Engine oil?

[engineermike]

No problem. There’s a myriad of specs and oil tiers and they are changing all the time so it can be confusing if you don’t obsessively study it.

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[SSG 5.0]

No problem. There’s a myriad of specs and oil tiers and they are changing all the time so it can be confusing if you don’t obsessively study it.

I was reading it, but my eye balls keeps going back to that green logo saying turbocharger lol. I’d like thank y’all for all of these knowledge and I did pick up some great pointers.

 

[ApplesAndOranges]

I also exclusively use Penzoil Platinum 5w-30 and plan on using 5w-40 after I attach a supercharger.

The "redesigned for modern turbo charged vehicles" is a label indicating it meets the dexos gen 2 specification, which is a push GM made for greater protection against LSPI and other combustion anomalies, particularly under boost. This specification is also extra important to have with the high compression gen 3 coyote engine.

Fun fact- Chrysler specifies 0w-40 penzoil ultra platinum for all their SRT vehicles. Suposedly it was initially developed for them.

 

[engineermike]

...
Fun fact- Chrysler specifies 0w-40 penzoil ultra platinum for all their SRT vehicles. Suposedly it was initially developed for them.

I believe this is true. It’s also the same oil used by the Penske Indy cars. If you look at voa’s, it’s very different from the other Pennzoil ultra platinums and euro 0w40.

 

[chops44]

Here is an excellent write up on oils. I personally chose Amsoil Signature Series 5W20 for my whipple car.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

 

[engineermike]

Already discussed. See post 54 and 55.

 

[Dominant1]

Sig series Amsoil 5w/50 here no issues I change the oil every 7000 miles..

 

[schmeky]

I’m staying full synthetic although I was told before, once I made a switch to full synthetic, I can’t go back to regular oil or semi synthetic. Never read up on it and kept it like that. I wonder how true was that.

Not true at all. I did a personal comparison in my old street/strip car years ago. Built a small block 350 chevy will quality parts, fresh .030" bore, and logged all clearances, cylinder bore, piston skirts, rod and main journal diameters, crank end play, etc., and drag raced it all season using conventional motor oil.

Tore it down at the end of the season and checked all clearances. Had .005" wear on the top compression ring, second ring was .002" of wear, everything was still dead on. Lightly honed the cylinders and put in a fresh ring set (same brand) and filled it up with synthetic. Used the same main and rod bearings since they mic'ed perfect.

Raced it the next season on the synthetic and tore it down in the off season. Everything still spot on and top compression ring was .004" wear, send ring was .002". Engine consumed a very slight amount of oil for the 2 year period, virtually the same with both oil types.

There is no way an engine knows what it's being lubed with, what matters is that is getting the correct type of oil for the intended usage, and the proper volume of clean oil at high RPM.

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