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Newly built engine consumes oil

Wheysted

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This is the 2nd time around that this shop built the engine( no I will never go back here and I really regret going here to begin with)

First time they built it, the engine was consuming oil ( under high rpm- a few quarts per 600 miles)
Ended up warping the pistons cause it got so low on oil without me noticing

They rebuilt it ( it still had to pay for new pistons and everything) ... now it still consumes oil ( makes power and works fine) but I still have to add about a quart of oil after a night of racing and 200 miles driven ( maybe 4 hard pulls)
I've been told this is from the ring gap and they gapped them more as if it was a race engine
I heard this is safe and isn't problematic as long as I keep oil level topped up

Just sucks having a black bumper and have to always add oil

Any input?
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what was the break in process?
 

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so you never went over 4K during the break in process?
did you ever drive it hard out to redline during the break in process?
if so how often?

i promise these questions matter, the first built motor in my cobra had this issue.
 
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Wheysted

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what was the break in process?
This shop also did the timing wrong BOTH times

I started the car with the 2nd engine and the timing was so bad.. the whole passenger side was wrong and heated up to like 500 degrees right away... so not sure of that could have messed up the rings right away?
 
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Wheysted

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so you never went over 4K during the break in process?
did you ever drive it hard out to redline during the break in process?
if so how often?

i promise these questions matter, the first built motor in my cobra had this issue.
Never saw past 5k and only saw that maybe once or twice
 

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okay so either they just didn't do the job right or your rings didn't seat because you didn't make them seat. i was given this advicew ith my last build and it worked really well

1. heat cycle the engine 10 times (crank from dead cold, let warm up, and turn it off once the fans kick on)
2. change the oil and add lucas with zinc
3. have it tuned or just go drive it and don't baby it at all.

the worst thing to do with a new motor build is baby it.

what kind of oil did you use for break in?
 
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Wheysted

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okay so either they just didn't do the job right or your rings didn't seat because you didn't make them seat. i was given this advicew ith my last build and it worked really well

1. heat cycle the engine 10 times (crank from dead cold, let warm up, and turn it off once the fans kick on)
2. change the oil and add lucas with zinc
3. have it tuned or just go drive it and don't baby it at all.

the worst thing to do with a new motor build is baby it.

what kind of oil did you use for break in?
I also used Lucas oil and did a few heat cycles
Just kind of have to live with it now I guess
 

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gimmie11s

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This shop also did the timing wrong BOTH times

I started the car with the 2nd engine and the timing was so bad.. the whole passenger side was wrong and heated up to like 500 degrees right away... so not sure of that could have messed up the rings right away?
Yep... rings can lose tension quick at a temp like that rendering them useless.
 

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I also used Lucas oil and did a few heat cycles
Just kind of have to live with it now I guess
new motors shouldn't smoke. they should make it right, dude. that's bullshit.

if it was their second try i would say they need to make it right but unfortunately if they screwed the pooch twice you might just have to take the L and move on.

i'd ask for at least a substantial part of the job refund. they shouldn't profit one red cent off a bad job and should by all rights lose money.
 

bonz50

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okay so either they just didn't do the job right or your rings didn't seat because you didn't make them seat. i was given this advicew ith my last build and it worked really well

1. heat cycle the engine 10 times (crank from dead cold, let warm up, and turn it off once the fans kick on)
2. change the oil and add lucas with zinc
3. have it tuned or just go drive it and don't baby it at all.

the worst thing to do with a new motor build is baby it.

what kind of oil did you use for break in?
on all my old race bike motors my break in procedure was to ride about 10-20 miles and do a filter and fluid swap. then we beat the piss out of it. break it in the way you're gonna ride/drive it. high load will seat the rings better/faster. ride/race it for another 3-500 mi then swap from dino oil to synthetic and another new filter. Those motors performed consistently stronger on the dyno than the 'easy' break-in method motors and lasted extremely well. IMHO, manufacturers do these pu$$y ass break-in procedures because of lawyers and accountants. just my .02
 

AvalancheSVT

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on all my old race bike motors my break in procedure was to ride about 10-20 miles and do a filter and fluid swap. then we beat the piss out of it. break it in the way you're gonna ride/drive it. high load will seat the rings better/faster. ride/race it for another 3-500 mi then swap from dino oil to synthetic and another new filter. Those motors performed consistently stronger on the dyno than the 'easy' break-in method motors and lasted extremely well. IMHO, manufacturers do these pu$$y ass break-in procedures because of lawyers and accountants. just my .02
exactly. i didn't do break in miles at all on my cobra and that engine was strong as all hell. never smoked or burnt a drop of oil.
 

Jackson1320

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if the cylinders hit 500* the rings are toast. what kind of rings? what gap? what bore? i bored a coyote one time with a hone and it didn't use oil so you are in a bad spot.
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