today so they replaced it under warranty.
 

DougS550

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Welp, so this is a first for me. First time she let me down and stranded. And it came uber surprisingly quick too...IDK.

Been sitting for about two weeks, but plugged in on the charger (green light) the entire time. I am religious about plugging in the battery, no matter low long or short it sits.

Was out running some errands to day. Car driving 100% normal. Completely great. First stop, the restart was juuusssttt barely enough to garner a slight look and a "what was that?". But nothing more. All normal and off I went. Second stop, for lunch. Come out, no dice. Cranked and cranked, but cranking rapidly slowed down and thus no start.

Pulled out the AntiGravity microstart and she jumped right off, zero issues, no long cranking, no delay. Completely normal start. But here's what I want to inquire about because I darn near never monitor my voltage, thus IDK.

I took the long way home, about a 40 min drive with a mix of town and freeway. This time monitoring voltage. Here's the overall of what I observed during the drive;

> Normal steady state driving voltage 12.8 +- .2. Note, RPM had zero bearing on voltage.
> Decelerating from any speed, voltage up into the 14's.
> Idle voltage 12.2

Here's what I thought was weird...throughout the entire drive of mixed condtions, I could change the voltage between the three stated conditions with the throttle at will. Let off the gas, voltage up in the 14's. Touch the gas, back down to high 12's. Idle, 12.2 religiously.

The only outlier was, once I got home, idle was 12.2. Turned on max AC, idle went up to 13.1. Turned off AC, idle dropped to 12.6 and stayed there rock solid. Never went back down to the 12.2.

Let the car sit for 20 minutes and restart. The restart was probably a 90% normal crank/start. Voltage was immediately at 13.5 for 20-30 seconds or better, and then right back down to 12.2.

Any thoughts?

Oh yeah, throughout today and throughout all time previously...completely normal car. No lights, no other electrical symptoms, no bugs, no gremlins, nada.
Sorry to hear of your troubles. I was wondering, where do you hook up the Negative side cable from your charger? I found out these mustangs charging system are different than some other cars. Good Luck
 

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K4fxd

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The BMS bases its strategy on the exact specifications of the stock battery.
I thought this too. I was out of state without my forscan cable and my battery died. I replaced it with an AGM with larger capacity. 4 days later when I got home I hooked up forscan planing to tell the car it has a new AGM battery. Well the car already knew what battery was installed. So somehow the computers in these cars can tell what kind of battery is in it and it's capacity.

Kind of spooky actually. Also tells me doing a battery reset is a waste of time and/or money.
 
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galaxy

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Sorry to hear of your troubles. I was wondering, where do you hook up the Negative side cable from your charger? I found out these mustangs charging system are different than some other cars. Good Luck
Pos & Neg leads for the charger go straight to the battery terminals. Been like this for five years now. Zero issues.
 
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galaxy

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Oh…and since my thread came back up, here’s the latest.

Got my AG in and it’s pretty incredible. This car has never cranked this fast, even when brand new. You can see my charger leads connected in the one pic.

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387A4ECC-E485-48A5-858F-3CADA7DB141E.jpeg
 

K4fxd

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where do you hook up the Negative side cable from your charger?
I've got mine hooked to the ground bolt on the passenger strut tower, the hot is attached to the cable in the fuse box that goes straight to the battery. I think it is the one closest to the battery box.
 

DougS550

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I've got mine hooked to the ground bolt on the passenger strut tower, the hot is attached to the cable in the fuse box that goes straight to the battery. I think it is the one closest to the battery box.
That's where I have my Neg - POS wires connected to. I also do a BMS reset each time I disconnect my battery cables for what ever reason. I also switched my battery old trickle charger with one that is an automatic, maintainer, Trickle charger. I also hard wired in a connected with the connector end sits just front of my upper grill. When I connect my charger, maintainer I don't have to open my hood. Makes it easier.

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lol

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