Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[Semp1]

It's cool bruddah, I wouldnt go 13 lbs on 93 only lol. Boom boom time. I want to get more go go but I need that 8 rib which I'm dreading because it's 2k dollars now.

Timing is everything. Timing can make things “safe“ or “unsafe.”

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[illtal]

Timing is everything. Timing can make things “safe“ or “unsafe.”

@Semp1
I disagree, ignition timing while being a contributor to heat and thus detonation in the way that people typically think of it in terms of ignition advance. But there is a point when too much boost is too much for the octane that is available. Retarding timing is a band-aid, it will marginally reduce the effects of limited octane, but when timing is too aggressively retarded we run back into the heating problem and thus more knock. I've tuned a lot of Hondas back in the day and a
Have seen this a lot. Octane is king. A close second is cylinder cooling. This is why WMI is the way to go when we have nothing but 91/92/93 octane.

In accordance with some of what we are speaking on using the variable cam timing for cylinder fill can also be used to overcome poor octane levels. It's probably a lot more complicated to do that in this manner though.
Edit: this is probably not that effective too because we are heating the intake charge with more boost.

For is 3rd gen guys, DI help a ton with limited octane levels as well. It's incredible to me that we can run these kinds of boost levels on GASOLINE.

Speaking on fueling, I had been developing something for fueling/inactive saddle bag crossover stuff. Mostly for my own entertainment, but there are tons of awesome solutions if people are willing to experiment.

I can see why companies dont want to put a lot of effort into these kinds of things though.

 

[Semp1]

@Semp1
I disagree, ignition timing while being a contributor to heat and thus detonation in the way that people typically think of it in terms of ignition advance. But there is a point when too much boost is too much for the octane that is available. Retarding timing is a band-aid, it will marginally reduce the effects of limited octane, but when timing is too aggressively retarded we run back into the heating problem and thus more knock. I've tuned a lot of Hondas back in the day and a
Have seen this a lot. Octane is king. A close second is cylinder cooling. This is why WMI is the way to go when we have nothing but 91/92/93 octane.

In accordance with some of what we are speaking on using the variable cam timing for cylinder fill can also be used to overcome poor octane levels. It's probably a lot more complicated to do that in this manner though.
Edit: this is probably not that effective too because we are heating the intake charge with more boost.

For is 3rd gen guys, DI help a ton with limited octane levels as well. It's incredible to me that we can run these kinds of boost levels on GASOLINE.

Speaking on fueling, I had been developing something for fueling/inactive saddle bag crossover stuff. Mostly for my own entertainment, but there are tons of awesome solutions if people are willing to experiment.

I can see why companies dont want to put a lot of effort into these kinds of things though.

When I say timing obviously I’m not saying go to 17psi. But a good example is whipple‘s stock tune is very close to 13-14psi on 93 for gen 3’s. Which is why it’s not always apples to apples. Timing creates spark knock. Tuning less timing means you can get away with more boost. Especially with a larger pulley

 

[illtal]

When I say timing obviously I’m not saying go to 17psi. But a good example is whipple‘s stock tune for example give it conservative timing and I believe is very close to 13-14psi on 93 for gen 3’s. Which is why it’s not always apples to apples.

I got you: I have hear some stuff about the way it works but I never sought out how the tune works for myself.
How cool does the 5th gen run in comparison to the TVS kits? Those tunes have got to be really good. These EB tunes have cause a member or two a few engines. I for one never liked the EB tune. I've heard of 12 PSI TVS breaking gen 3 engines. I believe the Stage 2 EB is 13 PSI as well.
I'm a firm believer in a cooler charge is better for power than more boost to a certain extent.

 

[Semp1]

I got you: I have hear some stuff about the way it works but I never sought out how the tune works for myself.
How cool does the 5th gen run in comparison to the TVS kits? Those tunes have got to be really good. These EB tunes have cause a member or two a few engines. I for one never liked the EB tune. I've heard of 12 PSI TVS breaking gen 3 engines. I believe the Stage 2 EB is 13 PSI as well.
I'm a firm believer in a cooler charge is better for power than more boost to a certain extent.

