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illtal
Well-Known Member
So there will be several posts. First of all I pulley down to 3.15". More on that later. first the spacers. I have ambients around +30F. That's about the efficiency of the stock HE. However after installing this plastic, on a cold engine it takes quite a while to get to +30F (I'm talking about 10+ mins). Also in stop and go traffic on a warm engine, heat soaking is about the same. But recovery is a lot quicker. Iats can get back to +30F fairly quickly.
It does make the SC sit noticably higher in the engine bay. I did upgrade my belt to the RPM belt 82.53" I think if anyone is interested I'll get the pn for them. The unit does still sit under the hood without any modifications.
Regarding the 3.15 pulley. I'm on 93 for now. Tuned by Lund. They advised me to take off the 3.15 because at certain RPMs there is 0 knockR. There was never any +knockR but higher in the rev range there is -knockR. For the uninitiated. KnockR is Timing retard due to knocking. + Numbers are retarded timing by whatever the number is and vice versa for - knockR.
Basically, I'm at the edge of 93 octane's effectiveness. But with the methanol on I get +7 degrees of ignition advance throw most of the rev range. So I was told not to let it run dry. I'm using a 25gph nozzle. It literally sucking this stuff down pretty quickly so I have adjust what psi this engages at. The car pulls very hard with this stuff.
I drove the car approximately 1500 miles in the last two days. I went through 6-7 gallons of methanol. I do have a "heavy" go foot.
Placement of the nozzle is now located in the old aspirator hole on the elbow. The aspirator is now gone. Single vaccum hose on the brake booster.
It's dark I'll do some detailed pix in the am. I may put up the methanol log later as well too.
illtal
Well-Known Member
So there will be several posts. First of all I pulley down to 3.15". More on that later. first the spacers. I have ambients around +30F. That's about the efficiency of the stock HE. However after installing this plastic, on a cold engine it takes quite a while to get to +30F (I'm talking about 10+ mins). Also in stop and go traffic on a warm engine, heat soaking is about the same. But recovery is a lot quicker. Iats can get back to +30F fairly quickly.
It does make the SC sit noticably higher in the engine bay. I did upgrade my belt to the RPM belt 82.53" I think if anyone is interested I'll get the pn for them. The unit does still sit under the hood without any modifications.
Regarding the 3.15 pulley. I'm on 93 for now. Tuned by Lund. They advised me to take off the 3.15 because at certain RPMs there is 0 knockR. There was never any +knockR but higher in the rev range there is -knockR. For the uninitiated. KnockR is Timing retard due to knocking. + Numbers are retarded timing by whatever the number is and vice versa for - knockR.
Basically, I'm at the edge of 93 octane's effectiveness. But with the methanol on I get +7 degrees of ignition advance throw most of the rev range. So I was told not to let it run dry. I'm using a 25gph nozzle. It literally sucking this stuff down pretty quickly so I have adjust what psi this engages at. The car pulls very hard with this stuff.
I drove the car approximately 1500 miles in the last two days. I went through 6-7 gallons of methanol. I do have a "heavy" go foot.
Placement of the nozzle is now located in the old aspirator hole on the elbow. The aspirator is now gone. Single vaccum hose on the brake booster.
It's dark I'll do some detailed pix in the am. I may put up the methanol log later as well too.
carguy231
Well-Known Member
For some reason I thought you were spraying into a spacer just after the TB. I didn't realize you had a spacer under the SC assembly or that you would spray before the TB... Unfortunately for me, with my daily driver here in SoCal there is no 93 available and I don't want to go to E85. I'm still looking for a [realitvely] safe way to NOT cut timing due to the increased IAT levels...
Torinate
Well-Known Member
Curious. Just how high are your IATs? I’ve thought about doing meth injection many times but haven’t yet. I’m not having any IAT issues whatsoever though. Of course, I’m in Canada, but I’ve had it to the track in 100* VERY high humidity and even then IATs were still in check and nowhere near enough to pull timing. I run 94 octane pump (highest we have here). No e85 in Canada unless it’s by the barrel, which for me is just too much of an inconvenience. Maybe if my car was a more of a track car, but mine is basically a weekend fun cruising car that only gets to the track on rentals when the tech guys are a little more lenient with a convertible running good.
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carguy231
Well-Known Member
Typically it reads 20-30 degrees F over ambient on the dash. And it is hot and dry here and only 'california' 91 octane available unless I run really expensive fuel, which isn't practical for a daily driver.
Torinate
Well-Known Member
Ok. So basically that’s what I see as well. 20* over ambient. But it goes down during my run. Usually ends up 10* over ambient give or take depending on exactly what ambient is. Same as my coolant temp. Stock thermostat but usually starts at 192* and ends the run closer to mid 180s. Is this similar to what yous are seeing?
Torinate
Well-Known Member
I know head temp is real and measured. The coolant temp is calculated. The nGauge monitors coolant. Head temp is usually around 7-12 different I find on mine.
illtal
Well-Known Member
on the stock TB the adapter is bigger which is where i had it before. with it here it works a bit differently.
I don't get any timing cut, there just isn't overhead with a 3.15" pulley and 93 octane. Meth will definitely give you that overhead which is why they told me I can run it like this on 93. It's like having torco with cylinder cooling. During a long pull most times the IAT2 goes down, there have been instances I see it stay the same.
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brianbr
Well-Known Member
Has anyone opened up their stock grill or using an aftermarket? Mine runs 15 over ambient on the freeway on 100+ degree days. I also removed the weatherstrip at the rear of the hood.
Semp1
Well-Known Member
I have an Edelbrock 2650TVS on my 18 and I have an issue with a very weak start rarely stalling at startup and requiring to hit the ignition button a second time. I use the bigger 103mm tb and air box from Edelbrock off the stage 2 on my stage 1. I am using LU47’s as an upgrade to the stock 27lb injectors that the stage 1 has no issue working with. I am sticking to pump 93. From what I understand my edelbrock bypass valve on the blower might be opening and closing slightly delayed causing this issue. But I was also wondering if the cars not getting enough fuel on start up from the LU47’s. I will be checking if a revision to the tune and 1050’s fix the issue. But the LU47’s are absolutely enough injector for the car at the power level I'm at when at any speed or rpm. That my tuner has told me they are sure of. The tune has over 50 hours and months of time put into it and the shop is one of the best in the area I’m wondering if anyone has had this issue because at this point it has to be mechanical. And I’m thinking there is going to be at least 1 part that needs a warranty replacement. TB maybe? Bypass valve (dump valve)? Or injector? Wondering Opinions? Maybe all 3. Btw car drives amazing otherwise. extremely fast. IAT’s are great, and you wouldn’t know the car is 700+ wheel on 93 when cruising
illtal
Well-Known Member
Didn't want the MAF wash with the grille. but I have them Upper and lower. are you still running the shutter?Has anyone opened up their stock grill or using an aftermarket? Mine runs 15 over ambient on the freeway on 100+ degree days. I also removed the weatherstrip at the rear of the hood.
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