First Oil change

[skytop1]

Shenkey58 Thanks for the info!

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[Shenkey58]

I should let you all know when I did oil changes on my 2015 GT-
1st-374 miles-had some small silvery debris in bottom of drain pan-normal for new engine in my opinion.
2nd-1340 miles-no silvery debris at all-very good in my opinion -not to see anything on 2nd oil change.
Currently at 2500 miles-winter now here in the Northeast-car not getting out much now-plan to change it again in the spring.
This is a collector car to me at age 57-so I am being very careful taking care of my baby ya know.....Merry Christmas to you all !

 

[skytop1]

Even in the face of the crashing price of crude, the price of engine oil has spiked higher.
Since I need 9 quarts for each oil change (PP), the local discount auto store is selling individual quarts at a stunning $9.99 each. Walmart is selling a very limited selection of synthetic for $8 a quart.

It clearly appears the only way to buy engine oil today is to take advantage of package sales with filter. Most every sale I have seen is for only a 5 quart jug.

I have checked Pep Boys, O'Reilly's, Auto Zone and Advanced Auto parts for oil sales. All offer 5 quarts deals. Amazon offers 6 quarts pricing incl shipping but without a (premium) filter. Anyone have suggestions?

 

[daltron]

I changed mine at 1,058 miles. Even if it isn't needed for "break in" (although some oil filter cutouts here say otherwise...) then the worst thing that happened is... I got much better oil in my engine. AMSOIL SS for the win. Even at 5K mile intervals, it's not like it's expensive.

 

[dgc333]

Walmart is selling a very limited selection of synthetic for $8 a quart.

Just got 5qt jugs of Penzoil full synthetic at Walmart for $22 ($4.40/qt) on a price roll back.

Mobil 1, Castrol, Quaker State and Valvoline synthetic was $26 for a 5qt jug ($5.20 per qt) and Mobil 1s top of the line extended performace synthetic was $28 or $5.60 per qt. at Walmart.

The only time I would buy oil in a qt container is if I was on the road away from home.

Dave

 

[skytop1]

Just got 5qt jugs of Penzoil full synthetic at Walmart for $22 ($4.40/qt) on a price roll back.

Mobil 1, Castrol, Quaker State and Valvoline synthetic was $26 for a 5qt jug ($5.20 per qt) and Mobil 1s top of the line extended performace synthetic was $28 or $5.60 per qt. at Walmart.

The only time I would buy oil in a qt container is if I was on the road away from home.

Dave: Those are excellent prices! I was in my Wally World about 3 days ago and those price drops were not in effect yet. I bought four 'advertised specials' of 5 quarts 5W-20 of Pennzoil Platinum full Synthetic with the deluxe K&N filter for $29.99 at Advanced Auto. (GT with PP takes almost 9 qts) I am partial to Pennzoil. For about 20 years, I had engines custom built and the my engine builder always insisted on using Pennzoil. I carry on that tradition.

Today, IMO, all premium synthetic oils are far superior in lubrication ability, better viscosity performance in extreme temperatures, higher film strength and greater chemical and shear stability than the oil of 20 years ago and light years ahead of organic oils. I can still remember myself changing the oil in my 1965 fuelie Vette at the local Gulf Gas station on a Sunday morning opening the cardboard individual cans of straight S.A.E. 30 weight oil. What we have today is gold!

Considering the very high quality filter, I feel I received a darn good value. Every month, a different oil brand goes on sale across the country. I will sure check out the oil on my next visit to Wally World on Tuesday. Thanks!

 

[4 ROUSH]

Did my first change at 1000. Put in full synthetic Mobile 1. You can go much longer with it. There is no need to change every 3000 miles these days , but many still do. Preference is the move here.

 

[skytop1]

Engine builders recommend spending the first 650 miles being careful not to race the engine, to keep your engine revs between 2,000 and 4,000, and to avoid traveling at a single speed or RPM for prolonged periods since varying engine speeds are vital to proper break-in as they expose internal parts to a wider range of heat, pressures and stress. Always changing engine speed and load during break in encourages the piston rings to move slightly, which helps creates a more uniform wear surface between the ring and cylinder wall.

 

[AZStang]

You guys make me feel bad for going a full 5,000 miles before changing her oil...

Don't. I changed mine at 5,200, and my mechanic of 20 plus years told me I could have waited another 2,000 with no ill effect on the motor.

On the flip side if someone feels warm and fuzzy changing sooner have at it:cheers:

 

[daltron]

Don't. I changed mine at 5,200, and my mechanic of 20 plus years told me I could have waited another 2,000 with no ill effect on the motor.

On the flip side if someone feels warm and fuzzy changing sooner have at it:cheers:

Every engine is different, but I don't know anyone who wants to run a synthetic blend in their performance car for 7,000 miles... I'd trust oil analysis for YOUR motor over anyone's opinion.

 

[redline727]

Getting ready to do my first oil change at 1k. Got a sweet deal on a case of Royal Purple HPS. I called them up and had a nice discussion with Jim with Royal Purple technical service. I had some questions about the differences in their API licensed oil and HPS. He was very helpful and decided the HPS is the best for my needs. Found a great deal on eBay for 12qts for $87 shipped!!! Jim confirmed the part number for me and confirmed that's about as good as a deal as I'm gonna find. So will sticking with HPS and FL500s filter every 5k or one year. Whatever comes first. Probably will be 1 year for me.

 

[extrachrispy]

Chiming in relatively late on this thread. Based upon 540 Rat's blog, I'm going to change out to 0W-20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability--the highest film-strength 0W-20 of any oil he's tested, and the oil he personally uses. I can't find it at Wally World, and it's $8/quart at AutoZone, but given that this is the best car I've ever owned, I'll spend it for the cold-start wear protection. First change will be at 1000 miles.

Upthread, a commenter made a good point about a magnetic drain plug masking any Fe wear particle measurements from UOA (though the tradeoff is that it pulls those wear particles out of suspension so that they don't keep cycling through bearings). I have a spiffy blue magnetic plug on order, though now I might not bother to install it.

There's an interesting post on BITOG (also posted upthread) that points out that, per 1000 miles, the Fe particle accretion rate is *lower* for an extended drain interval than it is for a short interval, at least as far out as 10,000 miles. TBN and TAN become the limiting factors for condemning the oil at that point.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/

 

[Ebm]

Does anyone know the oil filter and oil drain bolt torque specs by chance? I'll be doing my first oil change in a week or so.

 

[1380KPOI]

With modern day machinery with robots assembling with a near perfect smooth finish, why not just do the first oil change at 6 months/5,000 miles? For those of you so worried about the possible metal shavings then just add on an oil filter magnet immediately to your new vehicle

 

[extrachrispy]

With modern day machinery with robots assembling with a near perfect smooth finish, why not just do the first oil change at 6 months/5,000 miles? For those of you so worried about the possible metal shavings then just add on an oil filter magnet immediately to your new vehicle

That's a reasonable question.

Speaking for myself, I want the cold-start protection that 0W20 offers compared to the 5W20 factory fill. It's also an opportunity to add a magnetic drain plug.

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