ESS kit install issues.

[Swtbabybilly]

When are you getting the wengerd tune? And is the belt still jumping off?

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[LOL WUT]

Sorry to hear of these troubles.

The only other time I’ve seen gas coming out of the exhaust like this was due to faulty injectors. But that’d only explain part of the issues.

It’s a been a while since I deleted my IMRC but I do recall capping that port in the back like you had done.

Hopefully the wengard start up tune sorts things out in conjunction with the 120mm pulley solving the belt issues.

 

[TheButterBomber]

When are you getting the wengerd tune? And is the belt still jumping off?

I didn’t purchase one yet, I sent them an email last night explaining everything and my situation. I requested if I could get a start up tune to rule out Lund’s tuning decisions. And if it works I’ll be switching.

 

[Coyotebawl]

Did you do any data logging on any of the times you did start it for your tuner to review ? If you keep running it with fuel dumping like that you are going to wash out the cylinder walls.

 

[TheButterBomber]

Did you do any data logging on any of the times you did start it for your tuner to review ? If you keep running it with fuel dumping like that you are going to wash out the cylinder walls.

I’ve sent over 3 datalogs when it was running. Now when I try to start it, it simply won’t stay on and dies out.

 

[TheButterBomber]

I’ve uninstalled the blower, took a look at the bracket routing and all the pulleys. There is literally nothing wrong. Everything has been checked well over a dozen times now. The belt is just simply wrong. It is not short enough. I don’t understand what the issue is. ESS says they’ve never seen a belt jump around like that or the system be so loose. Well it is. And both ESS and Lund tell me it’s simply my fault and I’m on my own. There’s nothing wrong on my end. I truly don’t know what to do anymore.

when attempting to start it now, it won’t run. Throws cam codes but no misfire codes. Runs at 500 rpm when starting and just dies out and reeks of fuel.

 

[TheButterBomber]

Sorry to hear of these troubles.

The only other time I’ve seen gas coming out of the exhaust like this was due to faulty injectors. But that’d only explain part of the issues.

It’s a been a while since I deleted my IMRC but I do recall capping that port in the back like you had done.

Hopefully the wengard start up tune sorts things out in conjunction with the 120mm pulley solving the belt issues.

the other post I’ve seen with these issues using the same injectors was Lund’s programming being the issue. I don’t want to say that’s what it is, but I’m running out of options. Honestly it’s the only option I have right now to fall onto.

with capping that line, it runs/it doesn’t run. Nothing seems to be right or make any sense anymore.

the 120mm pulley won’t change anything though. The tensioner barely keeps the belt on. 5mm isn’t going to change anything. I’d have to get a belt that’s practically 40-100mm shorter. Nothing else shows that this is the correct belt. There’s very little tension on the belt.

 

[LOL WUT]

the other post I’ve seen with these issues using the same injectors was Lund’s programming being the issue. I don’t want to say that’s what it is, but I’m running out of options. Honestly it’s the only option I have right now to fall onto.

with capping that line, it runs/it doesn’t run. Nothing seems to be right or make any sense anymore.

the 120mm pulley won’t change anything though. The tensioner barely keeps the belt on. 5mm isn’t going to change anything. I’d have to get a belt that’s practically 40-100mm shorter. Nothing else shows that this is the correct belt. There’s very little tension on the belt.

If it is tuning related it’s absolutely amazing how inconsistent Lund can be. This is coming from someone who used Lund for tuning and had great success but I’d never recommend them to anyone given how many others I see have issues.

 

[Swtbabybilly]

Try the stock file and run with no blower set up, I know its a pain in the ass but if it runs fine then good you now know for sure you got a tune issue if it doesn't you know u have a mechanical issue possibly timed wrong, injector failed, maybe a wire going to the cam position sensor got damaged during the timing job but you atleast know for sure which direction to go

 

[Swtbabybilly]

And since you had your opg gears dont if that oil pump isn't fully seated rite that could throw off the alignment of your belt causing it to pop off because it pushes the crank hub forward, sorry u got all this shit to deal with best of luck

 

[TheButterBomber]

And since you had your opg gears dont if that oil pump isn't fully seated rite that could throw off the alignment of your belt causing it to pop off because it pushes the crank hub forward, sorry u got all this shit to deal with best of luck

The belt doesn’t pop off, it wanted to jump one ridge off the ribbed pulley simply from how much the tensioner is unloaded. It got better and won’t jump off when the smaller and “correct” belt was put on. But look what I’m about to post.

 

[TheButterBomber]

I put 3 marks on the tensioner, the mark on the very tip of the tensioner arm that moves along the outside. The top line represents where the tensioner sits unloaded and the bottom line represents where it is fully traveled. The picture shows when the belt is loaded on the tensioner. It basically has not moved away from being at rest when a belt is on it.

 

[Pistol_91]

Since you removed the blower do what billy suggested. Put the stock injectors back in and stock file and see if it'll even run. The IMRCs locked out will affect fuel trims slightly but it should run good enough to know if the tune is the issue or not.

You said you changed the tensioner out right. Do you have the stock one still?

What were the cam codes?

 

[TheButterBomber]

Since you removed the blower do what billy suggested. Put the stock injectors back in and stock file and see if it'll even run. The IMRCs locked out will affect fuel trims slightly but it should run good enough to know if the tune is the issue or not.

You said you changed the tensioner out right. Do you have the stock one still?

What were the cam codes?

The blower is back on, if I’m gonna COMPLETELY remove the kit then it will take me forever since it’s all back together. And honestly I don’t feel that it’s an instillation error.
I had multiple Ford mechanics help with the build and look over it. They do 5.0 timing chains regularly and followed the book. Used all special tools, and torqued everything. They aren’t familiar with higher power applications but can confidently say the kit is installed right and everything was done right following the instructions to a T. The only thing they/I can imagine being the issue is the belt being too long, causing the tensioner to not have tension and be thrown around. The injectors are causing issues dumping too much fuel into the cylinders. Or the tune isn’t calibrated.

Yes I do have the stock one, and it’s just as bad. There’s no tension being put onto the belt. I’ve seen issues where people need to get bigger belts but haven’t seen anything for smaller yet. Still searching everywhere.

Cam codes:

the thing about the cam codes are: they only happen on passenger side, even when switching the cam sensors. Sometimes only 2 codes are set instead of 4. And sometimes the engine light doesn’t even come on but only when it runs like complete shit.

 

[TheButterBomber]

I’m gonna go buy some shorter belts to try and get that tensioner closer to 80% travel instead of 5%. Any recommendations?

Update: I bought K061020 and K061015 at the parts store. Will update how it tensions.
Should I put the 125 pulley on for now until the 120mm pulley arrives?

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