I don’t really know why anyone is using EB tunes. I went to an extremely well known shop had them tune the car. I had an issue with the TB and bypass valve which is mechanical. I had EB replace both thats currently being taken care of. But I have heard the EB tunes in general are terrible.

 

[illtal]

just read that the whipple stage 2 is only 1 PSI more than stage 1 which is similar to the EB stage two. stage one should be 10-11 lbs and stage 2 11-12 lbs still haven't heard about too many failures there. I have lund tune. I love it, would recommend to any one, 4 revisions and dialed in.

 

[Torinate]

I completely agree with the tuning aspect! I too am running a Lund tune and couldn’t be happier. I remember discussions with them prior to even doing the tune and making sure I had the right equipment and going over goals with the car. For me, I’m not chasing a number and track time is farther down on the list. Most important goal for me was street manners and longevity. I know we left some on the table as far as all out power but the car drives better than it did stock. But, car easily rips 10s at the track. Sure, I could likely drop a tenth two with a more aggressive tune, but it’s a cruiser. I think anyone spending the coin for a supercharger - regardless of which one - one of the most important things if not thee most important thing is a solid, safe and reliable tune. Whipple may be closest, but I think most of the major players in tuning can still make nice improvements in both horsepower and reliability.

 

[Semp1]

I completely agree with the tuning aspect! I too am running a Lund tune and couldn’t be happier. I remember discussions with them prior to even doing the tune and making sure I had the right equipment and going over goals with the car. For me, I’m not chasing a number and track time is farther down on the list. Most important goal for me was street manners and longevity. I know we left some on the table as far as all out power but the car drives better than it did stock. But, car easily rips 10s at the track. Sure, I could likely drop a tenth two with a more aggressive tune, but it’s a cruiser. I think anyone spending the coin for a supercharger - regardless of which one - one of the most important things if not thee most important thing is a solid, safe and reliable tune. Whipple may be closest, but I think most of the major players in tuning can still make nice improvements in both horsepower and reliability.

Personally my issue with Lund is simply if there is an issue mechanically speaking they won’t be able to figure it out or actually help you. They can look at the data logs, and make suggestions on what they think, but if they can’t figure it out your screwed. Which is the main reason a super reliable shop with a well known tuner is always recommended. I’m sure Lund is great when things go flawlessly but let’s be honest that’s not always the case, it seems especially with the stage 2 Edelbrock kits and now you’re stuck with this tuner you paid for that really can’t do much until you go and either figure out and fix the issue yourself or pay a shop to figure out and fix the issue. To me that’s a recipe for frustration I’m not willing to chance. Listen, for an NA tune I’m sure Lund for an average dude is more than fine. Go for it. But to me, Boost? No thank you. There’s a reason Lund suggest 1050’s only and certain psi (usually 10-11). It’s not gospel it’s an easier injector to tune for, because it’s so good realistically and because that’s what they tune the most and because they don’t want to blow your car up if they decide to give you 12.5psi. Lund I’m sure is great and has been to you. Me, personally, you spend all this money on a blower the next amount of money spent should be at the absolute best shop and tuner you can afford. If Lund is seriously a tuner you want to use then you should probably go to an associated shop who has a very good reputation and use Lund through them.

 

[illtal]

Personally my issue with Lund is simply if there is an issue mechanically speaking they won’t be able to figure it out or actually help you. They can look at the data logs, and make suggestions on what they think, but if they can’t figure it out your screwed. Which is the main reason a super reliable shop with a well known tuner is always recommended. I’m sure Lund is great when things go flawlessly but let’s be honest that’s not always the case, it seems especially with the stage 2 Edelbrock kits and now you’re stuck with this tuner you paid for that really can’t do much until you go and either figure out and fix the issue yourself or pay a shop to figure out and fix the issue. To me that’s a recipe for frustration I’m not willing to chance. Listen, for an NA tune I’m sure Lund for an average dude is more than fine. Go for it. But to me, Boost? No thank you. There’s a reason Lund suggest 1050’s only and certain psi (usually 10-11). It’s not gospel it’s easire injector to tune for, because it’s so good realistically and because that’s what they tune the most and because they don’t want to blow your car up if they decide to give you 12.5psi. Lund I’m sure is great and has been to you But me, personally, you spend all this money on a blower the next amount of money spent should be at the absolute best shop and tuner you can afford. If Lund is seriously a tuner you want to use then you should probably go to an associated shop who has a very good reputation and use Lund through them.

