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If you want to prevent chafing, it's generally good to cover the lines with electrical heat shrink tubing. You'll have to pull the lines to do it, but it really helps. Epoxy these where you can and tie to them to keep the lines from moving. https://www.newark.com/thomas-betts/tc-105/cable-tie-mtg-base-aluminum-25/dp/12C2341 There are rivet on options as well.
I'll add that to the future projects list. I wrapped all the contact points so it should be fine for now.
I'll need to take the front off again for ducting but I want to see how it all performs as-is.
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As long as they're just not floating around, you'll be good.
 

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...
I sold the Leroy tire trailer, removed the hitch from the car (36 lbs lost), got a new set of track tires (so excited to be rid of the RR's), and did some more cutting.
...
@Ewheels do you have a post in this thread describing why you got tired of the wheel trailer? Also, do you think putting a ball on a ZL1 tow ring would be strong enough for a trailer?
 

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@Ewheels do you have a post in this thread describing why you got tired of the wheel trailer? Also, do you think putting a ball on a ZL1 tow ring would be strong enough for a trailer?
Hey Philip,
I got rid of the tire trailer for a number of reasons...some more fundamental and some more personal.
The big one: God forbid I have an accident at the track or something breaks and I have to have the car towed home. No big deal, I have a 200 mile range with AAA but how do I get the trailer home?
Other issues for me were the fact that I got the trailer thinking I would no longer be able to fit 4 tires in the car with the roll bar but turns out I still can so really I never needed the trailer in the first place. I also didn't have a great place at my house to store the thing. I had to keep it in the backyard which was only accessible by a narrow side gate so I had to stand the thing up on a floor dolly and wheel it back and forth. It is not exactly light weight.
Now I have a truck so definitely have no need for one.

I would not trust a tow ball attached to a tow hook. I would not think it could support the load.
I am currently selling my Curt hitch receiver if you're interested...
 

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Hey Philip,
I got rid of the tire trailer for a number of reasons...some more fundamental and some more personal.
The big one: God forbid I have an accident at the track or something breaks and I have to have the car towed home. No big deal, I have a 200 mile range with AAA but how do I get the trailer home?
Other issues for me were the fact that I got the trailer thinking I would no longer be able to fit 4 tires in the car with the roll bar but turns out I still can so really I never needed the trailer in the first place. I also didn't have a great place at my house to store the thing. I had to keep it in the backyard which was only accessible by a narrow side gate so I had to stand the thing up on a floor dolly and wheel it back and forth. It is not exactly light weight.
Now I have a truck so definitely have no need for one.

I would not trust a tow ball attached to a tow hook. I would not think it could support the load.
I am currently selling my Curt hitch receiver if you're interested...
Imo, tire trailer is a great option if you have enough space to store it without loading/unloading every time. Would be great if you can just attach it with tires/toolbox/canopy/gas cans already on it and go. If you have to go through all the load and unload routine, and then carry the trailer itself from backyard, that just makes everything more complicated.

renting a small trailer from uhaul is another very economical option and there is no headache with storing it.
I would not trust a tow ball attached to a tow hook.
I doubt it's even legal 😆 any highway crash would transform the car into a medieval trebuchet
 

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i was looking at the csf 42mm. 70mm is wild didnt even know that was an option. thanks for the info!! it says single pass any reason you went with that over a triple pass
Based on the information from this forum and my research, triple pass is not a good option unless you have specifically built custom cooling system. Short of C&R, Dewitts seemed like top of the line option with great reputation, and the biggest single pass thing that I could fit. I had to do some minor tweaks die to Roush supercharger, but I made it work. It should fit like a glove into stock engine.

I also think that it's a bit of an overkill for NA coyote, but then it's better to overbuild when it comes to cooling. What problem are you trying to solve?
 

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no problem really , more looking to avoid one. I got my car somewhat recently and im starting to try to prep it for track use. im new to the platform so im researching what all i should do to keep it cool on track. some organizations run 30 minute sessions locally and my other car (fiesta st) really struggles even with nice cooling mods. i was hoping to get some real track experienced info and avoid the headaches ive had with the fiesta.
 

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You'll want to add the oil cooler ASAP. My setup is featured in the Track Time Limited thread, post #443.

Then you'll find 30 minute sessions will overheat your diff. My DIY cooler is posted in the DIY section. You could do what I did by mail ordering the A10 cooler for cheap. If I did it again I would make less fancy hoses by using plain hose and more crimped fittings.

Until then wrap your exhaust around the diff, and run 140wt oil. 15 feet of wrap is enough. Use gear clamps at each end for reliability (4 clamps total).
 

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no problem really , more looking to avoid one. I got my car somewhat recently and im starting to try to prep it for track use. im new to the platform so im researching what all i should do to keep it cool on track. some organizations run 30 minute sessions locally and my other car (fiesta st) really struggles even with nice cooling mods. i was hoping to get some real track experienced info and avoid the headaches ive had with the fiesta.
Imo, you don't need to touch radiator until you address other issues. Start with ducting around the radiator, not just the bottom but plug all the holes. If half of the air is going around it and not through it, there is not much difference on how big it is. Then you'd want to do something with hot air extraction. And as GTP mentioned, do an oil cooler. Then it's transmission and diff cooling, suspension work, different wheels and tires, seats - it just never ends 😆

Or do yourself a favor and if you like your FiST behavior on track, get an Elantra N. Zero substantial work needed and it handles 40 minute open track sessions just fine. I wish I did this sooner and didn't dump so much money into Mustang.
 

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Imo, you don't need to touch radiator until you address other issues. Start with ducting around the radiator, not just the bottom but plug all the holes. If half of the air is going around it and not through it, there is not much difference on how big it is. Then you'd want to do something with hot air extraction. And as GTP mentioned, do an oil cooler. Then it's transmission and diff cooling, suspension work, different wheels and tires, seats - it just never ends 😆

Or do yourself a favor and if you like your FiST behavior on track, get an Elantra N. Zero substantial work needed and it handles 40 minute open track sessions just fine. I wish I did this sooner and didn't dump so much money into Mustang.
All so true. My friend just bought an Elantra and loves it on track. He'll let me drive it on track soon.

But he admits that even though he dailies it, it still only has a tight back seat and a small compartment for a "trunk".
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