G-LOC R10 experiences?

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes & Chassis' started by BimmerDriver, Jun 29, 2020 at 12:18 PM.

  1. BimmerDriver

    BimmerDriver Well-Known Member

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    I bought some used Steeda slotted 2-piece rotors from a fellow forum member, and he threw in the G-LOC R10 front pads. I bought new R8 rear pads. The seller claimed about 10K street miles and one autocross on the brakes, so not much wear at all.

    I also bled the brakes with new ATE fluid. I put about 150 miles on the car before the track day, an HPDE at VIR North last weekend. Temps in the high 80s.

    My car is a 2020 GT, base, no options, 6-speed. I am an advanced driver (former instructor) with 20+ years of HPDE, but I'm getting old and I take it easy. Not that I paid much attention to speed, but I estimate 110 at the end of the straight, braking to about 45 for the turn. I tend to brake late. No ABS, typically. Michelin Pilot Sport.

    Overall I was very pleased with the brake performance, good bite, excellent performance, little fading. However, there was a terrible build-up of pad material, and my first few times in each new session, when braking hard the car sounded and felt horrible, lots of noise and vibration. After my 100 mile drive home, looking at the rotors they don't look too bad, but you can (hopefully) see a little bit of material still left on the rotors. I always take a nice easy cool down lap, and a few times afterwards I moved the car a few feet to let the rotors cool more evenly. I've never used G-LOC before (typically I was a Performance Friction guy) and never experienced this kind of build-up.20200629_114825.jpg 20200629_114856.jpg

    So, my question is, is this normal for the G-LOC, or does anyone have any suggestions? I've had cross-drilled rotors before, but never these cheese-grater slotted things.
     
  2. Brian@BMVK

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    Without proper brake cooling, this will happen with these pads. You need cooling ducts or the combination of PP1 belly pan & splitter + brake cooling deflectors on the control arms to get adequate airflow to them. The latter is more effective and doesn't interfere with steering lock. Before your next event, you will want to scuff the pads and rotors to remove that smeared build-up.
     
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    BimmerDriver

    BimmerDriver Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Brian.

    Any suggestions on what to use to clean up and scuff these items?

    Also, anyone have a source to locate the part numbers on the control arm air deflectors?
     
  4. kz

    kz Well-Known Member

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    Hawk once told me to use 100 grit (? - not sure about that) sand paper to clean the rotor (since for some reason I was trying to use their pads).
     
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  5. JustDSM

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    I have a few extra sets of the PP1 control arm deflectors. If you'd like a set to mount to your arms I'd be happy to send them to you for the cost of shipping.
     
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    BimmerDriver

    BimmerDriver Well-Known Member

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    You rock! PM on the way...

    What a great bunch of guys on this forum!
     
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  7. Kermitz

    Kermitz Well-Known Member

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    Do the base control arms have the 3 threaded holes in them?
     
  8. Brian@BMVK

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    80 grit sandpaper.

    Since you don't have the PP arms, this would be best bet (there's also data to support why Ford included deflectors on the PP arms):
    https://vorshlag-store.com/products/vorshlag-s550-brake-cooling-deflector-kit

    The PP belly pan has the integrated tunnels, but if it's like the 2015-2017 cars, requires the PP front splitter/lip to fit properly.
     
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    BimmerDriver

    BimmerDriver Well-Known Member

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    I'll be jacking up the car and replacing the OE stuff today, but from first glance it appears that they do not. Any chance that one of you PP1 guys could snap a picture sometime and let me know how it attaches? I could probably drill some holes without too much trouble.
     
  10. JustDSM

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    I'm still pretty new to the S550 platform, so If the base arms don't have the threaded holes that'll be a problem. I do have my PP1 take off's that I could also send with the deflectors, but I think one of the boots got a tear in it. If you're ok with that, I can throw them in for a few extra bucks since they're quite heavy to ship.
     
  11. Brian@BMVK

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    The base arms do not have the holes at all. If one is not replacing those arms, then Vorshlag offers deflectors for the base GT arms.
     
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    BimmerDriver

    BimmerDriver Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the link Brian. That's probably a better idea than me drilling holes into major suspension components...
     
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  13. Brian@BMVK

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    They're quality parts!
     
  14. Norm Peterson

    Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter

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    #14 Norm Peterson, Jun 29, 2020 at 6:31 PM
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2020 at 6:43 PM
    Sounds like the R10/R8 combination may not be quite enough pad, at least for your current level of brake cooling. I don't know if the slots are adding to the temperature or if they're in any way responsible for the deposits.

    An instructor drove my car for about half a session when it had the Carbotech XP10's up front and he didn't think that was enough pad for his driving. I'm not sure what was out back, would have been either XP8's or XP10's. I didn't get the deposits, or at least not enough to cause any vibration, but on my half of the session the brakes didn't feel quite the same as what I was accustomed to. I do recall that they did recover for my next full session, though.


    Norm
     
  15. shogun32

    shogun32 Well-Known Member

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    so 4-pot brakes. You can do my 'dryer vent' ghetto air-scoops. Pretty sure I still have a set of nearly new PP lateral links with the deflectors. I replaced with the roll-center correcting version.
     
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