I self installed: for those of us than can do these kinds of jobs it's the best way to go because you know everything about the car and how it what was done to it. I don't trust shops that much but I did find a shop I would submit anyone to. The other shop while I don't have direct experience with them I would not bat an eye to take my car there. Last thing, I don't believe in dyno tuning all that much. It seems like to me that's a real quick way to flatten a wallet for no reason.

 

[Semp1]

I self installed: for those of us than can do these kinds of jobs it's the best way to go because you know everything about the car and how it what was done to it. I don't trust shops that much but I did find a shop I would submit anyone to. The other shop while I don't have direct experience with them I would not bat an eye to take my car there. Last thing, I don't believe in dyno tuning all that much. It seems like to me that's a real quick way to flatten a wallet for no reason.

A dyno is simply a tool. To me great tuners, tune on the street and fine tune with the dyno.

 

[carguy231]

Working to lower underhood heat buildup, especially right above the Airraid box. Verus Engineering heat extractors installed, just trimmed the insulator pad today. Need my edging to clean it up, but of course I can't find it in my garage.... LOL

 

[yellowstangatl]

Those of you with fuel systems, do you have a diagram of how the fuel lines are routed? Are you feeding into the HPFP anf the rails from a Y or something else?

 

[illtal]

Those of you with fuel systems, do you have a diagram of how the fuel lines are routed? Are you feeding into the HPFP anf the rails from a Y or something else?

There are multiple configurations for the fuel lines, you can do single or dual regulator as well. Pump - Line- filter- regulator- y block to rail - hi pressure tee off of rail this kind of configuration must run 58 PSI base pressure. Anyhow your tuner will let you know how they like for it to be set up and/or you tell them what you bought.

Here is Lethal's Return setup with dual regulators.
I don't particularly like this setup but it does work and it prevents needing to run a dual return/yblock situation.

 

[SVO MkII]

I'm considering an Edelbrock Stage 1 kit (#15838) for my 2017 GT convertible, auto. The car will never see a drag strip, or episode of "Pinks", etc. I'm really after a reliable, drivable car much more than maximum power. We use the car for summer road trips, so it needs to be comfortable idling in traffic at 110 deg ambient with the AC on, as well as cold starts from sub-freezing temps (Fall in WI), etc, etc. I plan to install it myself and would prefer the convenience of the Edlebrock tune. I don't want to have to make a dozen trips back and forth to tuner to get it running right. I'd be curious to hear from anyone who has been running the Stage 1 setup (unmodified, straight out of the box) with the Edlebrock tune. Has it been reliable, how long have you had it? How does it drive? Thanks.

 

[illtal]

I'm considering an Edelbrock Stage 1 kit (#15838) for my 2017 GT convertible, auto. The car will never see a drag strip, or episode of "Pinks", etc. I'm really after a reliable, drivable car much more than maximum power. We use the car for summer road trips, so it needs to be comfortable idling in traffic at 110 deg ambient with the AC on, as well as cold starts from sub-freezing temps (Fall in WI), etc, etc. I plan to install it myself and would prefer the convenience of the Edlebrock tune. I don't want to have to make a dozen trips back and forth to tuner to get it running right. I'd be curious to hear from anyone who has been running the Stage 1 setup (unmodified, straight out of the box) with the Edlebrock tune. Has it been reliable, how long have you had it? How does it drive? Thanks.

I recently upgraded the airbox and tb. still of a 6 rib. honestly I didn't like the EB tune. The whipple box tune is better. this is the consensus. l have a manual and it was a bit herky jerky, but once into the throttle it performed ok enough. It's also tuned far more conservatively than an aftermarket tune. so it is really reliable. Ambient temps won't bother it much, it's going to the be same as cranking it stock. The intercooler bring the good size is keeps the IATs around 30 above ambient. But once you exceed 150 IAT you go into limp mode (on stock EB tune). I think this kit is the one to get, the other 2650 kits ccost more and are performing similarily.

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