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Torinate

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I completely agree with the tuning aspect! I too am running a Lund tune and couldn’t be happier. I remember discussions with them prior to even doing the tune and making sure I had the right equipment and going over goals with the car. For me, I’m not chasing a number and track time is farther down on the list. Most important goal for me was street manners and longevity. I know we left some on the table as far as all out power but the car drives better than it did stock. But, car easily rips 10s at the track. Sure, I could likely drop a tenth two with a more aggressive tune, but it’s a cruiser. I think anyone spending the coin for a supercharger - regardless of which one - one of the most important things if not thee most important thing is a solid, safe and reliable tune. Whipple may be closest, but I think most of the major players in tuning can still make nice improvements in both horsepower and reliability.
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Semp1

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I completely agree with the tuning aspect! I too am running a Lund tune and couldn’t be happier. I remember discussions with them prior to even doing the tune and making sure I had the right equipment and going over goals with the car. For me, I’m not chasing a number and track time is farther down on the list. Most important goal for me was street manners and longevity. I know we left some on the table as far as all out power but the car drives better than it did stock. But, car easily rips 10s at the track. Sure, I could likely drop a tenth two with a more aggressive tune, but it’s a cruiser. I think anyone spending the coin for a supercharger - regardless of which one - one of the most important things if not thee most important thing is a solid, safe and reliable tune. Whipple may be closest, but I think most of the major players in tuning can still make nice improvements in both horsepower and reliability.
Personally my issue with Lund is simply if there is an issue mechanically speaking they won’t be able to figure it out or actually help you. They can look at the data logs, and make suggestions on what they think, but if they can’t figure it out your screwed. Which is the main reason a super reliable shop with a well known tuner is always recommended. I’m sure Lund is great when things go flawlessly but let’s be honest that’s not always the case, it seems especially with the stage 2 Edelbrock kits and now you’re stuck with this tuner you paid for that really can’t do much until you go and either figure out and fix the issue yourself or pay a shop to figure out and fix the issue. To me that’s a recipe for frustration I’m not willing to chance. Listen, for an NA tune I’m sure Lund for an average dude is more than fine. Go for it. But to me, Boost? No thank you. There’s a reason Lund suggest 1050’s only and certain psi (usually 10-11). It’s not gospel it’s an easier injector to tune for, because it’s so good realistically and because that’s what they tune the most and because they don’t want to blow your car up if they decide to give you 12.5psi. Lund I’m sure is great and has been to you. Me, personally, you spend all this money on a blower the next amount of money spent should be at the absolute best shop and tuner you can afford. If Lund is seriously a tuner you want to use then you should probably go to an associated shop who has a very good reputation and use Lund through them.
 
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illtal

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Personally my issue with Lund is simply if there is an issue mechanically speaking they won’t be able to figure it out or actually help you. They can look at the data logs, and make suggestions on what they think, but if they can’t figure it out your screwed. Which is the main reason a super reliable shop with a well known tuner is always recommended. I’m sure Lund is great when things go flawlessly but let’s be honest that’s not always the case, it seems especially with the stage 2 Edelbrock kits and now you’re stuck with this tuner you paid for that really can’t do much until you go and either figure out and fix the issue yourself or pay a shop to figure out and fix the issue. To me that’s a recipe for frustration I’m not willing to chance. Listen, for an NA tune I’m sure Lund for an average dude is more than fine. Go for it. But to me, Boost? No thank you. There’s a reason Lund suggest 1050’s only and certain psi (usually 10-11). It’s not gospel it’s easire injector to tune for, because it’s so good realistically and because that’s what they tune the most and because they don’t want to blow your car up if they decide to give you 12.5psi. Lund I’m sure is great and has been to you But me, personally, you spend all this money on a blower the next amount of money spent should be at the absolute best shop and tuner you can afford. If Lund is seriously a tuner you want to use then you should probably go to an associated shop who has a very good reputation and use Lund through them.
I self installed: for those of us than can do these kinds of jobs it's the best way to go because you know everything about the car and how it what was done to it. I don't trust shops that much but I did find a shop I would submit anyone to. The other shop while I don't have direct experience with them I would not bat an eye to take my car there. Last thing, I don't believe in dyno tuning all that much. It seems like to me that's a real quick way to flatten a wallet for no reason.
 

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I self installed: for those of us than can do these kinds of jobs it's the best way to go because you know everything about the car and how it what was done to it. I don't trust shops that much but I did find a shop I would submit anyone to. The other shop while I don't have direct experience with them I would not bat an eye to take my car there. Last thing, I don't believe in dyno tuning all that much. It seems like to me that's a real quick way to flatten a wallet for no reason.
A dyno is simply a tool. To me great tuners, tune on the street and fine tune with the dyno.
 

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Working to lower underhood heat buildup, especially right above the Airraid box. Verus Engineering heat extractors installed, just trimmed the insulator pad today. Need my edging to clean it up, but of course I can't find it in my garage.... LOL

InsulatorCutAtLouver.jpg
 

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Those of you with fuel systems, do you have a diagram of how the fuel lines are routed? Are you feeding into the HPFP anf the rails from a Y or something else?
 

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Those of you with fuel systems, do you have a diagram of how the fuel lines are routed? Are you feeding into the HPFP anf the rails from a Y or something else?
There are multiple configurations for the fuel lines, you can do single or dual regulator as well. Pump - Line- filter- regulator- y block to rail - hi pressure tee off of rail this kind of configuration must run 58 PSI base pressure. Anyhow your tuner will let you know how they like for it to be set up and/or you tell them what you bought.

