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FP Plugs vs Denso

brianbr

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I'm not saying they didn't change the plugs although I do have a hard time believing it.

Let's see some part numbers though, make a believer out of me, maybe I should be running a plug two steps colder...
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Siege

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I'm not saying they didn't change the plugs although I do have a hard time believing it.

Let's see some part numbers though, make a believer out of me, maybe I should be running a plug two steps colder...
Straight from the owner's manuals online:

Screenshot_20220513-165729_Drive.jpg

Screenshot_20220513-165838_Drive.jpg

Screenshot_20220513-165615_Drive.jpg


I didn't hear it I've seen it. My new 2020 has heat range 7 plugs, it says right on them. They are NGK plugs manufactured for Ford, the only real difference between them and the 6510 is the gap. The 6510s come with a smaller gap. This is most likely why Whipple is now recommending the Denso heat range 8 plugs. I called them and they specifically said not to use the 6510s on boosted gen 3 cars.
 

brianbr

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No it's for real. A colder plug definitely can benefit a car if the original was not the best choice in the first place. They only made the change after 2 years. Power and compression were both bumped up for Gen 3. They must have learned something. Changes happen all the time.
I did some research and you were right, it looks like they did make a change. The plug 20+ number looks to be superseded twice and looks really similar to the Cobrajet plugs I'm using. I wonder what they found to make the switch to a colder plug.

Just for S&G's I put a set of ITV24's back in my car today to see how it runs, It ran fine once the engine was up to temp. I didn't datalog to see if anything weird was going on though. The Denso plugs are about 1/4 shorter than every other plug for this car so maybe I didn't have the boots pushed on all the way last time.
 
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BrianH87

BrianH87

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I did some research and you were right, it looks like they did make a change. The plug 20+ number looks to be superseded twice and looks really similar to the Cobrajet plugs I'm using. I wonder what they found to make the switch to a colder plug.

Just for S&G's I put a set of ITV24's back in my car today to see how it runs, It ran fine once the engine was up to temp. I didn't datalog to see if anything weird was going on though. The Denso plugs are about 1/4 shorter than every other plug for this car so maybe I didn't have the boots pushed on all the way last time.
Honestly, who knows? Around that time it may have just been supply chain issues.

I noticed the same thing about the Denso's. They are certainly shorter. I was actually worried about the coils reaching. But lots of guys run them, so it's shouldn't be a big deal. Keep us posted if you notice any differences.
 

Angrey

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If someone put a gun to my head and said "you have to pick between a spark plug that has a heat range too hot and one that has a heat range too cold" I'd absolutely pick the range that's too cold.

A cold plug will foul more and possibly misfire, causing rough starts, rough idle or rough running. A hot plug will eventually lead to detonation and preignition (aka nuke city).

Ideally, you get it right, but the best way to know for sure is to A) Put the colder plugs in, run them and see if you get any codes or misfires and observe them to see if you're getting carbon buildup. If not, you're GTG. If so, you might consider moving hotter. B) You can ask the tuners and builders who've already anecdotally learned this type of information from previous cars/experience and simply ask what they've had success with in the past.

Also remember that Ford isn't a race organization (or accept the fact that they may not necessarily run what they claim on FRPP information sections). OE manufacturers have to be concerned with emissions and EPA.

So it's curious that they would recommend plugs with a .035 gap for boost. The larger gap while good/better for emissions, can lead to spark blowout and also makes the plug run hotter.

So keep in mind, some of the heat range choice has to do with how big you're going to gap them. A colder plug will run hotter with a giant gap. A hotter plug will run cooler with a smaller gap. This is because it takes more energy to create an arc across a larger gap. So big gapped plugs will naturally run hotter, regardless of what's going on in the combustion chamber.

Ideally, you want a plug that's gapped large enough not to misfire, but small enough not to be blown out. Then it should be paired with that setting for a temperature range that runs hot enough to burn off deposits but not so hot that it melts the electrode or creates white chicken shit tips and potentially gives preignition or detonation. All this brain damage has probably been worked out by trial and error and experience with your builder/tuner. I don't always defer to them but on something like plugs, they've probably seen enough first hand data to be trusted (and it's not a matter of just because something's done that way....the failures and performance yield feedback that boxes them into their recommendations).
 

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Dfeeds

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I've been trying to find info on the change in heat range, on and off, for quite a while. I have a 2019 so the 548. To those of you that have playes around, does moving from a heat range 6 to 7 make a tangible difference?

So the sp-551; or the sp-589 if you go with the 2022 MY.
 

brianbr

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I ordered a set of Brisk rr12ys plugs which are their projected tip two steps colder plug. It is the equivalent to an NGK heat range 8. So far the car loves them. No issues to report. The Brisk plugs look more robust in their construction also.

20220619_120559.jpg
 

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illtal

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When Big Joe Sherman states something lost power a calendar date is irrelevant.
So that isn't the same plug: lol
Tell Big Joe 4 HP is within tolerance for a dyno.
 

illtal

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So the E3 from the past isn’t the E3 of today ?
Do you agree that E3 have more than one product?
How relevant is a product from 2010 to a product from 2022?
I'm sure something has changed in a decade.
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