Here is Lethal's Return setup with dual regulators.
I don't particularly like this setup but it does work and it prevents needing to run a dual return/yblock situation.
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I'm considering an Edelbrock Stage 1 kit (#15838) for my 2017 GT convertible, auto. The car will never see a drag strip, or episode of "Pinks", etc. I'm really after a reliable, drivable car much more than maximum power. We use the car for summer road trips, so it needs to be comfortable idling in traffic at 110 deg ambient with the AC on, as well as cold starts from sub-freezing temps (Fall in WI), etc, etc. I plan to install it myself and would prefer the convenience of the Edlebrock tune. I don't want to have to make a dozen trips back and forth to tuner to get it running right. I'd be curious to hear from anyone who has been running the Stage 1 setup (unmodified, straight out of the box) with the Edlebrock tune. Has it been reliable, how long have you had it? How does it drive? Thanks.
 

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I'm considering an Edelbrock Stage 1 kit (#15838) for my 2017 GT convertible, auto. The car will never see a drag strip, or episode of "Pinks", etc. I'm really after a reliable, drivable car much more than maximum power. We use the car for summer road trips, so it needs to be comfortable idling in traffic at 110 deg ambient with the AC on, as well as cold starts from sub-freezing temps (Fall in WI), etc, etc. I plan to install it myself and would prefer the convenience of the Edlebrock tune. I don't want to have to make a dozen trips back and forth to tuner to get it running right. I'd be curious to hear from anyone who has been running the Stage 1 setup (unmodified, straight out of the box) with the Edlebrock tune. Has it been reliable, how long have you had it? How does it drive? Thanks.
I recently upgraded the airbox and tb. still of a 6 rib. honestly I didn't like the EB tune. The whipple box tune is better. this is the consensus. l have a manual and it was a bit herky jerky, but once into the throttle it performed ok enough. It's also tuned far more conservatively than an aftermarket tune. so it is really reliable. Ambient temps won't bother it much, it's going to the be same as cranking it stock. The intercooler bring the good size is keeps the IATs around 30 above ambient. But once you exceed 150 IAT you go into limp mode (on stock EB tune). I think this kit is the one to get, the other 2650 kits ccost more and are performing similarily.
 
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Torinate

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16 convertible here...

Started as a stage 1 as well lol but things kind of morphed a little. I also went straight to Lund for the tune so can’t help that way either. I read that others didn’t like the stock tune and I was already tuned NA with Lund and the nGauge so went that way. In all honesty Lund has this thing dialled in performance wise and it drives smoother than it did brand new off the showroom floor.

People can talk all they want about all the other blowers out there but really the E-Force is the best looking (to me anyways) of the bunch. If you’re after a solid performing car and aren’t concerned to extract the last tenth or two (maybe) then this kit will do you proud!

It’s quiet though... no one will know you’ve got it...

I also installed mine myself. Take your time and follow the book. Get a hand to lift the blower onto the motor (or a pumped up bragging teenager) and you’ll be just fine!

Keep us updated. Good luck!
 

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wsfrazier

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I'm considering an Edelbrock Stage 1 kit (#15838) for my 2017 GT convertible, auto. The car will never see a drag strip, or episode of "Pinks", etc. I'm really after a reliable, drivable car much more than maximum power. We use the car for summer road trips, so it needs to be comfortable idling in traffic at 110 deg ambient with the AC on, as well as cold starts from sub-freezing temps (Fall in WI), etc, etc. I plan to install it myself and would prefer the convenience of the Edlebrock tune. I don't want to have to make a dozen trips back and forth to tuner to get it running right. I'd be curious to hear from anyone who has been running the Stage 1 setup (unmodified, straight out of the box) with the Edlebrock tune. Has it been reliable, how long have you had it? How does it drive? Thanks.
Not sure if you are considering used, but I am probably going to list my Edelbrock setup for sale in the next day or so. I never re-installed since trading my MT82 car in for a 10R80 car. I am either going to keep the car and just all out with a turbo, or sell the car.

Carry on :)
 

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The advantage of the stage 2 is the TB and intake setup. I have it with the 50 state tune and it is perfectly driveable. Some cold-start annoyances that others have, but that's it. Love it. And be sure to do at least a passenger side oil can. I have the UPR.
 

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Not sure if you are considering used, but I am probably going to list my Edelbrock setup for sale in the next day or so. I never re-installed since trading my MT82 car in for a 10R80 car. I am either going to keep the car and just all out with a turbo, or sell the car.

Carry on :)
Turbo sounds sweet what you're thinking about going this route I've been thinking the same as well. I'm interested in going single, but the space issue is a real problem for me, and the front exhaust fook that uglee shyte
 
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wsfrazier

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I'd honestly probably just go cheap and do On3. There are a few local cars with them, and I've helped install one of them, and had no issues so far. To be honest though, I think I'm just going to sell the car.

On the topic of the Edelbrock blower, what is preventing a 2018+ stage 1 kit to install on a gen2 2017 car? Is it just the fuel rails being different due to the HPFP, or something else I'm missing?
 

illtal

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Turbo sounds sweet what you thinking about doing, I'm interested in going single, but the space issue is a real problem for me, and the front exhaust fook that.
I'd honestly probably just go cheap and do On3. There are a few local cars with them, and I've helped install one of them, and had no issues so far. To be honest though, I think I'm just going to sell the car.

On the topic of the Edelbrock blower, what is preventing a 2018+ stage 1 kit to install on a gen2 2017 car? Is it just the fuel rails being different due to the HPFP, or something else I'm missing?
I think the rails are modular, just need to plug the unused ports.
Selling should net a gain in this crazy climate.
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